This is a very tough decision for me to make financially and somewhat emotionally, but I really would like everyon's opinion if I should just trade my car in for another Volvo...

Here are the codes that I have on the car currently. I guess my question would be: Is there something on the car that is causing all of these errors, and / or could they all be fixed by replacing a fuse?

ABS: No fault found.
AUM-41FF: Amplifier, sub - antenna Signal Missing; DTC (What does that mean?) is found not active.
CCM-003: Fan motor passenger compartment temperature sensor Faulty signal; DTC is found not active.
CEM-1A5D: Communication with the ETM control module Signal missing; DTC is found not active.
CEM-6A03: Door locked left rear signal too low. DTC is found not active.
DDM-0022: Power window hall sensor 1or 2 faulty signal. DTC is found not active.
DDM-003F: Control, door mirror signal too high; DTC is found not active.
DIM: No Fault Found
ECM-1100: Outside Temperature sensor - signal too low; DTC is found active.
ECM-2910: Front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 2 heating - signal missing; DTC is found active.
ECM-2A0A: Rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 1-Signal missing;DTC is found not active.
ECM-2A2A: Rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 1, heating - signal missing. DTC is found active.
ECM-430D: Leak diagnostic, minor leak- DTC is found not active.
ECM-5000: A/C pressure sensor - signal missing; DTC is found not active.
ECM-91A7: Throttle position (TP) - faulty control; DTC is found not active.
ECM-91F0: Throttle position (TP) - faulty current; DTC is found not active.
ETM: No Fault Found (I think this is a bit odd, so I think the car maybe confused on this one. LOL)
PDM: No Fault Found
PSM: No Fault Found
REM: No Fault Found
SRS: No Fault Found
SWM: No Fault Found
TCM: No Fault Found
UEM-0004: Siren Communication Fault; DTC is found not active.

Any help with this would be great. Even if it was put into lamen's terms for me. It seems pretty easy to understand, but if I had a little bit more info on these it would help a great deal! :-)

Thanks in advance! :-D

 

I find it hard to believe that all those sensors failed at once. I would look at a fault in the main computer module. If you in fact have all those codes I would definitely get rid of the car.

 

I posted this thread also on Matthew's Volvo site and one of the guys on there said the following:

"When computers play up the first suspects are alternator (can be charging fine but not providing clean power to the electrical system) and cabling. Many S80 alternators have caused diabolical electrical faults due to the high number of computers in the S80.

Remove and check each battery power cable for corrosion at mounting points ( transmission earth, alternator mount and where the + cables meet at the large fuse box) Check your battery grounds where they mounts for corrosion. If these all check out replace the alternator regardless of charging voltage. It's not until you place a car on a scope that you see whether there is clean DC power supplied."

I had the battery and alternator tested at O'Riley and AutoZone. They both tested the battery with the engine off. AutoZone would not even touch the Alternator because they said that my battery was dead. Their system said that my battery was at 0.80 volts. So I immediately went to O'Riley's and their machine read 12.57 volts and then we tested the alternator with the car on, and I had turned off every imaginable electrical system that I can turn off and it read 12.57 and 30 AMPs. I was having issues with the throttle as I was pulling into the parking lot of AutoZone, so is there a possibility that their reading was correct? Also when I went to O'Riley's, the car was working pretty well. I am going to double and triple check all of the connections and failed wires. Then I am going to get an alternator.

Most of these issues I have had for a while (the smaller less significant codes like the amplifier and the door mirror). I have even replaced the main computer already (in 2009), so I am going to try fixing the alternator first and then determine what to do from there.

 

Started you should get about 13 - 13.9 volts.