I broke one off also, the first thing. I couldn't get the hose off it without breaking it.

I took the housing out, drilled and tapped it, converted to brass. i don't think glue is going to cut it with the hot coolant and pressure.

To be honest I was just wondering this morning why you hadn't mentioned breaking that off.

 

Ha! Well that makes me feel better.

I went to Home Depot today and found a couple of fittings that would work. But it took several adapters to make work on my OCD kicked in and I found an option I like slightly better.

AutoZone was able to order one in by Thursday for $17. This one is actually made of aluminum, so it should be much stronger. It doesn't show when you search for it on the website, but in person they can find it. I will still be careful with it.

The part number is 8636779k. You can find it on eBay for about $15 as well.

8636779k | eBay



Searching for a new seal for the housing. Looks to be part # 8636779, thermostat housing gasket. Not sure what the material is or is it can be reused. I will pull it tomorrow morning and see.

In other news I am pretty close to having the rest of the car back together. Drive lines are on. In order to get the rear driveline connected I needed to undo the two bolts in the intermediate joint, otherwise there wasn't enough slack to make the shaft slip over the yoke. No big deal.

All that is left are the radiators and top fixings. Probably have 90% electrical hooked up. PCV trap should get here tomorrow and once that is in the radiators can go in. Honestly I hope I remember how they are arranged.

Alex

 

Ok, before the drama I will get the PCV system out of the way.

It's done. I was pleased to see my new one was a genuine Volvo part. $44 on eBay.

I can't imagine doing this job without taking off the intake. I still had the the whole front of the car off, so it was easier but no cakewalk. I found it helpful to remove the banjo fitting so the hoses would move around easier.

Didn't want to take any chances, so I put hose clamps on everything. It would really suck if that leaked.



All done!

 

Alrighty, my feelings right now are that of pure rage.

I was removing the thermostat housing (because of a poor design in the first place) and while removing the torx bolts I stripped the last one. I was being extremely careful because they were super tight. I even saved what I thought would be the easiest one for last. I was using a 1/4 driver with a torx bit and a small breaker bar. I was so careful, and it still happened.

Rage.

Anyways, I am trying to epoxy the bit into the screw and see if that works. If that doesn't work I might try grinding the bolt head down. Since it is down there where it is I can't get a drill on it. I might go over the Home Cheapo and see what they have for different easy out type bits. While the threads were still not totally shot I thought I would try the epoxy. Only catch is I have to wait until tomorrow to try it.



Other than that everything else is back together. All I have left is the vertical engine mount on the bottom. (one bolt), the skid plate and passenger tire. I also need to put on the top mount, but want to wait until I have things sorted out with the thermostat in case that gets in the way. Probably won't. Then it's just the overflow and power steering reservoir and I'm set!

Can't put coolant in it just yet as I still need to take apart the thermostat. But so close!

Nothing was too hard putting it all back together. Took a while to figure out some of the vacuum lines, but the nice thing is all the hoses and harnesses WANT to go back to where they need. There were a few I had wrong at first, but as you start adding things it all comes together.

The hood latch was a pain. Had to monkey with it for a while. Still haven't tested it.

Also, is plain green antifreeze OK in these things? Volvo lists some very expensive blue stuff, but it has green in it to begin.

 

Has to list Phosphate Free, I went to Napa this weekend, and they said this is good.
Valvoline? ZEREX? G-05? Antifreeze / Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline®
Zerex G-05

If your old trap was as bad as mine, you might need to pull the oil pan. Something I had not seen before I was doing my last once over, is the Flow over into the pan (square tube continues into the oil pan, it has a circular orifice that I had to scrap out the hole, and flush it out as good as I could. I think I will let some sea-foam sit in there until I can get some oil into the pan and hope that will eat up the last of the clogging oil drippings.

Another thing I ran into, (i haven't put it into my thread yet) the I bought the oil pan o-rings, then when I tried to put the oil coolant on, I could not find the o-rings for that thing. The dealership said it was 12 bucks apeice. 24 total. I thought that was why I got the kit. So I would not have not have to think.

