I have been watching the thread of my93vr4, "... Rebuilding Motor". The shop I had arranged to replace my valves isn't going to work on the car. I have decided to do the work 'myself', with the help of a friend who is a professional mechanic, but has not worked on Volvos. The damage supposedly occurred (I was not there) as dealer mechanic was starting the car - and it didn't actually turn over. Dealer mechanic believes all I need to do is replace any damaged valves (and gaskets, bolts, etc.). The timing belt and tensioner were replaced recently, and maybe have 100-150 miles on them at most.

Any suggestions, tips, or special tools you would suggest?

I plan on sourcing parts and tools using the "Resources" thread, and I guess I'll need a subscription to AllDataDIY.

Finally, the obvious question: Is this something I should attempt at all?

Thank you.

2000 S80 T6 (built 1999), 110K miles, purchased Sept 2007 - Replaced: both turbos, control arms, ball joint, axle, roller control arm stop, timing belt and tensioner, ... ..?

(Edit for Spelling, & "Finally...")

 

It is kind of a pain. The valves are set so low in the head.
Compressing the spring is a pain coming out and going in.

 

in order to replace valves you have to take your head out and take to shop who rebuild engines, they will replace for you its not that expencive and they will check all your valves if they in good condition

 

Thank you for the information. I have checked into rebuilding the heads, and they are estimating 200-300 USD per head. Interesting note; the Volvo dealer service guy tells me that this is not a tough DIY job, but the companies I have called about rebuilding the head think I am insane – they say lots of specific (expensive) Volvo tools are required, and many, many things can go horribly wrong. I called some local independent shops, I am quoted $1800 to $2000 for labor alone (20 to 22.5 hours); that is if the shop is willing to do the work at all (most don’t seem to want to do this kind of work on this type of car). If I don’t do the work myself I am looking at a long tow to the closest real city. At least I’d also be closer to the rebuild shops. Is my dealer overly optimistic?

 

Well, it's certainly not a typical do-it-yourselfer's repair, that's for sure, but if you have a professional mechanic helping you (or you helping him) and he is on the ball, you should be fine.

The main thing that I know one needs to do generically in such a job on an overhead camengine is to be sure to mark the rotation positions of the cam and crankwith some kind of marker (say grease pencil) to index them, *before* removing the timing belt that locks them together.This way you can be sure that the relative rotational positions of the crankshaft and camshaft get returned to exactly the same spots you left them (I assume they are sync'd now). There is not a lot of magic in that, but it needs to be done correctly or you will smash the new valves when you fire it back up again.

Any competent mechanic who should be doing such a job will know this though.

 

if you have volvo 6 sylinder it have only 1 head thats why you call inline six,why machanic told you 200to300 per head?

 

Thank you for your responses and your patience. My friend was on vacation, I may have been jumping the gun. You are correct, he has the project under control, and I am only responsible for simple manual labor, providing food and beer, and writing the checks for parts. We should start after the holidays. I’ll take pictures and post them if anyone is interested. You are right my93vr4, I am not really sure why I said ‘per head’. It is possible this car has driven me mad, it wouldn't surprise me at all.