Volvo S80 A performance sedan that offers top notch luxury, outstanding handling and so much more.

Timing belt alignment

  #1  
Old 10-04-2013, 02:33 PM
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Unhappy Timing belt alignment

Just got through installing a new belt on my 2002 S80 T6. It started ok, but was anemic, plus check engine light came on. Diagnostic says the cam and crank are out of position. I'm not real surprised. Everything I could see online and in alldatadiy said to look for a mark in between the cogs on the crankshaft pulley. Well, there's no mark there, but there is a raised ridge visible on the outside of the crankshaft pulley. Also the mark on the block was not like I was expecting. What I found was a raised ridge marking which looks like a wide shaped U with the left "leg" longer than the right hand "leg". I appeared to me before I took the old belt off that the timing mark (with the other ones on the exhaust and intake lined up with their corresponding mark on the upper timing cover) was just inside the left "leg", so that's where I made sure it was lined up when I put the new belt on. Obviously that is close, but wrong. Before I dig back into this thing, does anyone know how this configuration on the crankshaft is supposed to be lined up? I am presuming the crankshaft needs to be lined up further right toward the center of the U? Many thanks for any help.
 
  #2  
Old 10-04-2013, 05:41 PM
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I Found this Photo while trying to do my timing belt if this will help.
This is the link if you want more info:
http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/4s2q...03-s80-t6.html

 

Last edited by grimmeute; 10-04-2013 at 05:50 PM. Reason: wrong link
  #3  
Old 10-04-2013, 07:18 PM
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Default That's helpful

This photo shows exactly what I am looking at. I still don't see the marks described as between the teeth of the pulley, but I am presuming the alignment can be done with the center of the two raised "bumps" on the flange. What I'm trying to determine is if there is a mark I'm not seeing on the block or is it that left "leg" of the raised thing on the block. I'm thinking there must be a faint mark on the block I'm not seeing. I'll get a mirror from HF tomorrow. I must be close because I can turn the engine through twice without hitting anything, and the engine starts. I'll also try and take a photo when I get it off. It may be Monday. With all the mistakes I've made the first time around I think I'll be able to do this blindfolded the next time around. Anyway, appreciate the help.
 
  #4  
Old 10-05-2013, 04:41 AM
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Best way to get a clear view of it is though the wheel well, you have to look at it as you would a gun sight.
 
  #5  
Old 10-05-2013, 11:56 AM
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Not a mark on the block. It will be the left leg of the "U" looking deal to line it up.
I am doing a T-belt change and idler pulley right now and that is the info that i have dug up on the crank mark. My crank doesn't have the 2 small score marks either so i had to pull the crank serpentine pulley to see the raised bump which is the bottom red arrow in that picture.
 
  #6  
Old 10-06-2013, 11:12 PM
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Thanks Grim. That is what I'm thinking. It's really too bad I have to take off the 30mm crankshaft center nut in order to remove theserpentine belt pulley so I can see the mark. I don't have air tools, so I have to use the car starter bump method. That's no big deal, and works fine. However, I'm supposed to retighten that nut to 300nm? There just "ain't no way". The only way I know to hold the crankshaft in position while I tighten that center nut is to slide an extension or other long bar between two of the bolts on the vibration damper (with nuts on so as not to screw up the threads), but that kind of pressure (not to mention my 1/2 inch torque wrench maxes out at 203nm) is likely to break one of the bolts. I guess I'll just aim for 203nm plus a little and hope that it's enough. Any suggestions?
 
  #7  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:57 AM
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I just did my timing belt as well. If you put your finger behind the crank pulley you can feel the notch. With a small mirror you could probably get a view of it as well. Pulling that pulley would be a last resort for me.
 
  #8  
Old 10-07-2013, 10:19 AM
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I almost never line up everything unless the belt has slipped or broken on a car. I just use white out or nail polish to mark the pulleys AND old belt with my own alignment marks, then grab the new belt and copy the marks I made over, making sure the teeth are lined up perfectly. In the hundreds I've done, I've Never had to zero out timing on a preventative maint timing belt replacement.
 
