All,

Been combing through all the usual suspects in terms of this helpful forum, as well as many other for a simple breakdown repair procedure for a leaking condenser. Haven't actually found anything on this, so hopefully it's so easy it needs limited explanation. Can I just remove the bolts, slide out the old, slide in the new, reattach hoses, and recharge system?

There is a pin-hole leak in the front of the condenser unit next to the receiver drier portion (Volvo P/N CH 664303) of the OEM unit.

Vehicle is a 2005 XC90, 2.5T, FWD (VIN ends in X51203240). Honest indy repair shop says $850 repair, but they are using a Volvo part and aren't the cheapest labor. I've looked this thing over and over, and it seems like the easiest repair in the world. The only catch is the system evacuation and recharge.

Questions:
1) Should I take the vehicle to be evacuated before replacing the part, and then return to have the system properly recharged? Can I do this myself, or do I run serious risk of endangering the passengers/driver, or ruining the compressor unit if simply buying a canister of R-134a with a built-in pressure gauge for the recharging?

2) What exactly would be the procedure for evacuation, removal, and recharge of the system so as to not accidentally ruin expensive components (compressor and the like)?

3) My unit appears similar to the unit here: Volvo Parts - Authentic OEM Volvo Parts direct from Volvo Parts Webstore | VolvoPartsWebstore.com ; however there are other units which I believe are for newer models that include a very differently styled receiver dryer (Google condenser and you'll see a little appendage off to the side which is canister shaped and quite larger and rounder than the older configuration which I believe mine is...). Do I need anything other than a replacement unit, or should I also have on hand replacement hardware, seals, lubricants, etc.?

4) Can I simply buy a canister to recharge the system, or is this a dumb idea?

Any ideas or procedural breakdown would be appreciated. Will post repair video once I get the part, but can't decide if I should do this, or leave to AC shop...

 

Take or somewhere to get it evacuated and recharged. Those cans have sealant that can potentially damage the AC system over time.

 

Yes,
The AC condenser is basically a radiator from a design stand point.


Take it to a local shop for evac --> repair yourself ---> recharge.

- The shop will charge you about $100 for evac + recharge.

I just did the Ac compressor on my 2007 Honda Odyssey, the same principles apply, you may want to read it over:

DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey AC Compressor Replacement

Make sure you use new O-rings.
Use only factory part, no aftermarket.

 

Valeo is the OEM, so you can buy this (make sure it fits your car).
Valeo is $182 vs Volvo $460!
30665563 Aftermarket - A/C Condenser (w/ Receiver Drier) - Valeo 818160 - Free Shipping

- Get the O-rings from the dealer for cheap.

 

I've been thinking of doing this same project on my 2006 XC 90 V8. I may have a leaky valve on the recharge port. (I can twist of the cap and see that the pin on it is bent). If I tackle this, I'll report back.

 

All, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. Suggestions anyone on an R-134a can brand that does not contain harmful sealants?

@oto

Make a video with your point and shoot then post the link. I couldn't find an XC90 video for this procedure to save my life. Is it the shraeder valve, or a different recharge port?? Shraeder valves are like bike tire ports from what I understand, and they are fairly easy to change out. Would be curious about your situation.

@cn90

Got the manifold gauge set, vacuum pump, oil, VIDA dvd, and condenser unit the other day. The condenser assembly looks different (from the outside) than what you posted. Basically, I don't have the little pumpkin lookin' (receiver dryer? accumulator?) to the side, it is all an integrated single unit in a vertical column along the edge without the appendage.

I think that VALEO part only fits up to a certain chassis number, and my chassis number (I believe it is the last digits of the VIN, no?) is somewhat higher. Found that VALEO part everywhere, but mine was tougher to come by. The condenser which arrived appears to match the original closely (from what I can see without having removed the condenser from the car yet). Went with the following part ($137 delivered, machined aluminum), let me know if this looks wrong, I'll hunt around for another one before shoving the wrong part into my vehicle.

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-3802-Replacement-Condenser-Volvo/dp/B0057FJW9S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407082623&sr= 1-1&keywords=TYC+3802+Replacement+Condenser+for+Volv o+XC90[/URL]

Thanks for the advice on the o-ring replacement, will go by the dealer parts desk and pick them up. Haven't gotten them yet, but have been told this is crucial.

 

This is a big job, expensive labor etc.

Stick to Valeo.

 

Can anybody suggest Valeo part that isn't $450 from dealership? Or is that the only option here...?

 

Chassis Number is not VIN.

 

It is my understanding that the chassis number is actually the last six digits of the VIN number. Is that not correct? If not, where can I find that information (the chassis number)?

 

Sorry I misunderstood you.

Open the hood and look at driver side fender area.
The chassis number is right above the VIN.
And you are correct, the last 6 digits of the VIN is the chassis number.

 

If you go to Valeo webpage to search for the XC90 condenser, they only list one all the way up to Model Year 09/2007:

Spare Parts - Automotive Spare Parts - Automotive Post Equipment Solutions - - Product Catalog - Valeo Service Export (Export - EN)

I think the link I posted earlier (eeuroparts) is likely good for your car. I cannot see how they can change that much for 2003-2006 XC90 2.5T.



----

 

I did a bit more research into this.

The upper photo is for your car 2005 after Chassis 197066, where Volvo placed the Drier right next to the condenser.

The lower photo is for Chassis up to 197065, where the Drier is a bit away from the condenser.

Personally, I don't think it matters that much because if you order the earlier design, it should fit your car just fine. The space is there. The line connection is the same. The only difference is the placement of the Drier.

 

It does matter. The connection is not the same. If it didn't matter, they wouldn't make two different ones. Just get the one for your car and be done with it.

 

Sometimes parts from early years fit later years, even though mfg's list different PNs. I have gone through this with Honda, Toyota etc.

The issue here is cost: the Volvo OEM is $400+.
The Valeo early design is $180 and should fit later years.
At least Valeo website says so.

The AC lines are the same PNs, the switch (mounted on the Drier) is the same switch. Even though I have not done, this, I am almost 99% sure the early-design will fit later years with minor modification.

I guess the O.P. can order the early-design Valeo (Drier mounted a bit away from the Condenser) and give it a try.

 

Going to dive into this tomorrow morning. Anyone have a working VIDA program and can tell me the proper amount of compressor oil to add to the center hose of the manifold gauge set when replacing the condenser and receiver dryer unit together (the "top" picture from above which shows the dryer unit attached to the side)? I have oil, just don't want to overfill and stress the seals. not sure how much to add, and I imagine only the VIDA info would be detailed enough to answer that question.

Will post some shots, or maybe a link to the video on YT.

 

Please post some photos.

Did you get the condenser from earlier year models?
What brand do you use?

This is standard procedure for PAG oil:
- Condenser ~ 1 ounce
- Dryer ~ 1 ounce

Or drain it first to see how much oil comes out of the old parts.

When the car stops, most of the PAG oil goes back to the AC Compressor. A bit stays in the lines, evap, condenser etc.

You can call local Volvo and ask to speak to a master tech, they will help you with spec.

 

I wouldn't expect to be able to speak to a tech at the dealer. I can look it up at work Monday.

 

Re Volvo tech. Don't talk to the S.A.
Talk to the parts dept and ask them to page one of the techs for you about a parts question.

 

I'm just saying that us techs don't like it when advisors or parts guys waste our time with that stuff. My advisor did it once and knows not to do it again. We don't get paid by the hour, so being taken off a job to talk to someone who is trying to do something on their own is not how we like to spend our day.