Pulling engine - what to replace
#1
Pulling engine - what to replace
I picked up a 2005 V50 that needs a motor. The previous owner lived at the end of a gravel driveway and loaned the car to somebody who was driving too fast down the drive, hit a bump, and punched a hole in the oil pan. It's not seized completely, but it's really tight and barely turns over. Anyway, I have a motor, and since the underside is covered with mud from his driveway, I'm just going to pull the whole front end apart to do the engine swap. I'm pulling the engine, trans, subframe, front bumper, and support, so I can pressure wash everything and make it all clean.
Until now the newest Volvo I've had is a '98 V70, so I'm not familiar with any issues specific to the V50. Anything I should be replacing while I've got the whole front end apart, other than the standard T-belt, water pump, and rear seal?
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Any suggestions appreciated.
Until now the newest Volvo I've had is a '98 V70, so I'm not familiar with any issues specific to the V50. Anything I should be replacing while I've got the whole front end apart, other than the standard T-belt, water pump, and rear seal?
.
Any suggestions appreciated.
#2
If the transmission was shifting lumpy at all before the problems, you could swap in a set of Rostra linear control solenoids while it's out (it would be a really trivial job with the access you'll have).
I'd replace the major hoses - probably unnecessary but they're cheap and easy (no more work than reconnecting the old ones).
And I'd take a close look at all the motor / transmission mounts. Anything that doesn't look 100% would be a good candidate.
It wouldn't hurt to check the steering rack / hoses for any leaks - they're a LOT easier to fix with all that stuff out of the way.
I'd replace the major hoses - probably unnecessary but they're cheap and easy (no more work than reconnecting the old ones).
And I'd take a close look at all the motor / transmission mounts. Anything that doesn't look 100% would be a good candidate.
It wouldn't hurt to check the steering rack / hoses for any leaks - they're a LOT easier to fix with all that stuff out of the way.
#3
Good info to have. Thank you.
I'm ordering the timing belt kit from Rockauto and the listing differentiates between engine numbers up to a certain point, and from that point on. Where is the engine number? I assume it's stamped into the block somewhere?
Also, the car I pulled the motor out of had some control arm bushings that were obviously not stock, so I grabbed them. From searching google, they appear to be Whiteline control arm bushings, which I assume were designed to solve some problem with the OE bushings. Are there any other bushings or mounts in the front end that I should consider replacing while I have it all apart?
Thanks for the advice
I'm ordering the timing belt kit from Rockauto and the listing differentiates between engine numbers up to a certain point, and from that point on. Where is the engine number? I assume it's stamped into the block somewhere?
Also, the car I pulled the motor out of had some control arm bushings that were obviously not stock, so I grabbed them. From searching google, they appear to be Whiteline control arm bushings, which I assume were designed to solve some problem with the OE bushings. Are there any other bushings or mounts in the front end that I should consider replacing while I have it all apart?
Thanks for the advice
#4
I'd look at all the "wear items" in the area while you have the engine out. When I buy a road trip car I like to make it drive like a new one, and replace the lower control arms (with ball joints), the inner and outer tie rods, and the struts if they're not good (here in Arizona, they don't wear out quickly because the roads are flat and in great shape). It is possible that the previous owner did some things to alter the original geometry, though it's hard to know why unless the car's been in a wreck and needed the extra adjustment to bring it back into alignment spec.
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