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Throttle Body Replaced - No Software!

  #21  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:33 AM
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Ah good im glad i got the right pins
the battery is old and i dont think its upto the job.
ill pick my car up later today and see if this is the problem.
If its not i may have a long trek ahead of me trying to fault find
 
  #22  
Old 10-01-2010, 05:13 PM
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done my voltage reading and it was 2.3 volts
so traced wires back and all seems well there so took ecu to pieces and found a burnt out track.
 
  #23  
Old 12-21-2010, 01:44 PM
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Does anybody know what the voltage should be across pins 5 & 6? I have what I thought was an ETM failure, but since it only occurs in cold weather at initial start up, I'm beginning to wonder if it might not be the voltage drop...
 
  #24  
Old 01-05-2011, 05:24 PM
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I'm having similar issue with my 2001 V70XC with a slight jumping with the idling and thud sound or jolting when I release my foot from the brake then press the accelerator then at about 10mph it seems to be ok. The power seems a little off but I don't really know whats going on.

I'm trying to figure out the issues with some postings say ETM and others say MAF sensor and this one saying its the battery or voltage. I saw this post and was intrigued. I know very few things about working on cars...especially Swedish. I'm having trouble following where the ground connections are and the wiring and the things that need to be checked for voltage. Can you guys help me with the most basic terms possible? Also, how in the world do I get to the ETM...so many hoses, wires, etc etc. in the way. While checking the mains parts I don't want to goof up the surrounding parts in the process. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!
 
  #25  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikeface View Post
I'm having similar issue with my 2001 V70XC with a slight jumping with the idling and thud sound or jolting when I release my foot from the brake then press the accelerator then at about 10mph it seems to be ok. The power seems a little off but I don't really know whats going on.

I'm trying to figure out the issues with some postings say ETM and others say MAF sensor and this one saying its the battery or voltage. I saw this post and was intrigued. I know very few things about working on cars...especially Swedish. I'm having trouble following where the ground connections are and the wiring and the things that need to be checked for voltage. Can you guys help me with the most basic terms possible? Also, how in the world do I get to the ETM...so many hoses, wires, etc etc. in the way. While checking the mains parts I don't want to goof up the surrounding parts in the process. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!
It sounds like your ETM. When the ETM gets dirty it puts too much load on the throttle servo and so when you press on the gas just a bit there isn't enough power to turn the throttle plate. It could also be low voltage to the ETM do to either a bad battery or a bad connection.

The ETM should be cleaned and lubricated as regular, like 50 - 60k mile, maintenance. You have to remove it to clean it but the wire runs behind the starter so it's easiest to unbolt it and clean it in the engine compartment. Clean the throttle plate, the shaft and the holes that the shaft passes into. There are nitrile orings on the shaft that must be lubricated once the cleaning is done. use a Q tip soaked with some thin pure synthetic oil to work oil in around the shaft. You can move the plate back and forth to hep the oil get to the orings.

here is a vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Zaxtm-hdyo this guy does a pretty good job but neglects to lubricate. The ETM is not a piece of junk either. it just needs cleaning and lubricating.

Also check you battery. This car and all of its systems are very voltage sensitive. and connections if you don't have success with the above.
 

Last edited by Bobec; 01-06-2011 at 07:27 AM.
  #26  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:52 PM
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Default ETM Intermittent failure

I have had intermittent ETM failure on my 2001 V70 T5, it has put me in some pretty tight spots stalling in intersections etc. I have diagnostic OBD2 equipent and car show no codes.

