Oxygen sensors (front and rear) for Volvo XC60
Hello to Volvo community. I have a Volvo XC60 (mfg 2012). Looking to replace my O2 sensors (both front and rear). The costs estimate from local Volvo agent is around S$ 1,200. I started to google and found stockist offering after market parts at 50% of the price.
I like to get your valuable insights on your experience with after markets parts for O2 sensors. Are they good substitutes for the original parts? Will my Volvo "recognize" these after market parts or will they trigger faulty signal every so often, giving me endless headaches thereafter?
Thanks in advance. Chang
I like to get your valuable insights on your experience with after markets parts for O2 sensors. Are they good substitutes for the original parts? Will my Volvo "recognize" these after market parts or will they trigger faulty signal every so often, giving me endless headaches thereafter?
Thanks in advance. Chang
Hello Hoonk, my "check engine" symbol came on. Took it to mechanic and he ran diagnostic. Told me it's the O2 sensor. Since they usually fail one after another i am looking to replace them both. When i contacted local volvo agent, i found the prices very expensive S$1,200. Hence, i started to look around by googling.
Check engine light means there is a diagnostic trouble code stored - it does not mean a sensor (o2 sensor in this case) is bad. It means the signal from a sensor is not what the computer expects - the signal is outside normal parameters. 90% of the time something is causing the signal to be wrong other than the sensor itself. You need to find a service provider that will diagnose the problem - not read a code and replace a part.
Certainly a heater can go bad in a O2 sensor - if so replace THAT ONE SENSOR. (If you have a heater code and the wiring to the heater is working properly) Or the signal from a sensor can be bad - THEN FIND OUT WHY (air leak, bad other component,etc) If so figure out what damaged the sensor (coolant in exhaust, incorrect use of silicone that contaminated the sensor, etc)
OR - OK - If your service provider tells you you have a bad X that need to be replaced, agree for him to replace X and keep your old part. If your check engine light comes on again with the same code (as in it was not fixed by replacing the part ) tell him to put your old part back in and refund all you have spent (except for some of his time "trying" to fix your car). Then find someone who can fix it right the first time without replacing part that are not bad. .
What specific codes were stored? And after they were erased how long did it take for them.one to come back?
Last edited by hoonk; Dec 22, 2021 at 09:08 PM.
I also have a 2012 Volvo XC60 that has just been diagnosed with a bad O2 sensor. Text from diagnostic is: Hooked vehicle up to VIDA and found engine code rear O2 BAN1 sensor stuck lean. I have been told that it needs to be replaced. Is this correct? I do not believe they listed the error code that it is throwing. I had it in to the Volvo dealership to replace the sensor and they told me that they received a second code indicating the cat converter is bad and should also be replaced. I ended up not doing either at this point since I believe that if the O2 sensor is bad it would create an error code to be given for the cat converter since the oxygen level is not correct. Am I correct in my thinking? At this point I am not very happy with this dealership.
Last edited by slsell; Feb 23, 2022 at 01:16 PM.
I also have a 2012 Volvo XC60 that has just been diagnosed with a bad O2 sensor. Text from diagnostic is: Hooked vehicle up to VIDA and found engine code rear O2 BAN1 sensor stuck lean. I have been told that it needs to be replaced. Is this correct? I do not believe they listed the error code that it is throwing. I had it in to the Volvo dealership to replace the sensor and they told me that they received a second code indicating the cat converter is bad and should also be replaced. I ended up not doing either at this point since I believe that if the O2 sensor is bad it would create an error code to be given for the cat converter since the oxygen level is not correct. Am I correct in my thinking? At this point I am not very happy with this dealership.
Did anyone ever get this figure out. I have the same issue.
"same issue" may not be the same issue... What codes are you seeing? Have you done any other tests? There are two ways a fault code can point to the O2 sensor - a) the heating element to the sensor is open or shorted - which could be the sensor or the wiring b) the code is pointing to a sensor's signal being out of range (either high or low). If its a front sensor, that means the sensor's signal can't compensate for a fuel trim issue (ie too much or too little O2 in the exhaust). That can be caused by quite a few things ranging from a temp sensor to a vacuum leak, exhaust leak,, fuel pressure, wiring or finally the sensor etc. If its the rear sensor, that's a different issue since it could be a fuel trim issue, an exhaust leak, or a failing cat converter (ie a P0420), wiring or the sensor. Start by scanning the codes, write down what you see then clear them to see what returns. If your scanner does capture run time data, that's also a good way to see how the signals are being processed. Considering sensors can go for 150-200 a pop, and often are hard to access w/o a lift, its worth doing the full diagnostic triage first or if you take it to a pro, one that is Volvo or euro-car savvy. One final question - is your car consuming any oil or coolant? oil or coolant in the exhaust can contaminate the sensor and possibly the cat - so if that's left unresolved, any new sensors or cats will fail eventually
I have a 2015.5 T5. Around 80k miles. Catalytic converter went bad (P0420). After removing and inspecting, the mechanic said the damage was pretty obvious, and probably due to unused fuel getting through, which itself was probably the result of some misfires, possibly which happened years ago, although I don't recall any engine codes indicating such. In any case, he said I should consider replacing the 02 sensors at the same time since there would be no additional labor charge for the work (due to pulling the catalytic converter already), and they tend to have issues after 80k miles. $325 x 3, so $975 total.
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