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The key was left on, all night.
Engine was off. I don't know why this happened.
Next day the car would not crank. I don't any battery details, just that they key was found 'on' and it did not start.
My wife assumed battery was low, put the battery charger on it, at 25 amps for about 30 minutes.
Did not check the voltage at anytime.
Disconnected the charger and the car started normally and drove to the market 10 minutes away.
Came out from the market and it won't start, no starter solenoid clicks, nothing but a relay click and fuel pump sounds.
Electric windows worked normally, headlights seemed bright as normal.
Tried jumping with another vehicle, but "nothing".
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Good battery, 12.6v perhaps 3 years old. Clean connections.
115,000 miles
Switching the key on, I can hear a relay click.
I think I hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds.
No codes. But there _was_ P0420 catalytic converter code (cleared).
We have 3 key/fobs, one is the service key.
I jumped the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, starter cranked the engine like normal.
Tried it with key "on" but it engine did not start. I don't know if the fuel pump was still "on" by the time I got under with the screwdriver.
There are no messages on the dash that give a clue, but it had msg "low battery, auto-save" at some time.
But the battery was not low, it was 12.6v.
FOB key batteries have more than 3.0 v, and door locks operate as normal.
I'm not familiar with "CEM" but I have an OBDII scanner which showed one code; P0420 (related to the catalytic converter).
Your scanner may only read Emission related codes, those codes are stored are in the ECM (engine control module) and maybe the TCM (transmission control module). The picture is from VIDA, the factory service software - plugged into a 2015 - showing how the network is connected and all of the modules that can store codes - The CEM is the central electric module - the main brains of the car. When you turn the key - the CEM decides to whether or not to send a signal to the starter. The red and green are modules that this car has, the grey boxes are modules not available in this car - For instance the SUM module is for the 4c chassis, that's the electronic shocks - those are not installed in this car.
OK thanks for defining that acronym (and very well! 👍🏽
So you are saying that the only way is to take the car to a mechanic who has VIDA ?
In other words it's not possible to diagnose the problem by DIY because the CEM is making the decisions.
Dash also says "Low Battery power save mode".
This doesn't make sense. I think the CEM is a little nutty.
The battery has been at-rest all night and voltage measures 12.75v.
So you are saying that the only way is to take the car to a mechanic who has VIDA ?
No, There are plenty of compatible scan tools that can talk to most modules on a Volvo -
But VIDA for your car is a free stolen/hacked download - you can find a download link in the OBD section of Swedespeed. You will need a interface, plugs into the obd port and a USB port on your Win7 Pro only CPU, called a DICE unit to be able to talk to the car - You can find clone DICE- on ebay/amazon for less than $100
It looks like this - that's one i just gave away - It would not talk to the modules on the low speed network - that's why they are all in red in the picture.
There's a guy on Swedespeed that sells VIDA on a bootable usb drive, presetup to work on many operating systems - just add a DICE unit.
I got a mechanic from www.yourmechanic.com to come to the house.
The guy plugged his tool in, scanned the car, and found that the transmission had set a "no-start" order.
He cancelled the "no-start" and the car started.
He said "you have a transmission problem, I don't know what it is. Your car runs now but you saw me turn off the 'no-start' command from the transmission. The trans could be destroying itself. You need to take this car to a Volvo shop."
It cost $117 for that information which I found to be very useful.
2011 XC90 won't crank