What I do get now and have been fighting with is on the instrument panel, bottom left corner window says “Engine system service required” and orange triangle in center stays on. After cleaning grounds, I disconnected battery, then reconnected and restarted. Both triangle and service required message off on first power up, also no throttle response. I wiggled connector at accelerator pedal device while engine running on first power up and got throttle response afterward with both lights still out. Restarted car, all seemed to work fine. Shut down after 2 minutes of testing throttle response. Shut down and tried again, this time (3rd power-up) got the triangle and the message. Holding down trip reset button for about 8 seconds reveals a code, I got “44” in that bottom left window where the “engine system service required” message was. Internet is a little short on reliable information about this. Does anyone know what the “44” translates to? I found one post that referred to this being the ETM failure. I had same results with two throttle bodies now so I truly believe I am up against something else, like poor grounds or failing connections. thanks to this old post, I am going to do the voltage drop test tomorrow.
 
  #27  
Old 03-30-2011, 07:44 PM
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Default throttle body issue 2001 s80 2.9L non turbo

Throttle body replace at dealer under recall in dec 08 at 130k miles due to poor performance. Now at 176k, will only operate in limp mode. Local mechanic gets code for throttle body potentiometer.
Class action settlement was set up to replace them for free up to 10 yrs from inservice date or 200k miles. My in service date was 10 yrs and 5 months ago.
Car is still at the shop and have been intrigued by all the good info from Bobec. Was wondering if the pin set up is the same on mine as the picture posted earlier???
Can anyone explain the "earth connection to block" point. I would like to check that too but not sure what they were exactly talking about.

All feedback sincerely appreicated.
 
  #28  
Old 04-01-2011, 09:31 AM
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This is a great post! You out smarted the deeler...thats like finding gold Haa!
I have a possible solution to getting a picture of your wiring diagram. There is a free program called "snag it" that take good quality screen shots assuming you can bring the diagram up on a pc with snag it running in the back ground.
 
  #29  
Old 04-03-2011, 11:04 PM
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Does anybody know what the voltage should be across pins 5 & 6?
Is it possible to take the two plastic side covers off, to inspect the pot tracks, without breaking the plastic?
Any insight to the removal is appreciated.
Also, my OBDII reader has a code erase button, but the P0121 code does not go away. Is there a way to reset the fault codes without an OBDII device?
 
  #30  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:17 AM
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Hi -
Voltage on pins 5&6 should be V+ (12v) if its not check the earth connection brown wire thats fixed to the block just behind the alt - mine was 3v & poor earth - done 22k since with no issues, make sure you check accros 5& 6 for 12v... and a visual check on the earth is a good idea as you may still get 12v off load....

If the self tapper holding the earth is poor there is a blind M8 hole nearby... find a short m8 bolt & use that

The code wont clear till you cure the fault....

Do you get EML light or ETM light ?
 
  #31  
Old 04-04-2011, 09:59 PM
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Steve1564, thank you for the input on the voltage across pins 5 and 6. I had asked this previously and had never gotten a definitive answer. This should help the community when trying to resole the ETM issue.

Jerry
 
  #32  
Old 04-06-2011, 01:43 PM
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Default Voltage OK, but still bad idling

Measured pins 5&6 and see >12V. Also checked block to chassie ground wire, seems fine. Hooked up my second car with jumpers from its battery to the Volvo + connection at the fuse box and - connection to the block, still starting up with rough idling and limp mode. I have also cleaned the throttle body (did not lube the O-rings but the throttle moved very smooth).

Now I plan to open it up to look at the pot's and see if they are worn. Has anyone done this? I am afraid to break the plastic end pieces if if try to pry them open too hard. I have tried with a knife blade but them seem really stuck. Is it just to use more force and pry them open or some other tricks?
 
  #33  
Old 04-06-2011, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Il Dude View Post
Measured pins 5&6 and see >12V. Also checked block to chassie ground wire, seems fine. Hooked up my second car with jumpers from its battery to the Volvo + connection at the fuse box and - connection to the block, still starting up with rough idling and limp mode. I have also cleaned the throttle body (did not lube the O-rings but the throttle moved very smooth).

