Our 2000 v40 Volvo, since two days ago, stopped starting. At first, when my wife unlocked the car and got in, the Auto-Theft message was on, and the car started as normal.

Then, after a short drive home, after sitting parked for half an hour, the next time she tried, it wouldn't start. She turned the ignition and nothing happened. So she had it jumped, and it started immediately from the jump.

Then she got gas, turning off the car, and it started after pumping. Same with another errand.

Then she parked it where she teaches for an hour and a half, and again it didn't start. She got it jumped again to get home.

Note: Our key has a broken casing, so we thought maybe the chip in the key casing was not making contact.

The next morning it started fine and she took it to the Volvo dealer, who made two keys ($$$) and it started at the dealership and she came home.

Then an hour later it started and she went out, but at her destination it again didn't start when she tried it, and she again had to get a jump.

Now, at home a day later, it won't start without a jump. We got it jumped and let it run for an hour, then locked and unlocked the car repeatedly with the central lock button. Then we turned it off. When we then turned it on again, it made a click the first time, but didn't start; then it didn't even make the click.

We thought maybe this is the "Auto-Theft immobilization"problem mentioned in some threads, but in those threads the ignition locks up so it won't even turn. Our ignition switch turns easily, but nothing happens.

Since we have a new key from the dealer, I assume it's not the key.

We've tried the tactic mentioned in other threads of locking the doors then unlocking them repeatedly. No effect.

Other threads talk about relays and ignition switch chips. Can anyone deduce anything based on the described behavior?

Thanks,

- Willie

 

There is a VERY GOOD chance that the battery is bad, has bad cells in it. Get the battery tested at any auto parts store and replace the battery if they suggest it. I do NOT purchase new Volvo batteries so any proper rated battery will work.

 

Good advice. I'll take the battery out, borrow a friend's car, and take it to an Auto Parts store and get the battery diagnosed (rather than risk having to jump it twice).

I'll report back if this solves it. What makes me skeptical is that it jumps to life immediately. But I guess that's the other car's life force. What do I know.

 

I discovered that I actually don't need to get the car jumped. Instead I only need to jigger with the position of the battery and its cables, then the car starts right up.

Today I had to jigger the battery a few times, but now I seem to have gotten it into a location where whatever cable problem it had has settled. I've driven it several times and it's started up each time. However, I assume I could go over a bump and the problem will return.

I took it to an auto parts store and told them the behavior, and they said it was probably not the battery, or if the battery were bad, there was also probably a cable connection problem. They said they didn't do wiring diagnostics, but they did check the battery and it did print out a notice that "Battery needs replacement" (a unit that is supposed to be above ~750 was only 479).

But the fellow told me he still didn't think simply replacing the battery would solve the problem, and that we should have a mechanic find the wiring problem before replacing the battery.

When I left the auto parts store was the last time (so far) that the car didn't start. When I got home I noticed one nut on the positive cable was a little loose, so I tightened it, and we've driven it three times since without incident.

But tomorrow our mechanic will look at it. (Problem now is that he might not see a problem.) One thing I notice is that there doesn't seem to be a way to "clamp" the battery down. It just sits on a plate, with an inch or so of space to move around.

Anyway, your battery advice was good. We'll replace it and I hope figure out what wiring is also faulty. Thanks.

 

Good to hear that you're having some progress.

The battery tray, if like mine, should have a clip like the pic below. Usually the "other" battery places leave it off and loose it if yours dosen't have one.



I would suggest cleaning the battery post and the battery cable ends and reinstalling the battery. These newer cars really do not show corrosion like the old school cars use to back in the day. They sell a wire brush thing to do that with.



If that doesn't fix it, then have the mechanic check it out.

 

Thanks much for you generosity. The photo helped. The battery is now clamped down, the connectors cleaned, and the car has started reliably for several days now.

Now I have to figure out how to get the radio back. Instead of the "Code" message (I know the code), it says "Off" when I turn it on. I guess it won't switch to "Code" until I run it for an hour (or two?) without stopping. Not likely to do that for a while, given the price of gas (and having no trips planned). But not having a radio has one advantage--it makes me sing instead of just listen.

 

You don't have to run the engine, just leave the ignition turned on for a couple of hours (I believe) to get back to "Code".