​​​​​So I've been tracking down a few issues on this thing and wanted to see any further ideas you guys might have.

So it started with the rough idle issue that got progressively worse to the point that it would stall if sitting idle. I was getting a "too rich at idle" code and a cylinder 3 misfire code. So at this point I took the throttle body off and gave it a full scrub.

This got rid of the "too rich at idle code", however the misfire remained. (Should be noted there was a huge improvement in idle..I'll go more into symptoms at the end) At that point I changed the plugs, still a misfire. Swapped coil to another cylinder to see if misfire moved, it did not. So Next step was to put a new injector and change the fuel filter. Still have my misfire and this is where I'm currently at.


So the symptoms. Car only idles rough in drive. If I drop it to neutral the rough idle goes away. When driving, it chugs when a light amount of gas is given, but seems fine at higher rpms. Chugging and rough idle gets worse as the car warms up.

Should also mention..before i cleaned that throttle body, the car was so bad it would stall under pretty much any circumstance. It's better now, but still having substantial issues obviously

And sometimes it dOesn't want to start, it sounds like there is no gas getting to it..it always eventually starts though. And this only happens rarely

So that's all I've got right now..any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

One guy has already said I probably need a valve job, but I figured I'd see if anyone has any other ideas to check. Also, if it does need A valve job..what do you think that should cost.? I'm thinking it's not even worth it given the value of the car

 

a few thoughts 1) look closely at the connector to the coil pack on #3 to check for any cracks. Some have had luck sealing up with RTV. 2) look for any cracked vacuum lines. You system may be borderline rich which can set off an averaging code. 3) since your car changes behavior with engine temp, consider swapping out the coolant temp sensor. Regarding the valve job, you'd need to do a dry/wet compression test first (warm engine first), then do a leak down test to see if anything is off about #3.