The remarkable thing is that there is a time delay after the brakes are applied before the pulling begins and it continues to pull for a second after the brakes are released.

The left ball and lower arm bushings were falling apart so they were replaced, thinking that it might be related. It wasn't. I reckon that the next step is to see if there is any caliper pin binding or piston sticking.

 

Inspection revealed no guide pin binding or caliper piston sticking. The guide pins were pretty loose in the calipers and there was a small amount of brake fluid seepage at the piston boots but the defects don't seem serious enough to explain the dramatic pulling that I am experiencing.

Unless one of the techs has any ideas, it looks like a trip to the local franchised dealer is in order.

 

Check the other side. Maybe it's not doing it's job correctly.

 

I should have been more specific: I checked the piston action and guide pins on both sides. I only replaced the bushings and ball joint on the left side. These parts were tight on the right side. I may end up changing them anyway, though.

 

A good indy volvo shop could do that brake at half the cost compared to the stealer and probably better quality workmanship. Brake work is not rocket science but it is safety critical; shop for quality, not price.

... or we could teach you to DIY and save lots more...

 

I would check your rear brakes. Make sure they're both working properly. Mine was pulling to the left also, it was the rear caliper slide/pins. the pad wasn't sliding in until you hit the brakes hard. So it pulled on normal braking.

 

I checked the rear caliper piston and guide pin action to rule it out and discovered nothing remarkable. I pried at the rear tires with a long pipe to see if I could get any fore and aft motion due to loose rear bushings and that was negative also.

Finally, I did the same thing in the front and the right tire moved back and forth about half an inch. (The left side had moved about two inches, prior to rebuilding that side.) I changed the right ball joint, bushings and sway bar link for no better reason than to have equally tight suspension parts on both sides.

The pulling went away and it now stops straight as an arrow. I was surprised because the parts that I removed from the right side weren't all that bad.

I have to say that removing and replacing the control arms on this year is a real pain in the butt. I pulled the cv axles out of the bearing assemblies but I didn't disconnect the strut assembly from the steering knuckle. If I did this job again, I'd probably spend the extra time doing the latter and save myself the struggle.