Hello, I have a 98 volvo v70 cx awd. For the past year, I have been having battery problems. The first time, was during thanksgiving, after i left my car at the airport and the battery died, completely, i got a jump and then it died while driving home. I had to call triple a for a tow. The mechanics at the triple a place couldn't figure out what was wrong so they charge the battery completely. The second time i was at home and the battery died, i got a jump and it was fine. the third time, i called triple a, they said the batter was dead, so i recieved a new battery, guarantied to last 6 years, it was pretty expensive, and the mechanics could not find any other problem. I has died again.

I, when locking my car up, do not leave any doors ajar, leave any lights on, or anything else that could externally drain power.

I would appreciate any input as to why this is happening. thank you again.

 

There is an electrical drain in some circuit. The problem is going to be finding out which one (and its most likely one). Unless you are really good with electric diagnosis, I would leave this one to a specialist. Even if you isolate the circuit that's sucking the juice out of the battery, you're going to have to chase the wiring to see if its bad, and if not, test the solenoid/switch to the device to see if its bad, etc. I have never enjoyed doing this, or had too much success attempting it.

Possibly, you have a bad alternator or voltage regulator. But since there's no information on how far/long you drove with your new battery, anything I'd venture is simply a possibility.

If your car is anything like my 06, it has way too many circuits and circuit boards to be the subject of easy electric/electronic diagnosis. Do check the obvious like the cooling and ventilation fans that make noise when "on", however.

 

Oh, yes, sorry, I got the new battery about a month ago.

 

Then you are getting some charge into the battery. Maybe not enough, but some. I would take this someplace where auto electric diagnosis can be made. The Volvo problem, per other postings here, is that Volvo electrics are complicated by several circuit boards. Then you're into electronics. Hopefully, your problem is a simple as an underperforming alternator or a haywire voltage regulator.

I have never attempted the art and science of chasing circuits into a circuit board. Somehow, you have a circuit that never shuts off and there is some small current drain all the time. Could be the alarm, could be into a computer, could be lighting, power seat, fan(s). Not likely to be a big current user such as lighting. That a new battery lasted a month tells me that the drain is small. Way too many possibilities to list. That's why a pro with real diagnostic skills is needed here.

 

Best advice would be to take it someplace that specializes in auto charging system diagnosis; assuming this is not your forte.

From your symptoms you either have a parasitic draw that's above normal, or an intermittent issue with your charging system. I assume your charging/alternator light is working?

Anyone with a DVOM and knowledge can diagnose the automotive charging system competantly.

If excessivie parasitic draw is the issue, ck the glovebox light as the most likely candidate. Otherwise, like malaka said, the search is on...

 

Hello, You can disconnect the battery's neg. cable and put the meter (set to mVDC) inline with it and the terminal. You'll be reading the voltage of the leak if it's occurring at that time. With a helper, or long leads for your meter, you can pull fuses and the plugs of componants, one at a time. If you see a voltage drop to zero, or very near zero, you have found a problem. During this period have you been recharging your battery while at home, say? I ask only to get a feel for how long you can go between drain-downs. Get to work. Kira

 

One of the most common failures is the glove box switch that leaves the light on with the door closed (no refrigerator jokes please). To check just open the door and check how hot it is! Other than that, a pull the fuse by fuse operation with an amp meter installed as per Kera's suggestion (it's a good one)!

Jerry