I bought this V70 used a few months ago and I'm in the process of replacing the front disc brake pads. My problem is that the right side front lug bolts, all 5, are seized. The alloy wheel shows signs of severe impact gun work. I don't know if they were cross threaded or just pounded in by the impact gun. I've tried my 2' long breaker bar with a 4 foot long pipe for extra torque and I'm expecting the bar to snap.
Any folk's have a cure for this? Or am I up the creek without a paddle?

 

Find a shop close by and have them use their impact to knock them loose. Snug them back up reasonably, and drive back home for the rest of the job.
Use anti-seize on the threads and cone upon reassembly.
100 ft/lbs on reassembly.
Ed

 

I have experienced that myself, I think with my T-5R. Glad I didn't get a flat on the way home. I actually bent the lug nut wrench. Hope you got it by now.

I keep anti-seize in my car now and usually will not bolt wheels on without it. I have also seen a few cars RECENTLY that had the wheels stuck on the hub. I put grease or anti-seize on the hub as well.

 

By the sounds of it, you may end up sacrificing some wheel studs. I'd find a local shop that will attempt to remove the nuts with their rattle gun but also understand it could become a stud replacement job.
The guys are right with the anti seize, although I just use some bearing grease, same result.
I find the newer cad plated studs and nuts can be a real problem once they get some corrosion going.

 

I did manage to get them off with a lot of body weight, 234 pounds with bouncing force, 2 foot long breaker bar and 2 sections of 4 foot long pipe. When I put them together I had a 7 foot long extension on the impact socket. Somebody used a jackhammer to install the lugs. My intention was to snap off the lugs and just go out and buy a new hub and bearing and 5 new lugs. I was amazed when I heard the first crack of the lug letting go and not breaking! All 5 came out the same way. There was anti seize on the lugs and somebody also put Marvel Mystery Oil, (I could tell from the smell) on the hubs, from the inside without damaging the dust shields. How they did that, I don't know.
Lady Luck was on my side. No damage to the lugs or hub/bearing assembly or alloy wheels but I'm still going to replace the lug bolts. I can't imagine the torque that was used to install that wheel. Any math people out there that can figure the amount of force that I used to break them free?

 

Hello, Though I don't know for certain, I've always heard that when you apply anti-seize to lugs you only need half the torque. Otherwise you'll gall the threads. I've used this rule for decades with no problem. I want, "CAUTION: Anti-Seize on threads GO EASY you {censored}" stickers on each wheel well. +1 on lubing the hubs. Absolute necessity. The hardest part of that job is wire brushing the rust, crud and old lube off the hubs and corresponding hole in the wheels. Kira

 

I should also mention that if you're going to try breaking the lugs, you should have a floor jack under the car that's just supporting the weight of the vehicle, so that when the lugs break free, your Volvo doesn't come crashing onto you or the ground. Wear eye protection. Please, Use extreme caution! This is very dangerous!

 

Hello, When breaking stubborn lugs free with a 7' long breaker bar and a 234 lb. person jumping up and down on it, you want the car solidly on the ground. You can break all of the lugs free-even loosen them 1 full turn-and the wheel will still bear weight. The wheel rides on the hub. There's no benefit in taking any of the vehicle's weight off the wheel. Always crack your lugs on the ground then raise the corner, end or side of the car. 1,638 foot pounds of torque is a lot of goose. Safety First. Kira (part time math person)

 

I experienced this problem with the 2001 V70 I recently bought, but never with my older 850 or 240s! My friendly garage loosened the frozen lug bolts. I installed the old bolts into my summer Mag rims with a spinner wrench and SOB, they were frozen again!!! After much web searching I discovered that the permanent solution is to replace the old rusty one-piece bolts with the newer and MUCH improved 2-piece bolts, Volvo part 31316953, seen at the following address or the photo below:

Chrome Wheel nut kit (set of 10). Volvo # 31316953

1. Loosen the bolts while the car is on the ground for maximum torque. For safety, remove and replace ONLY one bolt at a time.
2. Soak the frozen bolts with PB-Blaster for at least 5 to 10 minutes (Light oil and WD40 had no effect).
3. I added a 3 foot pipe to my 1/2" breaker bar and applied a lot of pressure. No, I did NOT bend my bar though it looked like it might. The lug wrench provided with the car was very seriously bent showing that the previous owner had the same problem. See "Remove frozen nuts" below.
4. The studs release with an alarming CRACK but none of the studs broke. The noise scared my partner, neighbors and the dog.
5. Lubricate the new bolts with grease or anti-lock compound which may not be necessary because the new bolts are chrome finished. Reapply with the correct torque setting.
6. I can now easily remove the wheel bolts by hand with a standard spinner wrench. Huge relief when you are on the road and very far from the nearest garage.

Happy driving. BTW where have all the Volvo dealers gone?
Mach9

 

Believe it or not, I picked up another T5-R just a week after my post above. On my way home, a week into my trip, I tried to pull the wheels off to make sure I could and NO GO. I was at my sister's house in Charlotte. One of her neighbors had a cross lug nut wrench. So I got my 550 lb nephew to break them loose for me. Loud pops and snaps but all came loose without any breaks. Anitseize for all of them with no repeat problems.

 

I have found that making a sacrificial 1/2 socket that I hit with a big hammer helps to loosen lug bolts like the op and many have experienced. It was like magic finding out I could salvage some rims by hitting the bolts head on. Instead of the 500foot lbs required to attempt to spin them off.
On another note: the 2 piece lug bolts,...should everyone just get rid of the one piece lug bolts? AND why did they change design is this the reason why?????????

Also note that the 2 piece bolts have a higher torque requirement than the one piece ones, it jumps up to 120NM from 90NM. Or it seems reading the manuals from newer Volvos that this is the case. I think it really stinks that if switching to the 2 piece bolts is a bigger , better, and safer deal that Volvos silence really stinks. Just my thinking on the subject. I mean I have never had an issue with the 2 piece bolts but I can just imagine if my wife was travelling and her XC70 , with the one piece bolts decided to stick when she or anyone was trying to change a flat?????

thanks for posting the part numbers, great write up btw. At the local dealer they also came up with these numbers, but they didn't really have a clue about the conicial section and or if the new ones were better somehow, they certainly are better come removal time. 30756675, 31362432.

Thanks