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removing fuel rail 99 s80

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Old 09-06-2009, 09:37 AM
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Default removing fuel rail 99 s80

Hello,

I am in the process of replacing the oil trap on my 99 s80 and I am having trouble figuring out how to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. I only see one line that feeds the rail. I have pressed the shraeder valve and there is no pressure which I found to be strange. I assumed there would be pressure. The car has been sitting for 14 hours if that means anything. Anyway, can anyone help me with this issue. The line comes up from underneath the intake manifold. I can just barely see the other end and I can get my hands on it but I don't think I could get a tool in the space. Does the line come off at the fuel rail?

Thanks
George
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:45 AM
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hi.. all u gotta do is unbolt the fuel rail and pull it twards u (fwd) and get the right size torx bit in there and undo the fuel rail cover. that cover is holding the pressure regulator all the injectors and your fuel line. once the cover is off just pop out the fuel line and put the cover back on to keep the injectors and regulator in place durring your work. if u cant get the torx screws easy enough just use a pair of needlenose vise grips to hold the bit and turn the screws
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by silencecom
hi.. all u gotta do is unbolt the fuel rail and pull it twards u (fwd) and get the right size torx bit in there and undo the fuel rail cover. that cover is holding the pressure regulator all the injectors and your fuel line. once the cover is off just pop out the fuel line and put the cover back on to keep the injectors and regulator in place durring your work. if u cant get the torx screws easy enough just use a pair of needlenose vise grips to hold the bit and turn the screws
Thanks for the reply. Are these the small bolts under the rail?
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:08 AM
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Your tip was great thank you very much. I will continue on the path to the oil trap.

Thanks again.

george
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:50 AM
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when u go to remove the intake i found it was easier to jack up the front end and remove the drip pan cause theres a fitting on the bottom of the intake that has 3 lines going into it.. i just used a long extension and a universal joint to reach up from the bottom and undo it.. there just wasnt enough room for me from the top.. if u do this wrap tape around the uv joint to keep the socket from flopping around.. then leave the throttle body on the intake and just disconnect the harness that goes from it to somewhere down near the bottom front of the engine.. it should be a big grey plug. make sure u get the new seals for the pcv box cause they or it will be needing replaced. when i did it i just ordered the box and everything for it. i also replaced any weathered vacuume/turbo lines.
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:25 AM
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I got down to the oil trap but It looks like I am going to have to remove the Alternator and the AC pump. I cant get at he nut on the left hand side. Any suggestions?
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 12:28 PM
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when i did it i just removed all that stuff.. its not that bad.. alternator comes out pretty easily just put a wrench on the belt tensioner with the boxed end and then used another wrench as an extension and just release the tension... draw a picture of how the belt goes first.. for the power steering pump just unbolt it but leave everything hooked up and just move it or tie it to the side.. same the the ac compressor.. 4 bolts hold that in. this one is kind of a pain cause once u undo the bolts a couple of them wont have enough room to come out. then just take the bolts out for the big bracket that holds all that stuff and you will have clear access to the pcv box..

i have also heard that some people leave all that stuff and brake the box wich gets it out but u will have to replace the box and i dont know about the bolt thats still in there. i would just take the stuff out.
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 01:17 PM
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Before I saw your post I decided to get creative. I broke the box off and removed the bold. I put the new box on but replaced the hex head bolt with a machine screw with an philips head. A long narrow screw driver was able to tighten it up snug. I know it is a little mickey mouse but it saved me a lot of time.
 
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Old 09-07-2009, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gvpierce
Before I saw your post I decided to get creative. I broke the box off and removed the bold. I put the new box on but replaced the hex head bolt with a machine screw with an philips head. A long narrow screw driver was able to tighten it up snug. I know it is a little mickey mouse but it saved me a lot of time.

You can grind a notch in the alternator bracket to put the oil trap back on. The local volvo guy, as well as guys here, do it. The newer model s80's have it come like that already. Otherwise, you have to buy a tool to get it out. I got a grinder from Home Depot that went in my drill and went to work. But, it allows you to put the oil trap back on really snug.
 
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:34 AM
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Default Removing fuel rail 99 s80

Torque-suffused pull across the rev band with the new D5 churning out 205 hp (at 4000 rpms) and 420 Nm of torque (between 2900 and 5000 rpms). The D5 is made out of aluminum, which dispenses heat more evenly, and temperature control is improved with a new transverse-cooling technology.
The efficiency numbers are impressive too, with CO2 emissions at 164g/km and fuel-economy of 45.6 mpg (UK), or 6.2 liters/100km, for the full-sized S80 sedan.
The D5 took 3 years to develop and it is meant to keep Volvo competitive in the premium brand segment, where automakers are continuously improving fuel-efficiency through new technologies.






dsl isp
plus size strapless bra
 
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