 

Made some more progress today. I would finally finish this thing if I didn't keep getting called away. Between rain and my wife needing my help at every turn I haven't been able to put the time in needed to finish it up. But I'm extremely close.

I gave up on trying to get the timing cover back on. I don't know what kind of witchcraft is needed to put that stupid thing back on over the nipple and still make the tabs connect at the bottom, but after spending some time on it my lack of the needed super powers became clear. Are there any special tricks for that panel? The tab under the idler seems to be giving me the most trouble. For now I just left the cover off. I would also like to monitor stuff under that cover for a bit for leaks since I changed out a lot in there.

I did manage to get the thermostat housing off. The torx bit epoxied into the stripped out screw worked. I get the feeling only barely. But it's out. Threaded the new metal nipple on. Used a bit of teflon tape. It didn't get as tight as I wish it would have. It still wobbles a tad bit. Will keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak. Oh, and the special end you need for it doesn't seem to work any more. I used the factory connector and it leaked like a siv. So I replaced it with a straight hose and a clamp. Another thing that might complicate that timing cover.

Starter her up. Cycled the key several times to prime the fuel pump. Seemed to work, cause it started after about 5 seconds of cranking.

Terribly noise coming out of the engine bay. Turned the car off and the two bolts that I was wondering about earlier fell to the ground out of the hole. They must have been misaligned and stuck up against the flywheel. When I cut the power they fell to the ground. Decided to just leave them out this time.

Started up again. Had a bit of lifter tick which quieted down quickly. Tons of smoke coming from the turbo areas. Figured that was just oil and crap on the pipes and sure enough that went away too.



All was good until I heard a big pop. Turns out I didn't have a transmission cooling line in all the way. It spewed quite a bit of tranny fluid out, but I shut it down pretty quickly so I really doubt any damage happened. Good thing I was there. I almost walked away to use the bathroom while it was idling but decided against it. Looking for a new $1.50 clip so I can put my transmission cooling line back in. Can't find one locally, and I missed the dealership being open by a good half hour. Will have to wait until Monday to see if they can get them.



So anyways, I seem to be down to a very small punch list.

1. Top cross member/support beam
2. Skid Plate
3. Timing cover
4. Clip for transmission cooling line

Oh, I also ran codes after I shut it down. I only ran it for about 3 minutes, so not long enough for much to happen. I did get a CEL, so I ran the codes on my phone via a bluetooth adapter and got the code P0734, which is Gear 4 incorrect ratio. This is odd considering I hadn't even shifted from Park. I cleared the code. Hopefully it doesn't come back. But I was super excited that no other codes tripped.

 

Cool, Good job. I hope to be as far as you on Tuesday. My list seems to be a little bit longer. but I think you did more recently than I am able to do!

 

The timing cover isn't bad. Remove the two bolts for the motor mount by the crank pulley and jack up the motor a little bit. If you need some more room, remove the bolt for the mount by the starter too.

 

Ok, well I rounded up one of those little green clips from a junkyard and so that is good to go on that front. No more spewing ATF out of the radiator.

Drove about 2 miles (round trip) to the gas station and put in 10 gallons of premium as well as a fuel system cleaner.

Seems to shift OK, but the car is absolutely GUTLESS. Doesn't run too smooth either. Takes forever to get to 50 MPH, but it did seem to shift through the gears just fine. Not sure how high I got, I think I counted it shifting 3 times.

So the engine. Pretty sure it's from something I did. Here is what I had my fingers in:

1. Timing. Did it from scratch. (ES6T- did you look over my post where I set the timing?)
2. Everything wiring harness related. Don't think I missed any but who knows.
3. Turbos.

The check engine light blinked a few times. I got the codes P0300, P0303, and P0305 which is cylinder misfire on at least one cylinder, misfire cylinder 3, and misfire cylinder 5. Also got a "Antiskid Service Required" message. Prob should tackle one thing at a time.

