Yesterday i bought second hand a V70 with 240k miles on it. The car is immaculate - even the engine is clean. there are no dents or rust or scratches. However after driving about 30 miles, then stopping at a shop , i wasnt able to lock the car with the key fob so i locked it with the key and left.
I came back about half an hour later and saw that that the key fob that was in my pocket was in bits.
I put it back together and tried to start the car to no avail. i only got a clicking noise. The key does not want to stay intact when it gets turned in the ignition either.
I called a tow truck and had the car towed home. The towy put a jump pack on the car and all the dash lights came on, air con, radio - everything but the car wouldnt start.
After the towy left and with the key out of ignition i could hear many noises behind the dash. This subsequently has completely drained the battery which is now totally dead flat.
The key fob is all put back together but im yet to charge the battery.
Im really hoping its something i have done and not that the seller was aware of a major electrical issue.
Could it be ive tripped an anti theft system or something?
Any ideas?

 

Your switch blade style key - has an immobilizer transponder in it. That signal is picked up by the antenna ring - that's the illuminated ring around where the key is inserted. The transponder has to be within an inch of the antenna to work. If you lost the transponder (example pictured below) - that key WILL NOT start the car. I trust you got BOTH the keys and the valet key when you purchased the car? If not, you will be quoted $600 or so for a replacement key and remote. That includes the key, remote, and programming that can usually only be done at a Volvo Dealer (or anyone else that has a VIDA subscription)

The key is actually 2 separate parts that unbolt from each other. The remote and the key. If your remote still works you just need the key portion, about $300. If your remote is broken also, you can have a plain rubber handled key made and programmed and use the triangular shaped separate remote (examples pictured below)

Many, upon learning what a key costs - turn to Amazon and ebay for a cheaper solution. Most with no success. Certainly you can purchase a cheapy key, but many dealers will refuse to try to program them.
Remotes - you will find used remotes for sale. A used remote will NEVER work in your car. - Unless you have the plastic bag the remote came in from the factory with the PIN code on the bag. (nobody has those) There was a thread on swedespeed about 6 months ago where someone found an aftermarket company that was able to remotely make new keys work for his car. That vendor is mentioned at the end of this thread https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/t.../#post-8068210

Or you might could do what this guy did. https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/s.../#post-8052272

Or - If you need a new key - tow the car to the dealer. They will order a new key (either a rubber handle key or the top half for the switchblade ) by using the VIN number, and it will come precut. (if the dealer orders the key and there's a bad cut or the key does not turn you won't have to pay for it) Then they will use VIDA to tell your CEM (central electronic module) to accept the signal from the new key. A Precut key takes a couple of cays to get to the dealer.

 

Thanks for your reply. I found that the circuit board was not aligned and now the clicker, clicks. Put some jumper leads on the dead volvo battery and managed to unlock all the doors. This is good.
The battery is on about 7V though...So its on charge. No i only have the one key - no spare. This key has the chip etc all there but i really do need a spare. These new keys...A guy here where i am drove off in a bmw that you can start with a key nearby but he didnt take the key with him. He was then stranded with no key. I think this **** is ridiculous...gimmie wind down windows and a tape player...
Grateful i was able to open the tail gate door after being unlocked!

 

That can't happen in your car, but newer Volvos (and many others) certainly yes.

 

is it hard and expensive to get a replacement key if i have 1?

 

And why do you think the air con etc cae on after the key was removed after the tow driver tried to jump it?

 

Call your dealer - they will quote you as above.

 

Perhaps something was fried? Have no clue.

Sorry for your troubles

 

new battery and its all working but the AC stays on after the car is turned off. this is what drained the last battery.
i have to disconnect the battery to avoid another killed battery.
the fuse for the AC seems to be linked to gas pedal so not sure if i can remove it. These cars are complex. Wish i bought something simpler.

 

AC stays on?

The radiator cooling fan or the fan inside the car?

Either one will probably require a module or resister replacement. Any codes stored (not just obd, in the whole car) The fan inside the car is programmed to come on for ~7 minutes, ~50 minutes after the car is turned off to hopefully eliminate moisture in the evaporator. (prevents the ac stinky sock smell)

And there is really nothing simpler with todays tech than maybe a Kawasaki mule!

 

Ac I think. When I turn the key on it turns on. I turn it off but it continues to blow. Didn't happen when I first took the car but it was hot so I turned it on. When I stopped the car after buying it. The clicker didn't work to lock the car so I locked with key. When I returned the key circuit board and key was all in pieces in my pocket. I tried to start the car with the key. It wouldn't. I think I tripped some anti theft thingy and flattened the battery. Once home after the tow I realigned the circuit board on key and when I connected the battery to another car battery I was able to use the clicker to mobilize the car again. So when the new battery went in today it just started easy. But it's still blowing.