And the AC doesn't work (or seems not to. I set temp on LO and cranked the fan, I can't tell if it's cooling or not, outside temp is 70ish.

Today after getting into the car the dash temp dropped to -40F and then read -----F and the check engine light came on. I cleared the code, and it worked again briefly, at 60F, which might have been true, but then it dropped back to -40F.

I tried removing and reseating the door connector. I didn't cut the wire enclosure to see if any wires were cracked.

Anyone been through this before? How does one remove the sensor in the mirror housing? Pull the glass? The replacement (part listed online) looks like it doesn't have a connector on the end, do you cut and splice? What is the likelihood it's a bad air temp sensor based on the random temp behavior (and not a total failure)?

Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Aaron

 

I ordered the sensor and will try to replace tomorrow. AC does not work, which is a bummer, because it's hot out

 

The compressor will not operate if it is told it's below xx degrees - the complete mirror comes off (after the door panel is removed) to be able to replace the sensor.

 

Thanks, I had a feeling the compressor was a safety issue. Bummer I have to remove the door panel, I've done that project once before, not my favorite. I was hoping it was just behind the glass.

 

I guess it depends on how long the wiring pigtails are - I've never done one with that type of sensor. The earlier cars plug into a connector under the door panel. And If I were going to splice something - I'd rather it be in a protected area than simply under the mirror cover.

 

Just replaced the sensor, unfortunately, no change in behavior. Still getting temp errors. Inspected the door wiring and don't see any breaks or wear on the wires.

The sensor can be replaced without removing the mirror from the car, pop off the glass, there are 4 torx t10 screws to remove, and then the middle section of the mirror is held on by 3 clips, which allows for easy removal. i removed the painted outside as well from behind the mirror, there's two clips you can press apart and then it just pulls off. i wired in the new sensor and soldered the wires, taped it, no change... back to the drawing board.

 

Sensor is in left mirror - should be able to test it's resistance at a connector outside of the door.

 

wow, thanks!! I'll go try that.

 

Thanks again! Do you know where I would find 74/301. I could not figure it out from the diagram...

I was able to test the connector on the body at 17/18 and got about 4.8 volts (so I think the wires to the door are fine). I am assuming the ECM sends that voltage to the sensor and depending on the temperature, resistance varies, which effects voltage reading at the ECM??

I could not reach my tester ends to 17/18 on the door connector pins, angle was off, I would have to figure out something else, but I checked resistance inside the door on the green connector (2 light brown wires) that mate to the white/white black wires that run to the door, and I am not getting any ohms. It's a warm day, 80F, car probably hotter than that in sun. The old sensor out of car reads 1400 ohms.

 

 

Thanks. I rechecked the resistance at the green connector and didn’t get any resistance, must have touched my finger before or something random. Two testers show no resistance. The old sensor reads 1400 ohms out of car. Ill check sensor wires from mirror and sensor and 74/301 and see what i learn, appreciate the help!

 

It appears i do not have continuity in one of the wires from the sensor in the mirror that runs to the green connector 🫤

one is ok, one records nada

 

Broken sensor wire found in mirror where it rotates along with broken mirror heater wire


now going to try to fix it

 

Fixed!!! Thank you everyone for help!!

spliced broken wires in mirr

or

 

But ALAS, my SRS airbag light is on, I can't open the door from inside the car, and the lock post doesn't go up and down in the door panel properly

 

Scan the car (including the abs system) and discover what code is stored in srs. And hopefully just erase it. From what i remember the lock stick is a pain to get reinstalled, sorry.

 

Yeah, I guess I'll have to buy another scanner, my FIXD will clear the check engine, but not the SRS. $80 on amazon for an SRS compatible scanner. Probably worth it, since I may be triggering more SRS codes in the future.