Throttle Body Replaced - No Software!
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.. It's a good idea to check it under load - (think thats already been mentioned here).. Also if the butterfly is restricted at any part of its travel it will confuse the ETM & act as if the pots are bad...
The unit is actually very, VERY well engineered, the only issue is with the potentiometers once this is resolved its fine,
as a basic test -
1. switch on ign
2. Check volts on pin 5&6 of ETM Plug (pref with etm plugged in)
If <11v then check the earth connection (brown wire fixes to block next to air con pump).. if 11v> go to step 3
3. listen to TB - If its making a whineing sound clean & lube it !!
4. If it still throws up codes replace or re-build
Steve
The unit is actually very, VERY well engineered, the only issue is with the potentiometers once this is resolved its fine,
as a basic test -
1. switch on ign
2. Check volts on pin 5&6 of ETM Plug (pref with etm plugged in)
If <11v then check the earth connection (brown wire fixes to block next to air con pump).. if 11v> go to step 3
3. listen to TB - If its making a whineing sound clean & lube it !!
4. If it still throws up codes replace or re-build
Steve
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Hi Jda...
No it's a P1.... they both are (2000) - interesting that they both were supplied by the same dealer in 2000 ! .....maybe it was YK2B
... Think the TB on the latest one just need's a clean as its been fine since i stuck my finger in it !
At the time it was faulty i got:-
P0225
P0222
P1670
P1600
P1620
P1610
These have cleared & not returned
No it's a P1.... they both are (2000) - interesting that they both were supplied by the same dealer in 2000 ! .....maybe it was YK2B
... Think the TB on the latest one just need's a clean as its been fine since i stuck my finger in it !
At the time it was faulty i got:-
P0225
P0222
P1670
P1600
P1620
P1610
These have cleared & not returned
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 182
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From: Sarasota, FL
but I am glad that things are working out for you.
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How do you overhaul this without breaking the contacts / green putty?
I bought a 2008 (yellow label) throttle body and found out online it wouldn't work in my 2001 Volvo S60 (white label) because of the software tied to the VIN of the vehicle. So I opened it up as the references show in this posting. I have the new potentiometer resistor films and "fingers" out of the end caps. Here's the issue - how do I take the end caps off the "bad" unit without breaking the contacts, as that green "potentiometer putty" is like glue holding the thing together.
Do you have to break the contacts out, remove all the putty under the top metal tin, the resolder? Or is their an easier way?
I'd rather let someone else do this if so. Don't want to be without my car too long... Thanks!
http://www.ip-wizards.ch/volvo/VEXED...arelli-ETM.pdf
Do you have to break the contacts out, remove all the putty under the top metal tin, the resolder? Or is their an easier way?
I'd rather let someone else do this if so. Don't want to be without my car too long... Thanks!
http://www.ip-wizards.ch/volvo/VEXED...arelli-ETM.pdf
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The yellow sticker means it had a firmware up date not that it was replaced. As far as recalls go check the internet or right here on the forum
https://volvoforums.com/forum/general-volvo-chat-5/recall-sources-all-models-12721/
https://volvoforums.com/forum/general-volvo-chat-5/recall-sources-all-models-12721/
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Bobec...
Thanks Man,
sorry for the late reply (working away)
You did indeed steer me in the right direction - (batt volt drop ect,) mind you even volvo diagnosed it as the ETM, It was only when i measured the volts at the plug (ex tv so usually just connect the fluke neg lead to the battery) that i found the problem, Guess there's some politics regarding the ETM issue, Mines brand new so works well, but i cant really understand why they didnt use contactless pots.. - and yes your right the Magnetti ETM is very well engineered and should last a very long time even with its wiper pots, and let's be honest if you had a bill for a part that cost say £400 after 100k or so would it seem like a big deal ? I mean it cant be much more expensive than a set of tyers or an exhaust
Still cant help felling sorry for the old boy that i bought it off... not sorry enough to give him any more money of course
, but i think i'll add him to my christmass card list
Has anyone sourced the potentiometers ? I can see it being a massive job to change them >?
Thanks Man,
sorry for the late reply (working away)
You did indeed steer me in the right direction - (batt volt drop ect,) mind you even volvo diagnosed it as the ETM, It was only when i measured the volts at the plug (ex tv so usually just connect the fluke neg lead to the battery) that i found the problem, Guess there's some politics regarding the ETM issue, Mines brand new so works well, but i cant really understand why they didnt use contactless pots.. - and yes your right the Magnetti ETM is very well engineered and should last a very long time even with its wiper pots, and let's be honest if you had a bill for a part that cost say £400 after 100k or so would it seem like a big deal ? I mean it cant be much more expensive than a set of tyers or an exhaust
Still cant help felling sorry for the old boy that i bought it off... not sorry enough to give him any more money of course
, but i think i'll add him to my christmass card list Has anyone sourced the potentiometers ? I can see it being a massive job to change them >?
