Hello,

I have a 2005 V50 and my 3 year 35000 mile maintenance package just expired in February. I just today took the car in for the 38000 mile scheduled maintenance as the car was telling me it was time to go in. The car was just inspected in February and passed without issue. I just found out that the 38000 mile scheduled maintenance is a $430 charge. Not sure what they are all doing. The mumbled something about a break system flush or something or other.

I took the car in this morning and I just got a call from the Volvo dealership. They said that their tech had found that my rear break pads were completely worn and they need to be replaced immediately. Apparently the front breaks are fine. I know the car has a rear break bias but enough to cause the rear break pads to go so far ahead of the front break pads and at less then 40k miles? Something doesn't seem right to me. It's another $200 charge tacked on. If the break pads are so bad off how could they have not seen this at the inspection less then 2 months ago?

Then they proceed to tell me that my tires need to be replaced and that they could do all the work today for a little over $1500. Does it sound like I'm being taken for a ride here? It sure does to me. No way would I have them do the tires but they are telling me it's not safe to drive the car with the rear break pads like that so I told them to go ahead and replace them.

Anyone else had similar issues with rear break pads wearing so fast?

Thanks!

 

hmmmm Do you think they found that brakes break??

OK, low blow.

r.

OK, reality is that there is no money in it either for the tech or for the facility (Volvo) in 'free' work. Warranty work does not pay and so non-warranty work is what puts the money in the pocket! It is no surprise that the dealer suddenly found issues with your Volvo..........it is to be expected. As to the rear brakes I would have pulled a wheel and checked them myself. It is a possibility that the rears can 'go' first although in 45 years of experience I seldom have found that to occur with my autos...........in fact I have found that the front pads are generally replaced twice prior to replacing the rears.

Rule of thumb: Caveat Emptor

r.

 

On V50 the pads at rear always worn faster than the front... u will go through 2 sets rear pads before 1 set front pads needed... I've notice.. turbo or non turbo I have notice the car tends to have wheel spins often even with traction control... tires do wear out fast on those car.. 38000miles actually is not consider wearing too fast... 16" wheel with Michelin MXV4 S4 don't wear as fast.. the 17" with MXM4 wear out even faster. Not to mention tire pressures need to be checked at least once a month if lazy...

 

Hi there,

Yes the rear pads wear much quicker than the front. Want proof, pay attention to which wheels are more covered with brake dust when you wash your car. The rear are always more dust covered. I pulled the wheels (while switching summer/winter) and confirmed rear wear much quicker. I don't run at the 2:1 ratio noted above, maybe 1.5:1. In anycase, more rear wear is normal.

 

Using Volvo pads, I usually get about 30K miles out of the rears. Last time I switch to Hawk HPS pads on the rear. I've got 40K miles on them and they are still good. They perform very well and have very little dust.

Brake fluid flush is good to do as the fluid tends to absorb moisture and will degrade system components.

When I bought my V50 used, it had 28K miles and original Michelin MXV4 S4 tires and they were just barely legal. I replaced them with Michelin Pilot Exalto AS, which are not rated for high mileage. They have 40K on them now and will likely go another 10K. They are a very good all season tire with a performance edge.

Stan
Stan

 

I was told that to replace the rear pads on my own would not be as easy as on other cars...say a Ford Explorer. Apparently there is an issue with compressing the cylinder and you need a special tool? Is it really that special? What I'm getting at is can't I just replace the rotors & pads on my own? Has anyone done it on their own?

 

Yes, you need a tool to spin the piston, it is tricky, but I believe stores will loan out one.

 

Auto Zone has the tool which you can borrow. You have to leave a deposit which they refund when you return. Also, Harbor Freight has it to buy for cheap.

I have heard of some folks using pliers to turn the piston while compressing.

 

I recently changed the rear pads. I had the compression tool but found it much easier to use needle nose pliers to rotate the piston and press it back. Be sure to check the brake fluid resevoir before compressing the piston. You will be pushing the fluid back into the resevoir, if there is no room for it, it will overflow. Also, since it is a sealed system, be sure to remove the resevoir cap before compressing to allow the fluid to flow otherwise pressure will build in the system.

Cheers!