  #9  
Old 10-08-2013, 03:59 PM
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I surely appreciate the suggestions. Thankfully I'm back on the road again, but with a lot of lessons learned, some the hard way. I've included a link to the photo which shows the proper alignment for my S80. https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...Dy8s5smwdI&v=3
It's interesting that a little red string from the new belt got caught on the timing mark, but that's just a coincidence. Anyone who reads this should note that in order to see the timing mark on the outer hub, the crankshaft nut and pulley must be removed. Certainly common sense would have said to mark the crankshaft pulley and the block with nail polish or whiteout and leave the nut and pulley on, which is exactly what I shall do if I ever do one of these again. BTW, just for grins, after I had the new belt on and replaced the pulley, I tried the touchy feely thing suggested above and it was simply not going to work.

The funny thing about all of this is that I started this whole project because I was losing a little bit of coolant and it appeared to be coming from the belt cover area, so I went ahead and replaced the water pump and put on a new timing belt (since the old one had some 60K on it; the car has 172K). Along the way I had to replace the plastic nipple coming from the thermostat housing. After I got the new one and got that in place (which is not easy, as the thermostat housing must be completely removed and getting it back in place with the sensor wire running on the back side in a groove between it and the block is a real trick), I found the bleeder valve going to the coolant tank leaking. Because I live in far north Ca, I have to order everything online, and it takes days to get things. So, I finally got everything, got it together, and then damaged the power steering pulley as I was replacing the serpentine belt. I'm not impressed that Volvo put a plastic pulley on, but another lesson learned. I've decided to order a metal one from FCPEURO and have it on hand and simply run with the current damaged plastic one until the belt fails. It seems to be running "true" and isn't making any noise, so maybe it will hold up, who knows?

The really funny thing about all of this is that I think it's still leaking coolant from somewhere around the same area. I may have to take the timing belt cover off, reassemble everything, and run the car and observe. It might be from that pesky thermostat housing, but then I'm thinking that may be too obvious....

I think I'd sell the car except that I just had the tranny rebuilt and now I simply have too much invested.
 
  #10  
Old 10-08-2013, 04:08 PM
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So you are currently running with the damaged power steering pump pulley? Not a good idea to wait until the belt shreds, as I have seen many get sucked up into the timing cover and cause it to jump time and bend valves.

How did you damage the pulley by putting the belt on?
 
  #11  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:45 AM
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I got in a hurry and didn't see where the belt had slipped out of the servo's pulley grooves at the bottom and was trying to "help" get the belt on the power steering pulley with a screw driver. Dumb, I know. One of those lessons learned the hard way. I think you are right, though, so when the new metal pulley arrives I guess I'll pull the power steering box off and take it to a machine shop to see if they can do the work. If they can't get the pulley off, I'll have to order a unit from Rockauto. Looks like they run a little over $100.

The car is still leaking coolant from the right hand side. I'm really scratching me head over this. I noticed the coolant level wiring is real loose where it plugs in on the bottom of the reservoir. In fact, when I had it raised up, it fell right out, though it was easy to put right back on. The thing is, it doesn't appear to be running from the reservoir. It is also possible that the bottom end of the fill hose is leaking, I really can't see it from above. Can that be seen from underneath the car when the bottom engine cover is removed? If not, it might be worthwhile to just replace that hose and see if it fixes the problem. Otherwise, I guess I'm going to have to remove the timing belt cover, which means taking the serpentine belt and turbo components off, then putting it all back together while leaving the lower timing belt cover off, then start the car and watch to see if I can see if it's leaking around the thermostat housing.

I would take it to a shop, but they charge upwards of $100 an hour around here, and my experience is that no one really knows these later model Volvos too well (had to take it 5/1/2 hours south to get the tranny rebuilt) plus they get quadruple for parts. Not that they aren't worth it, but even with all the work I've done so far, I've only put in about $200 and there's a new timing belt, new water pump, and new serpentine belt. I'm also retired and in a position to use another vehicle for local travels, so time is not currently of essence.

Any other constructive suggestions about what to look for reference the coolant leak are appreciated. Perhaps I should start another post about that, as the timing and serpentine belt issues are moot now?
 
  #12  
Old 10-09-2013, 10:09 AM
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A simple pressure test should easily identify a coolant leak. I've seen reservoirs crack and caps leak, but anything is possible.
 
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