I've got an exhaust leak at the manifold and need to replace the gaskets. The Haynes manual says to unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold before removing manifold from the head. Do you really have to unbolt the exhaust pipe? I've done similar repairs on other cars and didn't have to. If I do, will I have to get a new gasket where the exhaust pipe and manifold meet?

 

I always undo the mounts for the exhaust from under the car then leave it attached and slide it off.

 

I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets today. I didn't have to undo the tailpipe from the manifold. I made the mistake and unhooked the heatshield thing that has a tube connected to it. Not sure what that is Btw. No reason to unhook that at all. Just use a 13 mm wrench that ratchets, it made the job real easy once I figured I should use that particular wrench. After I was done I started the car and noticed the ticking sound before is gone, souonds much better now.

 

Good deal j, I had a new tail pipe and muffler welded on my car last year. Within about a week the gasket that is located between the header manifold and the downpipe started leaking, so I had to replace that. I'm guessing it's because of all the movement it encountered when they were installing the new muffler. Hopefully yours will hold up well.

Dale

 

I have a 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo, 382,000 on the clock.

With a turbo car, would this still be the preferred method, it seems like a lot more work if you wanted to drop the exhaust with the turbo?

I just did my head gasket, and transmission, and I am almost there, with 375k and a nearly rebuilt motor. Everything works great, but I have a massive exhaust leak at the manifold because I goofed and put the head back in without the exhaust manifold bolts in first and I had to do it in place

I spread the manifold away from the head. I then used a piece of NEW hard vacuum line, and slid it into the exhaust manifold, then I slipped the gasket down in betweed the gap, and the vacuum line held it there while I used a magnet to spin it around, then plop the stud in. I used 2 nuts on the bolt to get it snug in the head. I thought it worked as well as it could. I have everything torqued to spec, but yet have a massive leak in exhaust port #2.

Right now, it sounds like a tractor, and I can feel massive amounts of air coming out of it, which im not sure how, and tightening them a few lb more made no difference.

I want to drop the manifold and exhaust to make sure these gaskets and studs are right. But with the turbo, it seems like a big job again.

Am I on the right track here, or is the tractor motor sound ( i mean super loud, like if there was no exhaust at all) only caused by a gasket on backwards or something?

Anyone have a picture with the gaskets mounted on the head? I did check to make sure it looked like the gasket fully matched the port, but being close to the last one I did, it was late, and I could have goofed, its the only thing I could think that would cause that much air with new gaskets and proper torque?

Feel like a doof asking these goofball questions, but im tired, just want to drive this thing again!

 

A) this is a 9 year old thread you posted on

B) this is the 240/740/940 rear wheel drive section of volvoforums, you should post on the 850 section for FWD 5 cyl cars, they are complettely different beasts.

 

Gotcha, But alas, the beast lives! I am embarrased to say it was in fact the last gasket flipped so as to block the last exhaust port. Goofball move. But it is running GREAT now.

 

cool! i remember my 850

 

I know some people who knew some people who had one of these.