Now I plan to open it up to look at the pot's and see if they are worn. Has anyone done this? I am afraid to break the plastic end pieces if if try to pry them open too hard. I have tried with a knife blade but them seem really stuck. Is it just to use more force and pry them open or some other tricks?
I opened mine up yesterday. Just be careful nothing broke. I opened it with a thin flat blade slowly. The connections to the board from the throttle servo and tps looked ****ty. I beleive there was a rubber casing that had hardened on mine and it broke. I don't believe the joints where soildered, they look to be contacts and they looked minorly corroded. I'm gonna put it back together this evening and see what happens. I'll probably have it rebuilt for $200 by B&B.
 
  #34  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:56 AM
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Guess i was quite lucky that the old boy who had the car before me had a load of stuff replaced - Pedal, ETM, and sevral sensors, i did do some looking on the web and found quite a lot of info, common consensus is the pot tracks wear, now i love a make do & mend as much as the next bloke but to get a reliable fix your going to have to change the pots at least, probably the whole ETM.... a tempory fix might be to clean the pots & wipers but i think it would be just that if at all.... Some years ago i was a tv engineer & a quick fix on worn remote control pads was to rub them with a soft pencil (thus restoring some resistance to the track) but this is different gravy... guess i would try it if i was stranded in the desert...

Have a look below, my plan would be - find the company that supplies the reststive tracks, phone em up & see if you can get some - changing the whole pot looks simple enough....

Found this & thanks to whoever posted it....


 
  #35  
Old 04-08-2011, 09:02 AM
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Some great info being accumulated here. Thanks to all members.
-Andrew
 
  #36  
Old 04-12-2011, 02:55 PM
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just refreshing this thread.

Very informative. Good reading for '99-'02 volvo owners
 
  #37  
Old 04-13-2011, 03:38 AM
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Finally found the whole article that the above pics came from....

Thanks To Vexed volvo....

http://www.ip-wizards.ch/volvo/VEXED...arelli-ETM.pdf
 
  #38  
Old 07-29-2011, 08:01 AM
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Default 2000 S80 ETM replacement & reprogramming

Darn! Wish I would have seen this thread a couple of days earlier! My car started running rough and went into the "Limp Mode" with "Stop safely and restart" message. Thought it was the ETM software. Called Volvo and they said the software update had NOT been done on my car so I took it to the dealer to have it done. Service manager called and told me he tried twice but it would not accept a load. The ETM is bad! $1100 for a new one plus labor to replace it! More that I had to invest in that car at the moment. Called around and found a White Label ETM for $100. Went to the dealer, installed it and the car started and ran okay. Had them load the software ($63 plus $120 labor) and I was out driving it again yesterday. I did not know that the "Yellow Label" was just upgraded software! I thought it was a newer redesigned ETM. Is that accurate? Anyway, atleast I now have some info if that happens again. I guess I can try and dis-assemble the ETM and clean it really well making sure there is no corrosion etc. I tried taking the end covers off but didn't want to break the plastic covers. Any tips? Also, how do I remove the front aluminum cover plate? Looks like it was worked on before; has gray RTV around it. Thanks to everyone for posting all the information already. Any pointers, comments, suggestions etc would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #39  
Old 11-04-2011, 05:33 PM
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Default At last some time off....

Phew... what a year - this is the first time I've had off for months -

The old girl is still going strong 198K now and i have another with you guessed it ETM issues, this time (on the way home from buying it) i decided to stop & remove the pipe from the etm - stuck my finger in and manually operated the butterfly, jumped in and the car has been fine ever since !! -

On a slightly more serious note I think i have located a source of contactless pots - there the same ones used by rebuilders, I'm waiting on some samples & i'll try them out & report here If it all pans out I will be offering a repair service for around £120 (feedback required please), 12mth gtee and possibly a DIY option (basic electronic skills required)...
The bonus is you wont have to reprogram the ecu -

It's nice to be home....

Steve sleep now....
 
  #40  
Old 11-06-2011, 04:15 PM
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Steve, what are you saying now....

the correct voltage and secured ground to the ETM is not enough, that indeed the MagnettiMarelli ETM is a piece of sh*t. LOL
 

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