When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2005 V50 Wagon FWD 2.4I Auto with 86 k. Engine just stopped. I tried to start and it just whirred fast. A guy said Timing Belt. Watched a few videos. Went out pulled back the Timing Cover and the Belt is still on the pulley's. Someone said or I watched a video that said the tension-er fails and that can cause it to stop and Maybe not bend valves?? Can I check the valves without pulling the head? Perhaps a Diag Camera on a flex stick?? Any advice, I am pretty good at fixing, Will I need to re time it all again. Any advice as how to proceed. I am going to order a basic timing belt replace kit. Then see what I get here??
If the engine has a higher pitched sound and seems like it is spinning over much faster when you operate the starter - you probably have bent valves due to some sort of timing belt malfunction.
It would be extremely rare but not impossible for the timing belt to be out of time just enough to prevent combustion and not have bent valves - so whatever you do - don't move the engine until you figure out what's wrong -
Once you get a new belt, tensioner and idler pulley on - you can check compression then be prepared to remove the head to get new valves put in -
Have you done a sideways engine timing belt? Not easy the first time. Suggest you get a service manual that will outline the procedures - a stolen and hacked factory service manual is easily found on the internet. Swedespeed has a download in the OBD section.
I've seen belts slip enough to stop an engine without bending valves. I'd suggest buying / borrowing a borescope and have a look down the spark plug holes. If the valves DID get in a fist fight with the pistons, the pistons will have tell-tale crescent shaped dings on top. I'm not sure you'll be able to see minor damage to the valves themselves, but if they look anything but perfectly round, your engine is toast (or at least the head is).
FWIW, it looks like you can buy a borescope that plugs into your phone for about (gulp) $15. For that kind of chump change, everyone should have one (it probably works better than my actual borescope, too).
Thank You and yes it is fast & high pitched. I have sort of eased into the idea the valves are best. I looked at heads and a new Volvo is like $2400, Nutz. I found at least 1 re manufactured head that comes ready to install, valves, springs etc. https://www.cylinder-heads.com/produ...-2006-rebuilt/
Clearwater Cylinder Heads. I will get the manual download. Never a timing belt on a transverse engine. I have done frame off resto and engine builds of the olde rtype. I can follow directions but if I get in trouble then I will find help.
The bore scope is what I was thinking. I called a shop and they said they would need to do the belt (& WP, Tn, & Pulley) B4 they could tell me if the engine worked ($800 to $900), I asked about a scope to look in cylinder piston heads, Da we don't have one. At $850 when the parts are $150 to $175 I will get dirty, parts ordered. If it don't start then I found a ReMan head with all the valves & springs for $600, Clearwater Cylinder Heads for $600 delivered to my door. It's fixed with a head for less than the $9800 to $900. I think that's where I am going. Does the head thing sound Ok, https://www.cylinder-heads.com/produ...-2006-rebuilt/
First, since you don't KNOW you need a new head, I'd say it's well worth spending a few bucks on a borescope. FWIW, after my last post, I just pulled the trigger and ordered this one - yes, under $12 delivered. It's got a USB-C connector that's compatible with my phone, so I can pack it in my travel kit in the unlikely event I might need it (and leave my real borescope at home). With
, you should be able to find out for certain if you even need to consider a new head or not. $12 vs. $600 and a huge job. Your call...
If you DO need a head, then $600 for a well-rebuilt (assuming it is...) head doesn't sound bad. I'd be tempted to look for a boneyard head, depending on the miles and value of the car it's going in (no extra points if the new head outlasts the car by 100,000 miles, after all). ;-)
If the engine has a higher pitched sound and seems like it is spinning over much faster when you operate the starter - you probably have bent valves due to some sort of timing belt malfunction.
It would be extremely rare but not impossible for the timing belt to be out of time just enough to prevent combustion and not have bent valves - so whatever you do - don't move the engine until you figure out what's wrong -
Once you get a new belt, tensioner and idler pulley on - you can check compression then be prepared to remove the head to get new valves put in -
Have you done a sideways engine timing belt? Not easy the first time. Suggest you get a service manual that will outline the procedures - a stolen and hacked factory service manual is easily found on the internet. Swedespeed has a download in the OBD section.
I looked at Swedespeed Forum but can't find it. If you know where it is can you give me a link or like a path or search to get it????
First, since you don't KNOW you need a new head, I'd say it's well worth spending a few bucks on a borescope. FWIW, after my last post, I just pulled the trigger and ordered this one - yes, under $12 delivered. It's got a USB-C connector that's compatible with my phone, so I can pack it in my travel kit in the unlikely event I might need it (and leave my real borescope at home). With
, you should be able to find out for certain if you even need to consider a new head or not. $12 vs. $600 and a huge job. Your call...
