Just bought a used Air Pump and put it on my 98 V70. I also got the EGR Valve, but did not put in on yet. I started the car this morning and did not hear the pump come on and shut off in about 30 seconds. I did not hear it at all. Does that mean I should change the relay? I will do the EGR valve since I have it and the relay is about $40 at the dealer. The old pump was full of water. I think the relay is up top on my car in the fuse box. Dealer told me 98 was a split year where the relay is sometimes down below and sometimes on the top. The wire comes from the pump and goes to the fuse box so I'm assuming the relay is in there. The CEL did come back on with the same code I was getting before.

I also put new pads and rotors on the front, changed the oil and changed the transmission fluid using Robert's method of draining multiple times and refilling. The first drain the fluid was pretty sludgy looking and black. After three drains and refills, it was much thinner and lighter in color, but it's still pretty black looking. The car seems to shift much smoother and the brakes feel fine.

Wife made me take the first drive after changing the brakes this time. I usually have her make the first test drive and if she doesn't end up in the creek accross the street, I know I did a good job.

 

I would atleast pull the relay and open it up and inspect.

It could very well be burned out.

I forget were you getting an EGR code as well?
If so you might want to pull it and inspect maybe clean old one and save for another time.
Also make sure the hole in the intake isn't clogged solid (Which it usually is of the code comes up.

P.S. glad to see you posting again.

 

I pulled the relay and took the cover off. It looks fine to me, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for. Nothing looks burnt that's for sure. The code I am getting is P0172.

 

It might be fine but the pump should kick on when cold.

The code is system rich.

The next thing to do is check for power from relay to pump in the AM.

 

OK I took the cover off the relay and put it back in the fuse box. When I push the relay closed the pump comes on which tells me the pump is at least working and there is power from the relay to the pump. Now I guess I should see the relay close and turn on the pump when I start the car in the morning, and if it doesn't do that does it mean the relay is bad?

Next I have to check the valve, but my clamps are too small so I'm not doing that until I get bigger clamps. A bad valve would not stop the pump from coming on though would it? I also got all new vacuum elbows and I am going to check them this weekend. From what I read the P0172 is usually a vacuum leak. All the vaccuum lines on these cars are a real pain and they are very hard to get to.

 

OK I started the car this morning with the cover off the relay (it's the type that's a little square yellow one in the fuse box). It never closed and kicked the fan on. I watched it for about two minutes. When I push it closed the fan comes on. Does that sound like the relay is bad? I don't want to spend $40 if that's not the problem.

 

The relay could be bad. There should be one more relay in the panel under the hood that you can swap that one with to test the relay.

You never got a coolant temp sensor code did you?

 

I switched the two yellow relays that are right next to each other and the car started fine, and the Air Pump never came on. No I never got a collant temp sensor code. Where is the coolant temp sensor? I bet that's what the problem is because the pump never comes on. I was just getting ready to ask if there was some sort of sensor that tells when the relay should kick in to turn the pump on.

 

The coolant temp sensor is the sensor mounted in the thermostat housing.

Does your scanner read real time data?

 

I don't think so, but I'm not sure. I did find that the elbow under the intake manifold by the power steering is broke in two which is probably causing the PO172 code. I am going out right now to pull the power steering out of the way to change that elbow. I bought four new elbows at the dealer the other day, two of each kind. I don't have that little clamp on the one end though that will need replaced, and it's a 20 minute drive to the nearest Auto Parts store on Sunday when the local ones are closed. Think cleaning that sensor would do anything, or should I just wait and get a new one since I'm going to working near the the thermostat anyway? I can not find a coolant temp sensor anywhere online so I have no idea how much one costs.

 

Cleaning the sensor will not help at all.
Also make sure the little elbow's off the silver looking valve at the back of the head are good.
Follow the one side back to the electric valve and make sure that end is good as well.

If you don't want to fight with the power steering let me know and I will tell you another way to run it but you will have to Cap the end of the intake.
http://www2.swedishpartswholesale.co...h&dp=false

The sensor.

 

It's not that hard to move the power steering if I remember correctlty. Right now I'm just thinking it might be better to just wait until I get the coolant sensor. Heck with it, I'll just drive the Nissan and have my wife drive the R. It's real nice here today and I'll just have the car out of commission until I get the sensor. Think I should change the thermostat too, while I'm there?

 

I would just to be safe.

 

I was trying to replace the elbow and broke the plastic piece that goes trhrough the tube coming from under the intake manifold. I had no idea that there was a flimsy plastic tube in there. Now I'm not sure what to do? There is not enough of that tube sticking out to do anything with. Am I going to have to take the entire intake manifold off to replace that vacuum line? It has not slack whatsoever and I can't tell exactly where it goes. I can't believe they make these vacuum lines so hard to get to!

Edit:: Just thinking and thought maybe I would just glue therubber hose to the elbowwith some rubber cement. Think that would work, and would I leave the plastic tube in there or not? Or should I just take the intake manifold off and replace the hose? It's probably not much more work than it was to take the power steering off.

 

Here is the easy way to fix it.
Get a cap that fits the Nipple on the end of the intake.

The on the induction hose where it mounts to the turbo is a line with a small elbow and plastic line.

That is the one that you broke.
Cut and leave a little of the plastic line and the elbow.
Then run a hose from there to one of the slots in the vaccum tree on the intake and you are done.

 

The vaccum tree is on the other side of the intake manifold right? It has caps on some of the spots, so I should just remove one of them and run a hose from there to the turbo? The line you are talking about on the turbo is it the oneright under ths SAS Valve I just replaced that has a green clamp on it? It looks like it does almost a 180 degree turn and comes back toward the engine. I tried to take a picture, but the batteries are dead in the camera. It defiinitely feels like the same soft rubber hose where I brok the plastic.

 

See if this will help you understand correctly.

 

Got it back together and it's running fine. I did the vacuum line bypass you recommended. So far no CEL, but the Air Pump still has not kicked on. I do have a coolant leak somewhere though. I think it's around the thermostat. Great thing about these cars is that a light comes on to tell you that your coolant is low. It does not even seem to be that low when the light comes on. I had to stop and buy a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze and refill it twice in about 60 miles, but that's no big deal. I'm guessing the rubber seal under the thermostat slipped out of place. I'll get to that tonightor maybe over the weekend.

Well there is my answer: The rubber seal does not go under the thermostat, it goes around it. Bet that fixes the leak. At least I hope so. I put the gasket in the notch under the thermostat instead of around the edge. Won't make that mistake again.

 

Glad all is good I will try to find the spec's and post them on what makes the Air pump come on.