Like the tile says, I bought it last night. it has relatively lower mileage with only 90k miles on it. Looks like it was properly maintained and has the etm recall done.

My main concern is the common problem with the transmissions. First of all, is there a preventive maintenance to keep the transmissions clean and avoid the failure? Suppose I drain and fill the transmission (not flush) with every oil change. I dont mind spending the extra cash if it will definately help avoid problems.

Also, I know this topic has been discussed so much before, but I am confused still as to which fluid is used for my transmission. It is a t5 auto with tiptronic ( i think thats what its called) lol.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

great purchase and my favourite of all the volvos

goes hard and doesnt suffer the problems with AWD (weight and all of that weight is expensive to fix when it breaks or doesnt work as intended)

I have two of them. one has ~110K /KMS the other ~130K KMS.
couple of things -when you "drain" the auto only 1litre of oil comes out so probably a waste of time, failure is due to a shuttle valve which was faulty by design and flushing removes any gunk left behind, draining on the other hand will only remove what is suspended in the oil.

MUST use genuine volvo oil in the auto -lots of talk about 3309(??) oil but in my opinion spend the extra $20 and be sure you've got the right stuff, if you don't it will fail very quickly!

Failures Ive had so far
-MAP sensor $300 AUD to diagnose and fix
-top spring mounts (replaced with HD today -$190 in parts)
-rear view mirror (still putting up with it) -points to the sky every time I get in the car
and really expensive to fix!!!
-rear sway bar link had new one fitted, lasted two weeks and failed at the weld (will be re-fixed tomorrow).
trim and speaker rattles -working through them one at a time!
-broken fog light mount -plastic welded it back together success so far.

Symptoms of auto failure - going into neutral unexpectedly, slipping, not changing gears as it should, ie missing them or clunking into gear.

One of mine has had new auto fitted the other not.
The one with lower K's still has original unit and plays up on occasion -particularly during low speed RH turns when cold, will drop back a gear with an almighty thump.
-solution wait for it to get the gear then push the throttle again.

in all a great car, both of mine converted to LPG one uses JTG liquid gas system and makes another 20KW than stock on the gas as it goes in very cold, the other a sequential vapor system which also goes as well as if not better than on hi octane petrol.

Both cars are good for 0-60 in well under 7seconds and
oh and LPG gas costs......in your money USD.....$1.32 a gallon! laughing all the way to the bank

what more could you ask of the family hauler?

 

LPR Carl suggestion of Volvo fluid is okay if you want to spend the money, but I've been running the Mobile 3309 for the last 50K miles. That's not very much when thinking of 200-300K miles, but it' s where I'm at. I have read lots of forums, and the concensus is 3309 is the same as OEM, and so is toyota type IV. When I do my change I just attach a different hose to the back of the radiator (return line) start the car and pump out 2 quarts. Refill, and repeat until the drain fluid is nice and red. I'd say your biggest worry is the ETM. Mines still good at plus 100K, but I do wonder........

Jerry

 

I agree 3309 is the same stuff but can be very hard to find, hence for the 1st timer the hit to the wallet also acts as a good incentive not to mis treat the box.

ie dont tow with this car, dont race it, dont do revlimiter dump into "D" etc!

Causes a high level of mechanical sympathy to be applied after you've shelled out $300 in oil!!!!!!

Karl

 

I agree 3309 is the same stuff but can be very hard to find, hence for the 1st timer the hit to the wallet also acts as a good incentive not to mis treat the box.

ie dont tow with this car, dont race it, dont do revlimiter dump into "D" etc!

Causes a high level of mechanical sympathy to be applied after you've shelled out $300 in oil!!!!!!

Karl

 

3309 is definitely the correct stuff to use. I did a flush at 140k and it was pretty dark. It was easy to get the 3309 from carquest. Not sure if they have those around where you are. 3309 is also Toyota T-IV repackaged. They sell it pretty cheap at toyota dealers. A lot cheaper than what the Volvo dealers will try to swindle you out of claiming it's a synthetic oil.