If you DO need a head, then $600 for a well-rebuilt (assuming it is...) head doesn't sound bad. I'd be tempted to look for a boneyard head, depending on the miles and value of the car it's going in (no extra points if the new head outlasts the car by 100,000 miles, after all). ;-)
TY,. Yes I am going to get the bore scope as I have to Classic Mini's and other cars I work on a lot, it will get used more`. Clearwater Cylinder Heads, look very good if I need one.. I paid 3k for it with 76k on a little overt a year ago. It's worth fixing for under 1k doing myself. I got what I need for now. Might be back once I get into it a bit today.
I get my bent valve cylinder heads repaired locally, with new valves/guides/adjusted/ etc. - for considerably less than that. Be sure to use new head bolts. They are torque to yield and stretch when installed.
Well, all this talk about borescopes, and my general dissatisfaction with the one I have sitting in my garage led me to take a chance and see just what I could get for a whopping $12 delivered...
Gotta say, I'm pretty impressed with the picture quality (a LOT better than the cheap "dedicated" borescope I already had). Its got a clever "adaptable" USB plug that will fit a host of different phones / tablets / PCs. That said, I would say that the USB-C adapter that I used on my 'droid phone was a little less than secure, and was easy to dislodge. But given how seldom I'd be using this, it's only a very minor annoyance. The built-in LED lighting around the camera is VERY adequate, and would seem to be up to the task of poking around inside an engine. It also comes with a couple snap-on tips that add a magnet, a hook, or a right-angle mirror to the tip. Nothing fancy, and I'm sure it's not built to milspec, but let's face it - it'll much (!) more than pay for itself the first time I use it, and best of all, it'll pack right in my road trip laptop / toolkit without taking up much room (less than a mini-USB charger and cord).
I have got the cover off and the Timing belt is on.
The belt is on and the play between the 2 top pulleys is 1/2 an inch . Probably a tensioner and it jumped ?? Here are pics of play. I did notice the alternator belt looks to be shreding, I replaced 6 months ago.
. Probably a tensioner and it jumped ?? Here are pics of play. I did notice the alternator belt looks to be shreding, I replaced 6 months ago.
Last edited by Jim Sperry; 02-10-2021 at 02:24 PM.
I did notice the alternator belt looks to be shreding, I replaced 6 months ago.
I have repaired several cars where the serpentine belt comes apart and pieces get caught in the timing belt - causing the timing belt to "jump time" with the resulting bent valves - it's still possible there are no or just 10 bent valves.
You're driving along, life is good and the car's running great. Suddenly BOOM... it dies.
Your serpentine belt is shredded. This is a new bit of info that's probably critical. Also, your timing belt is loose (I am assuming that you're exerting almost no pressure at all on that section of belt to move it up and down).
AND your cam pulleys don't turn when you hit the starter. Yikes.
I'm not really sure WHAT you're going to find when you pull off the timing belt cover, but I'm betting it won't be pretty. As hoonk suggested, a shredded serpentine belt can cause real havoc when chunks start getting into the timing belt "system".
And if it was me, I'd have long ago checked out inside the cylinders with that borescope to see if I was just wasting my time looking at anything else... just sayin'...
1st Thank You for being a sounding board.
You're driving along, life is good and the car's running great. Suddenly BOOM... it dies. Yes I was dring and hit a hill noticed no power. I saw all the dash lights on. Pulled over tried to start and Whirrrrr.
Your serpentine belt is shredded. This is a new bit of info that's probably critical. Also, your timing belt is loose (I am assuming that you're exerting almost no pressure at all on that section of belt to move it up and down). My Serpentine belt is still on and working but it did look to be shredding some, I noticed this when looking at the timing belt
AND your cam pulleys don't turn when you hit the starter. Yikes. No I 1st stated that they were not but on re-inspection YES THEY ARE TURNING as I could see the writing on belt advancing.
I'm not really sure WHAT you're going to find when you pull off the timing belt cover, but I'm betting it won't be pretty. As hoonk suggested, a shredded serpentine belt can cause real havoc when chunks start getting into the timing belt "system". So with above information revised it appears the Crank is turning the belt that turning the cams but it appears there is not any compression. I have a bore scope on the way. I was trying to find what the timing procedure is? Which cylinder should be TDC, at that point the cam timing marks and crank can be eyed to see how far out is?? At this time I guess I am looking at a head job and the timing belt along with doing the AC & Serpentine Belts also. I am working outside and it raining here for the next 4 to 5 days.
And if it was me, I'd have long ago checked out inside the cylinders with that borescope to see if I was just wasting my time looking at anything else... just sayin'...
02-04-2021, 03:20 PM
Timing Belt Jumped ??
