Hello All- I’m working on a 2006 XC90 2.5T AWD. While I was driving it all of sudden it lost power, the engine started making a pretty loud clatter from the top end and it started pushing out substantial blue smoke. Definitely smells like burning oil. Here's the gist- I’ll try to make it quick, I'm new to the Volvo world. My girlfriend bought the XC90 a couple years ago from a private owner as her daily driver and we have no idea what kind of maintenance schedule they had. I’m guessing none. I've fixed several problems over the past couple years (I'm a pretty good shade tree mechanic). One day the dreaded "NO OIL PRESSURE STOP IMMEDIATELY" message came up. After some online research and the "glove" test I came to the conclusion the previous owner didn't change the oil regularly and the PCV system must be severely clogged, and I was right- it was! So I fixed that by replacing all the PCV parts and cleaning all the carbon I could reach and did an oil change using a quality filter and Pennzoil euro 0W-40. (What a pain in the A**). Then I took it for a test drive and the message came back. So I had replaced the oil pressure sensor when I did the PCV but I checked to make sure it hadn’t become clogged again. I also cleaned the oil pick-up tube (again) and replaced the oil pan O rings (again). It didn't help. Meanwhile all this time the engine purrs like a kitten. But we kept it parked till I could figure this out. Fast forward to a couple days ago. My friend has a shop with a $3000 dollar Bi-directional code reading machine that is about 30 min away up in a rural area where the internet is spotty at best. I drove it there with the message still up with no problems. Among other minor errors the machine found it said there was an error with the VVT and the camshaft positioning sensor. My friend thinks it could be the timing belt. But I think that would definitely throw a code and the engine would run really ruff so I ruled that out. So we then took it for a drive around the country side to get real time data. It didn't tell us anything new. On the way back suddenly it became gutless, I could floor it and barely get it up to 30mph, the engine started to rattle or clatter from the top end but I wouldn't say knock and it also started pushing out copious amounts of blue smoke! Fortunately we were really close to his shop when this started so I was able to practically coast it in and park it. (And still no new error messages) So that's where I'm at. Sorry for the diatribe. Anybody have any ideas? This friggin car has me at my wit's end. Thank You for your time. I would really appreciate any help anyone can give me.

 

well the VVT gear is driven by oil pressure so if you got some gunk in the galleys there you can wind up with a CEL. There's some good write ups on the S40 board as this is a common issue with the 1.9Ts that use the same VVT design. The other possibility is the timing belt slipped a notch or two. Did you pop off the timing belt cover to see if any oil got pushed out the cam seals onto the timing belt (a common side effect of a clogged PCV system)? If its wet, its a good time to do the timing belt/tensioner/vvt gear/ cam seals and maybe even the water pump.

 

More than likely your turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust. The engine was run with low oil pressure due to the clogged oil pickup tube and the turbo bushings did not like that. Lack of oil changes and non- synthetic oil usage is the cause.

My shop has replaced about 100 turbos over the years. Most in the early 1980's before water cooling. But I've had a couple of customers that happened to with 2000s cars. The story goes like this - Car is towed into the shop, complaint is oil pressure light is on. Engine is full of oil, start it and oil light stays on. Shut it off immediately. Push it into the shop. Find charcoal in the oil pan, Clean pan, replace oil pickup tube (with the new design) replace clogged PCV system, clean block passage to pan. Start car. Oil pressure ok now - but clouds of smoke from the exhaust as soon as it gets a little warm. Next step - replacement turbo, maybe new oil feed line if it looks like the oil pan did! Once a new turbo and feed line is installed it will take at least 1/2 hour before the oil burns out of the exhaust system. It will be a big cloud for a long time and you will wonder when it's going to stop smoking - it will.

We have checked and replaced rod bearings in many cars that have come in with the charcoal in the oil pan syndrome also. Some had copper showing - that might be on your list when you switch to the new "tulip" shaped plastic oil pickup tube (we tried a couple of times cleaning the metal pickup tube - and had to take the pan off for free a couple of times. After that it was a new tube for all!)

Your code reader will not help with your diagnosis. The modules do not care what your oil pressure is - but you certainly can get VVT codes with low oil pressure. No codes for how much play in the turbine shaft bushings either - but possibly a code for incorrect boost pressure after a while.