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PAY IT FORWARD - kudos to BOBEC
With all due respect.... You're welcome.
I mean where did you get the supply voltage idea?
Now If you want to help all Volvo owners escape this F&^%ing witch hunt that is going on on Matthew's site you can make it known that bobec from volvoforums steered you in the right direction.
I mean where did you get the supply voltage idea?
Now If you want to help all Volvo owners escape this F&^%ing witch hunt that is going on on Matthew's site you can make it known that bobec from volvoforums steered you in the right direction.
ETM on my 2001 V70XC causes rpm drop? lights flicker but other than that the wagon runs great.
I expect that this ETM may have a distruptive failure some day so for my part I totally appreciate your expertise BOBEC.
2001 V70XC 155K
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Swapping ETM's from different models & years
I picked up a couple of Yellow label ETM's from the wrecking yards & (for my 2000 S80 2.9l) it has been a plug & play (drive) deal. No faults, codes or driveability issues. I used one XEMODEX ETM from an 03 C70 & it worked great without any issues, faults or driveability problems. Tried 2.8l Turbo ETM with no problems. Not once did I have the software loaded. I also installed one with the "Sacer" contactless mod that I did & it worked. Why is my car working fine when I hear other are having issues? Is it the year or computer of the 2000 S80 that allows me to swap ETM's?
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ETMs from boneyard
Thanks for the 411 GOLD!Paying OEM prices and labor rates at VOLVO dealer for electronics on a $4,500 16-year-old albeit SWEETHEART of an XC70 - is like a kick in the groin IMHO. Have a blessed day.
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hi sorry to revive this topic but this seems like my problem.
2001 S60 2.0t runs fine until it get to temperature then just bogs down and theres no power anymore, checked all vacuum tubes no leaks (boost is at 0.5 Bar solid) replaced MAF and lambda Probe, cleaned the ETM, checked all plugs and coils, theres no errors in Vadis or in the dash.
but as soon as the engine temperatures gauge reaches the midle, theres no power its like I don´t have a turbo anymore, but it doesn't always does this I recently made a trip 100miles going way I had this symptoms coming back all was good... even installed a Turbo gauge to keep track of this.
at idle the revs are spot on 900rpm +/- with no fluctuation but the engine rocks it self enough to rock the car back and forward.
anyone with a picture of this ground wire? is it hidden?
thanks for any help
2001 S60 2.0t runs fine until it get to temperature then just bogs down and theres no power anymore, checked all vacuum tubes no leaks (boost is at 0.5 Bar solid) replaced MAF and lambda Probe, cleaned the ETM, checked all plugs and coils, theres no errors in Vadis or in the dash.
but as soon as the engine temperatures gauge reaches the midle, theres no power its like I don´t have a turbo anymore, but it doesn't always does this I recently made a trip 100miles going way I had this symptoms coming back all was good... even installed a Turbo gauge to keep track of this.
at idle the revs are spot on 900rpm +/- with no fluctuation but the engine rocks it self enough to rock the car back and forward.
anyone with a picture of this ground wire? is it hidden?
thanks for any help
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So update on this, bought a "new" ETM with yellow sticker and new gasket tested it and the problem continued, I gave up and went to the dealer, they said that you couldn't use a used ETM on this cars that it had to be a new one and programmed in the car that they would take the old one and refurbish it, total cost about 600€ I didn't believe them so I went to visit a guy that works and refurbishes volvo ETM he tested both ETM's and they were ok tested right in front of me even the software of the yellow ETM was correct for my car so no update needed, he did notice an error on the VVT exhaust sensor, and said that possibly this could be the fault so i took it out and spraid the hell out of it with brake cleaner and the problem just went way!
Later I found a used unit on ebay bought it and left it sitting in degreasser to take all the gunk out and cleaned it really good bought a new gasket and the problem hasn't returned ever since.
total cost about 40€ and a good clean.
I will never blame the ETM again.
Later I found a used unit on ebay bought it and left it sitting in degreasser to take all the gunk out and cleaned it really good bought a new gasket and the problem hasn't returned ever since.
total cost about 40€ and a good clean.
I will never blame the ETM again.
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