RE: '01 V70 T5....My lower control arm bushings and front strut/spring assembly seats need to be replaced. Does this repair require the engine to be raised or lifted up? If so, it occured to me that if the engine is raised I might as well replace the engine torque mounts.

 

I can't speak to the upper strut seats since I've never done them, but I will say that I would strongly (!!!) recommend replacing the entire control arm if you're planning on trying to replace the front bushings in the control arms. I think it's easy enough to replace the rear bushings on the control arm (being kind of a standard flat bushing that makes it easy to press in/out with a standard shop press) but the front one is a gold-plated bear to press in, or get out for that matter. I did manage to barely get one set replaced, though only after a whole lot more grief than necessary. The cost of the entire control arm isn't all that bad, at least not compared to the difficulty of pressing in the front bushings.

You certainly don't have to raise the engine to replace the control arms... it's actually a pretty easy job on the grand scheme of things since it's easy to disconnect the hub and then get the axle out, at least if the splines aren't corroded (not a problem on my car, since it's been in Arizona its entire life). You WILL have to get the front end realigned, of course... Replacing the ball joints can be interesting as well - it shouldn't be a hard job, but getting the new ones pressed into the knuckle was difficult on my car. I ended up using an air chisel to get them started (be careful though - it's easy to damage the rubber cover).

 

You usually remove the strut assembly to replace the spring seats and strut mounts. Should NOT need to support or raise the motor, the motor mounts do that.

 

Thank you...very helpful.

 

Wanted to know, did you get the ABS alert intermittently before you changed the lower arm controls?

I usually get the ABS light 8 out 10 times I start the car. Keep in mind that the car brakes are very good (I've had to brake very quickly a lot especially in the morning on the freeway to work) I do know that I have to replace the lower arm control after I got an alignment for no reason. I have a personal mechanic and great he's been servicing my mothers car and my ex car. I just wanted to know if maybe that was linked in some way

 

I doubt there is any correlation between an ABS problem and bad control arm bushings. All the ABS mechanism is pretty much decoupled from the control arm, so even if your axle was flopping around a bit, the ABS sensors are moving with it, so won't see anything amiss. This is doubly true if you're getting an error just starting the car, before it's even moved.

 

I'm sorry I should have made it more clear that I took the car to an independent mechanic and I did not do the work, myself.

 

I don't have any idea about upper strut seat, I can not say any thing about that because I have never done that before but I would like to advise you to replace the complete control arm system like I did of my car.I replaced Volkswagen Control Arm & Suspension Bushings and they are working much better than the previous parts.I started enjoying my drive again.So If you are asking for the suggestion so I would recommend you replaced complete control arm.

 

Recently did the control arms on my 02 S60 173k. It is exactly the same (s60, s80, v70) all have same platform and chassis, I agree with the comments above. With the control arms it is best to just replace the entire unit. Usually the cost of the bushing then having someone press them in unless you own a shop costs more than just doing the entire unit.

I will say and thankfully someone told me this before I tore the car apart. If you do the control arms you really should do the ball joints as well. Especially if it is a DIY job. Trying to align the control arm into the ball joint would have been a nightmare. And the project was hard enough.

If you do it yourself make sure you have the right tools. A some rope/belt and a good pry bar. Make sure when doing any suspension work the car is jacked up evenly.

I did not have to raise up the engine. However, there were two bolts on the inside of the skid plate on both sides. I had to have a short wrench and 3/8 fitting. Had to use quite a bit of muscle to break them lose. I will say I was not able to torque them to spec because you would have to lift the engine to do that. All other bolts where easy enough to access. When I put them back in I just bid them as tight as I could by hand then tried to push the wrench with my feet which is how I broke at-least one side loose.

If you have any questions by chance about doing the Control Arms yourself. Please PM me. Would be glad to help you out.