DIY exhaust manifold N/A
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
DIY exhaust manifold N/A
I just replaced the exhaust manifold on my V70 and thought I would make a DIY out of it.
First of all you will need to be able to get under the car. That means you must have a safe way of lifting your car and securing it on jack stands. I chose to drive up on my ramps, then set jack stands under the frame for extra security, I do not trust ramps alone.
You will need a new or used exhaust manifold, and new gaskets. I was able to use back all my old nuts and bolts, as they did not appear in too bad a shape.
You will need a mechanic's mirror to make this job smoothly. Without it things are going to get ruff and some words will be spoken
These are some of the tools I used. The air ratchet is not necessary, but makes removal go faster.
First, I parked the car the night before in the area I was going to work on it.
Then I removed the warm air hose and the 5 bolts, 10mm, holding the heat shield on.
Next I sprayed down the 4 studs and nuts on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe with penetrating oil (I use PB Blaster)
Then I sprayed down the exhaust manifold studs and nuts (10) in all.
Then I let it sit overnight.
I started with the 4nuts on the bottom of the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe. I used a long extension and a universal 13mm to remove the nuts. (you will have to be under the car for this)
Next, while working from the passenger side up top, I used a deep well 13mm on a ratchet to break lose the nuts (10) on the exhaust manifold. I then used my air rachet to buz them off.
Out of trial and error, I wound up back under the car, to seperate the manifold from the exhaust pipe. Take a large and small screw driver with you.( I mean lengths) You will have to push the exhaust back towards the rear of the car, and pry appart the exhaust manifold flange to the exhaust pipe.
With the manifold separated from the exhaust pipe, I removed it from the top.
I then had to plug the oxygen sensor hole on my new, used, manifold. I used a 14mm drain plug and some exhaust cement.
Install your new exhaust manifold gaskets. I used some exhaust cement to hold the exhaust pipe gasket to the flange. With out it the gasket kept falling off, and to get it on, from under the car required another hand.
Next install the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe first.
Set the manifold in from the top, then go under the car, push and pull to get the 4 studs to line up and into the exhaust pipe flange holes. Install the nuts. I torqued mine down to 18ftlbs, but if you dont have a torque wrench, snug em up. Do not over tighten and break.
While still under the car, push and shove to get the exhaust manifold onto the studs on the engine. Should go onto the studs with little effort. Then do the rest from up top.
Tighten down the 10 nuts on the exhaust manifold studs. I torqued these to 18ftlbs also. No torque wrench, snug these also. You do not want to over tighten these nuts and break off the studs. You then will have a nightmare of a job ahead of you.
Finally reinstall the heat shield and its 5 bolts, do not over tighten these either. Slide the warm air hose back on the heat shield, and your done.
Remove car from elevated point and start, check for leaks, be happy your done.
This is my old manifold it was leaking at the flex pipe
Hope this helps someone, it took me about 2.5 hrs or less on the driveway.
First of all you will need to be able to get under the car. That means you must have a safe way of lifting your car and securing it on jack stands. I chose to drive up on my ramps, then set jack stands under the frame for extra security, I do not trust ramps alone.
You will need a new or used exhaust manifold, and new gaskets. I was able to use back all my old nuts and bolts, as they did not appear in too bad a shape.
You will need a mechanic's mirror to make this job smoothly. Without it things are going to get ruff and some words will be spoken
These are some of the tools I used. The air ratchet is not necessary, but makes removal go faster.
First, I parked the car the night before in the area I was going to work on it.
Then I removed the warm air hose and the 5 bolts, 10mm, holding the heat shield on.
Next I sprayed down the 4 studs and nuts on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe with penetrating oil (I use PB Blaster)
Then I sprayed down the exhaust manifold studs and nuts (10) in all.
Then I let it sit overnight.
I started with the 4nuts on the bottom of the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe. I used a long extension and a universal 13mm to remove the nuts. (you will have to be under the car for this)
Next, while working from the passenger side up top, I used a deep well 13mm on a ratchet to break lose the nuts (10) on the exhaust manifold. I then used my air rachet to buz them off.
Out of trial and error, I wound up back under the car, to seperate the manifold from the exhaust pipe. Take a large and small screw driver with you.( I mean lengths) You will have to push the exhaust back towards the rear of the car, and pry appart the exhaust manifold flange to the exhaust pipe.
With the manifold separated from the exhaust pipe, I removed it from the top.
I then had to plug the oxygen sensor hole on my new, used, manifold. I used a 14mm drain plug and some exhaust cement.
Install your new exhaust manifold gaskets. I used some exhaust cement to hold the exhaust pipe gasket to the flange. With out it the gasket kept falling off, and to get it on, from under the car required another hand.
Next install the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe first.
Set the manifold in from the top, then go under the car, push and pull to get the 4 studs to line up and into the exhaust pipe flange holes. Install the nuts. I torqued mine down to 18ftlbs, but if you dont have a torque wrench, snug em up. Do not over tighten and break.
While still under the car, push and shove to get the exhaust manifold onto the studs on the engine. Should go onto the studs with little effort. Then do the rest from up top.
Tighten down the 10 nuts on the exhaust manifold studs. I torqued these to 18ftlbs also. No torque wrench, snug these also. You do not want to over tighten these nuts and break off the studs. You then will have a nightmare of a job ahead of you.
Finally reinstall the heat shield and its 5 bolts, do not over tighten these either. Slide the warm air hose back on the heat shield, and your done.
Remove car from elevated point and start, check for leaks, be happy your done.
This is my old manifold it was leaking at the flex pipe
Hope this helps someone, it took me about 2.5 hrs or less on the driveway.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Thanks to this DIY, I just did my Exhaust Manifold and wrote it up.
DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Exhaust Manifold Replacement
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=40032
DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Exhaust Manifold Replacement
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=40032
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
This is a great DIY, thanks for the great detail!
One question for you experts... is it worth it to just replace the manifold plus the gaskets, or should I give it a good look over and see if I can get away with just changing the gaskets? I don't want to spend more than I have to, but if it needs an exhaust manifold I'll put one in. It's the difference between $27 and $260 though (gaskets vs. entire manifold from FCP Groton) so I don't want to do it if I don't have to.
One question for you experts... is it worth it to just replace the manifold plus the gaskets, or should I give it a good look over and see if I can get away with just changing the gaskets? I don't want to spend more than I have to, but if it needs an exhaust manifold I'll put one in. It's the difference between $27 and $260 though (gaskets vs. entire manifold from FCP Groton) so I don't want to do it if I don't have to.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
