hmmm.....most of the gasket stayed on the water pump...the gasket remove got most of it......does it have to be perfectly clean? I had thin residue near the top dowel were it was hard to scrape off and the gasket remover wouldn't stay......lastly what are the torque values of the water pump....couldn't find them anywhere.

 

I would try to get it out even if you have to carefully use a small screwdriver or a razor blade.

17Nm or 12FTLBS on the bolts.

 

....I had 2nd thoughts and took the WP off...I have a dremel with a flex extension....I used it to finishing sand paper to the the last bit.....good thing too....the was a bit of gasket remove in the bolt holes....it didn't get on the gasket...but it started to disolve the loctite on the bolts.....I took a guess and torgued the bolts to 20Nm....should I back them off and retorque?......All that's left is the belt =)

 

Leave them at 20.

 

damn....I might have broke something

The timing belt is on, everthing is in sync, and the tension is all set...... but when I'm manually turning the crank at certain spots....I'm feeling binding......crap I don't remember it doing that before I took it off......I think I might have done (bent?) something trying to pry the crank pulley off.

It's not just hard to push, but it feels like a little push back...and then it gets easy....until I hit that spot....It's definitely not the TBelt.

I'm afraid to start the engine.....

 

.....I think I found the problem....the 1st time I tried taking off the the crank pulley I forgot the 4 bolts....I wacked it really good at the 6 o'clock position....after that I remembered the bolts and took them off......

I think the part the crank pulley is bolted to is causing the binding.....can it be taken off w/o messing up the timing?.....

 

I've been turning the crank trying to see if it's binding.....the part the crank pulley bolts to doesn't look misaligned in anyway.......god I hope I'm just being paranoid.

 

I think your chances are better at breaking the pulley than bending it. When turning the engine over by hand, it does get to a certain point where you have to put some extra effort in to get it to go further ... it's called compression You can always take the spark plugs out, then it should turn quite a bit easier and if it turns all the way round, then you should be set.

 

uhh..yeah...exactly.........I sorta feel retarded......but I'll pull the plugs tomorrow.....just in case......I just don't remember this much resistance when I was setting up the marks before removing the t-belt........I've taken everthing else off....might as well check the plugs =)....at this point I'd rather feel dumb than have any more problems.

 

If you were hitting a valve it would pretty much lock up. Yes there is some resistance when cranking. I have been turning the motor over by hand on some cars trying to do it fats with a long ratchet and had it kick back and slip the ratchet out of my hands.

 

...well...got it buttoned-up...and nothing fell off....not sure it was the wisest repair to do the 1st time on an unfamiliar car, but thanks to this board ....especially Tech, I was able to tackle it with some confidence. Having done once...I think I can do it again confidently do it in 4-6hrs....instead of the 2 days it took me[:-].

I'll add some of my lessons learned to the pile of info. later this week.

 

NOW I understand why you couldn't see the marker when I was explaining it to you. It looks like you still had the timing belt cover on when you took the crank pulley off. You can't see the marker with the cover on from the top, but with the belt and cover off, you can see it fine from the top with a small flashlight. You didn't have to take it off but you have a new tool now, so it was worth it. I was very close to buying an impact gun myself.

I wish I would have been online when all this was going down.

How does it run? Mine ran much smoother with the new belts and pulleys. I also have a new surpentine belt. The Goodyear brand really grips those pulleys well as they advertise.

 

Hey Mike,

Which picture are you looking at? I had the cover off...there's just two right...the top and front..... now that I know WHAT to look for I can find it easy.

As far a the drive....it feels the same, but I've only had the car 4 months and my wife drives it mostly. It is just the peace-of-mind knowing that the TB is new. Mine looked like the ones Tech posted...lotsa cracking.

Thanks again for sharing your extra tips before I started this. I don't think I would have started this project if you hadn't reassured me it could be done....and I wouldn't have finished w/o Techs help.

 

Im glad all went well and it is done and out of the way.

 

Here are the marks on the crank and engine....it isn't lined up, but if you look closely you can see the V 'cuts' on 2 crank teeth on the engine side. Now that I know what to look for, I can clearly see the mark on the engine w/o taking off the crank pulley. The mark is sitting on what looks like a raised guard/guide for the timing belt closest to the tensioner on the corner.



[IMG]local://upfiles/18246/9D5D7BF3FAAB4B71817434BD0692CB5B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Here is a picture with the crank pulley off from the wheel well. The line-of-sight to align the crank and engine is blocked by the fender wall. Even so, I would probably take off the crank pulley to ease the install of the belt.......it only took me 2 tries


[IMG]local://upfiles/18246/A710E651B8B44B82AEFDA401208F0105.jpg[/IMG]