Okay, I'll try to answer each post the best I can:


Think of resetting the PCM as relating to a computer. If you Reboot (i.e. Clear your codes) your computer will perform a POST. But if you actually shut down your computer and leave it sit for a few minutes. When your Restart, your will encounter CMOS (BIOS) settings and a POST. Similarly, JUST clearing your codes only clears the code and freeze frame data for setting that code and any pending codes. However, by disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes (at a minimum), all stored adaptive memory, codes, freeze frame data, etc will be cleared. So, when you're dealing with an adaptive issue (whether fuel, transaxle, etc) clear its history to return to a factory baseline. If there is wear, it will slowly correct for that and provide a more accurate condition.

When you say the "Number 5 plug didn't look like it was firing" what do you mean. Is it wet or dry? These are brand new plugs that you just installed. Just curious could you pull a compression test on that cylinder? That misfire MAY (MAY) indicate a valve problem... And if you're having unburnt fuel or air, then THAT will definitely give you a lean (read high presence of unburnt oxygen) condition at the oxygen sensor.

I hate to say it, but money spent on a MAF will probably be a waste... When you disconnected the MAF in an earlier post, and the car shut off. The MAF was doing its job. You were in a limp strategy with the MAF as PRIMARY control of the A/F system, the 02s were not in control, but in open loop with the MISFIRE condition.

 

From what I've encountered with technician's and oxygen sensors -- it's the first thing they condemn. Sometimes correctly, but more times than not, it's NOT the culprit.

However, in your case, with 130k, I hope they weren't the "original" ones that came with the car.

 

An 02/06 Marelli "yellow" label with still need the ETM software update. Looking at the software coding, the new update will compensate for some cleanliness issues (read as wear and carbon buildup). Other than that, it's more a PR campaign for Volvo and an attempt to see how much costs they're looking at if NHTSA hands down a recall.

 

Starting here. If I encountered these codes, I would: Check the MISFIRES FIRST! 0300, shows that a random misfire occurred. 0305, the PCM was able to definitively pinpoint which cylinder was misfiring. With this misfire, as I mention in another post, will generate a lean, 0171, condition. Solving for the misfire will clear out the lean condition, IMO. The 0103, is a MAF condition that VERY WELL may have been lying dormant, until you encountered the MISFIRE. If it (the MAF) didn't have primary control, until the MISFIRE condition disabled the oxygen sensors, you may have never known that it was weak (needing cleaning).

Pull the compression on cylinder 5. If good, check the wiring to the coil. If good, even though it's new, swap in another coil from bank 1 (cylinder 1-3).

Let us know what you find on cyl 5, etc.

 

My next step would be a compression test and a wet compression test.
Then would decide from there.

If you keep getting a Missfire code something is wrong somewhere.

 

OK, Monday night I shall check the compresion on #5 and all cylinders. Will have to get different gauge. Mine will not reach down to the plugs. If the MAF does come, I'll make sure not to open it until we see compression results.

Thanks for the explanation, Coastal.

 

This could be the last couple of days to play with this before it either goes to the dealer or a good local shop that I trust. I need to get this car on the road. Called a buddy if he had a gauge to check compression, mine does reach down into the head. Looks like I shall have to purchase one. If you could provide the protocol for this procedure much appreciated.

Thanks

 

Remove the sparkplugs and screw the hose for the guage into the plug hole.
It is fairly easy once the Guage connected to the car try to pull the fuse for the Fuel pump.

Then turn the engine over try to count how many times you let it turn ove for.
Then look at the Guage and see what the pressure is.
Record it and go to the next one and do the same all the way down.

 

Mark, be careful around the coil/plug boots if you only pull the FP fuse! I'd suggest you remove Fuse #6 (eng compartment-15amp). It controls the injectors and the PCM, so the coils won't be hot when you turn her over.

Pay close attention to the first crank's compression reading for each cylinder and make sure that you crank each cylinder the SAME number of times to reflect a true comparison. This is a DRY compression. The WET that Tech suggested will usually verify if you have a bad ring issue by using a tablespoon of motor oil.

Again, you're looking for a SUBSTANTIAL variance on cylinder number 5.

 

Well before work this morning I throw more money at the car. Disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and installed the brand new MAF. Started car, ran at idle about 725 RPM. Eight min. latter drove down the road, less than 1/4 mile. Idle drops to less than 600-500 range. Just got back into driveway and stalls. It will start right up but idle is hunting. No codes, but I do get a PSSSS, interesting. I have the gauge to check compression but no time today, hopefully tomorrow. Interesting how it runs good till warm then hits the wall. Sure seems like a electrical problem to me.
I'll keep all informed.

Regards
Mark L

 

Towed car to dealer. Just don't have time for this. Dealer said all was fixed, replaced two coil paks. Went to pick it up yesterday, 437.00, paid. Go to drive car away------SAME PROBLEM! No acceleration unless you rev the engine way up into the 2K region. Frustrating. Shall call service manager tomorrow.

 

FIX and disgusted wouldn't go hand-in-hand, if it were true. Enough said?

PS The reason I mentioned swapping a KNOWN good coil out with the code-referenced one was to avoid an unnecessary expense. Good luck with your endeavor, Mark.

"Who knows the value of a gem better than the man holding the gem?"

 

I guess I should have explained more to the point, my reference to disgusted with the eventual cost of the repair. As always, appreciate any comments.

Regards

Mark L

 

I talked to the service rep today. Asked the cost for a reconditioned head plus installation, 3K. Spoke with a shop near me to rebuild the head. His price was around 1300.00 depending on how many valves needed work. My question is how difficult is it to remove and replace a head on a 2.8 Turbo engine?

Thanks
Mark L.

 

Bad #5 cylinder. What to do next?

 

Purchased a used 2.8L engine guaranteed for the life of the car. $1778.00 plus $1000.00 installation. dealer wanted $3000 to replace the head.

 

Dealeships are expensive but effective. Volvo dealeships are expensive.

 

That's laughable! "Effective" ??? At what? They just sold "Ramp" TWO potentially unneeded ignition coils and told him that his car was FIXED...

Sorry, I can't agree with that!

 

I understand your point, but whenever I've had an issue they have resolved it quickly and effectively. I know that it doesn't always work out that way.

 

Just for further knowledge. An engine swap time is 17 hrs. Head replacement is 22 hrs. I get lifetime guarantee with the used engine, 82K on the clock. This is a no brainer. Volvo won't even sell a car with a life time guarantee. Used engine from Erie Vo Vo, NY. Everyone here has been very helpful, Thank you.