so I'm refreshing the running gear on a 200K mile '92 740T wagon I just bought.

the rear end undoubtably needs some bushing love, and I'm figuring on having my mechanic replace as many of the bushings as are practical and are likely to need replacing, probably using poly bushings from FCP Groton or IPDusa...



which of the bushings are most likely to need it in that diagram? and are poly still the preferred way to go over the OEM rubber?

• 2 - swingarm bushing
• 13,14 - panhard bushings
• 32,33,35,36 - torque arm bushings
• 21,24 - torque frame-to-chassis bushings
• 10 - bumper stop

how about other stuff like the [7] bearings that hold the live axle on the swingarms?

while we're at this, we're going to do heavy duty springs and shocks, and the 25+25mm swaybars. I don't want a harsh ride but I don't like my car to wallow either.

I'm thinking this is a good time to do the driveshaft center bearing too. I'll be doing front end stuff too, but haven't quite got into those diagrams yet

basically I want this car to ride and drive like new. the body is in great shape so putting a couple $thou into refurbishing the running gear is, imho, a good investment.

 

I'd have it looked at and have your mechanic assess the bushes individually. Most of the Volvo rear end bushes last very, very well. The only ones I'd replace as a matter of course on an older car would be Panhard rod and lower control arm bushes and the rest on report.
I wouldn't touch any of the torque link bushes, for example, unless they were suspect, then I'd do them all, as it's easy to pull the whole assembly out as one unit. I've never really heard of the torque link bushes being much of an issue on even very high mileage 740's.
As a general rule for bushes, replacing rubber for polyurethane in pivot points doesn't add much harshness, but replacing them in bushes designed to deflect does.
If you really want good, like new ride quality, you should get a set of (7) bushes, they are axle to control arm insulators, designed to reduce road and differential noise transmitted into the cabin from axle and wheel.
As for the 25/25 IPD bars, I think they're well worth it, as are the KYB GR-2 shocks, but I mentioned that in another thread already.
I'd spend money on new shocks and strut components before I spent money on bushes that are probably O.K.
For the front end, just buy the IPD rebuild kit and get new strut top bushes/mounts/bearings and a strut rebuild kit (which is the rubber bump stop/dust/stone deflector) and also replace inner/outer tie rod ends and control arm balljoints. Just do it all on the front end, it makes a HUGE difference. The 740's really NEED the polyurethane radius rod bushing in the front suspension, teh stock part has way too much deflection and you can get away with urethane here if you use the rubber IPD mount at the other end, as it still insulates against road noise quite well.

 

k, thanks. yeah, I need to study the front end and figure out what all the links are. I'm mostly working from the part diagrams on a vadis dvd.

i know there's something a little funky in the back as I hear/feel some rumble-clunk from back there on certain bumps.

my *first* priority has to be sorting out what i think are two slightly bent rims, on the front, and then putting new tires on all 4. THEN deal with shocks, bushings, tie-rods, etc.

 

just to be sure I'm on the right page, the radius rod is (9) here, and the bushings you're takling about are 11 and 10?



I just confirmed, I do have the steel control arms and not the alloy ones (vadis shows both without explanation). the anti-sway bar rod top bushing looks all cracked and stuff, so probably should be replaced with the bar upgrade? oh, I see, the IPD kits look like they come with those, so no biggie.

 

Yes, 11 and 10. IPD kit has 11 bushes in urethane and the 10 pivot bush in rubber.

 

hmm. not seeing these [7] rear axle bushings at either IPD or FCP Groton. they both list the [2] trailing arm bushing in poly or rubber.