Sorry for your troubles.

 

I’m new to Volvos myself, but I’d agree on the turbo assessment; Turbo engines don’t make any power without the turbo. If you had low oil pressure I wouldn’t be surprised if the turbo overheated and ate its bearings, which would lead to a loud clatter (bearings shot due to lack of oil) and smoke in the exhaust because the oil seals are toast. Hopefully none of the turbo’s impeller got ingested by the engine… That’d be a fairly hefty repair bill.

Your best bet is to have a trustworthy mechanic (they’re rare, I know) look into it. Definitely don’t try to drive it anymore; Get it towed to a competant shop if the place it’s parked isn’t able to help you out.

 

@geekmaster48 Didn’t you have this same issue in June of last year? This thread comes up in the “Related Topics” at the bottom:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...engine-110325/

 

Well guys, Once again thanks for your responses. I just got back from my friends shop where the Volvo is and I'm just now reading your responses. (the rural area where the shop is located doesn't get internet or phone reception very well) and Y'all nailed it right on the head. The VVT solenoids have been leaking for who knows how long, they needed new gaskets but they were not stuck. And [hoonk]- your story is right on the money. This all started with a check engine light low oil pressure and an oil change- Discovered the PCV system was severely clogged- Fixed all that and related problems- Thought I was done and had it fixed everything- And then the F***ING turbo goes **** up?! (Yes we came to the same conclusion). I thought to myself "MAN, if it wasn't for bad luck- I wouldn't have no luck at all! I mean what are the odds?! And then I came home and read you guys responses and your story makes perfect sense it wasn't bad luck its one more consequence of the clogged PCV system. At least now I know and I cant see light at the end of the tunnel. I'm going to try and upload some pics and maybe a quick vid of what I encountered. We'd never seen anything like it. Just to confirm what we all think.
So turbos...do they make a rebuild kit or something? I haven't checked yet but I'm sure a new one must cost a fortune! And I'm pretty sure its not the kind of thing you want to buy from the junk yard. Again, Thank You sooo much gentleman for your input! I hope someday to pay it forward. I'll let Y'all know how it goes.

This is what it started doing after it warmed up. this pic doesnt do it justice.


wiped my finger inside the tail pipe.

 

With that much oil in the exhaust - It might take an hour of smoking to stop after a new turbo is installed!

 

OK thanks, so is there such a thing as a turbo rebuild kit?

 

I'm sure many DIYers have attempted -

The clearances between the compressor wheels and housings is critical - usually when a turbo gets that bad, the bushings are extremely worn and the exhaust or compressor vanes can chew up the housings damaging them and the compressor wheels - the exhaust side is hardened steel, but the intake side wheel and housing is aluminum. I have seen many where the turbine shaft is broken, or the intake compressor wheel has shredded the intake housing and the wheel. (You did mention weird noises coming from the engine)

If clearances are not correct - it may not develop the correct boost or may whine loudly. The shaft is balanced also - you will find ground off parts near the hub of the exhaust wheel. So - many might have rebuilt theirs successfully - but for my customers I put a product on that I knew would be quiet and reliable. Which was an oem new turbo, not necessarily purchased from the dealer - wholesale distributors I had access to offered the factory turbos at a better discount.

If you are going to try for the "DIY rebuild" - I would remove and dismantle the turbo first - before ordering any parts.

 

There are vids on Youtube and kits on eBay for rebuilding a Mitsubishi TD04 turbo ($50 or so) but those kits are mostly replacement seals etc. You'd be better off calling a shop who can inspect for clearances and recommend what would need to be replaced. Expect this to run in the $400 range - but that's still a whole lot better than the factory replacement cost.

 

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to buy a new one. I dont want to have to do this again. Can't do it till next month, but I'll post how it went. Thanks again for everyones input.

 

Does anyone know where I can get step by step instructions' on replacing the turbo on my 2006 xc90 2.5t AWD. I've spent the last week off and on trying to find work ups and/or videos on the subject but I can't find anything worth a s**t. I'm confident I could figure it out but that's doing it the hard way. There's always tricks to any job. So if anyone can steer me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. Thanks