My gut tells me it's something I did with the engine, so to start with things I have touched. I doubt the spark plugs went bad while working on it. Going to go check the wiring harness right now and see if there was any moisture in the plugs. Also might run some Heet water remover through the gas just in case, since I did power wash it and had the injectors semi unplugged a couple of times. Also will test fuel pressure.

Alex

 

Timing should be good. I'd make sure the coils are all firing. Very common to fail.

 

Sorry to ask the obvious...but is there a good way to check them?

 

Since the T6 has the pipes going over the top of the engine, you can't really just pull them with the engine running. So clear the codes and swap the coils from the misfiring cylinders to cylinders not setting codes. Drive it and see if the misfire moves.

 

Thanks ES6T.

Short story: Moved the coils and now a different cylinder is misfiring. Just like you said. But now it's running MUCH better. Pretty much like it should.

So I moved each coil one to the right, and moved #6 to #1. But first I decided to check the spark plugs. Glad I did. Not that they looked too bad- but #2 was dang near welded in. The rest almost seemed hand tight. This is the 1st time I have been in there, I never took the coils off to begin with. Anyways, it took about 9 turns with a crazy amount of force to get #2 out. Kinda scared me cause for a minute I thought I broke the plug at the theads, but it was just the ceramic that broke. Not sure why, I was torquing it fairly square. But anyways I eventually got it out. Sprayed some carb cleaner down each hole to clean the threads. (BOY did it take a lot of cranking after that to get it to start!)

Got some new Bosch plugs from Autozone and goobed them up with anti-seize and put them in torquing to 22ft-lbs. Reinstalled each coil cleaning as I put them in and blowing them out with compressed air. A few of them were kinda damp, probably from the power wash.

The biggest thing was I blew out the electrical connectors. On a few of them there was visible water that blew out. It rained the day before I hooked the engine up, so that is what must have done it.

Anyways, drove around about 6 miles. Power was like I would expect. Shifted great. Have not spend any time driving these, so I don't know what to consider a good baseline for power, but it seemed about right. Not a power house, but no wimp either.

CEL came back on at about mile 5. Misfire cylinder #4. This would make sense, as #3 was bad before.

Will go to the pick and pull on Monday and find a new coil. Easy fix if you ask me!

Now time to tackle the "anti skid" message.

 

My anti skid message went away, after I took out the passenger seat, and played with the existing YAW sensor. There was some corrosion in the pins/connector. That was it. I haven't seen it since. (that code) I still have the steering wheel code. It look easy, but the thing is in a space where your gonna scrape up your hands. YouTube had an video that led me down that path.

The problem was caused by flooding due to the Sunroof drainage lines, there is a particular smell when that water has been sitting around for while. I had one of the boots switch out, but now that spring is here, so is the smell, Next on my to do list is the driver seat, (when I get power restored) This Tuesday or next Tuesday I used Oxyclean on the bottom of the floor liner to get it from smelling. Good luck

 

Oh wow! Thanks for the tip. I just did some reading up on it. Apparently it's a common problem- and quite clearly I have it. I do hear the slush when I go around corners. Had me really confused, but hadn't spend much time thinking about it. I will do the fix this week and pull the carpets to dry out. Super glad you mentioned it, you pinpointed my problem. I bet that will solve the anti-skid as well. Two birds with one stone! Awesome!

I found this video very helpful:

 

your welcome.

 

Crane550,
Thanks for posting and photographing this repair. Gave me a great look and better understanding of my engine before I tackle an oil leak. I have the same year and engine.

 

i wish i had found this 3 months ago when i pulled my tranny to rebuild.
i've finished the transmission part, but have a couple of other items to tackle before putting it back in (timing, oil & water pumps, tie rods, all the seals i can get to without pulling the head off, etc.) and this thread has had some great pointers on extra little parts to swap out with everything

if it's still sluggish, your TCU could have gone into learning mode to figure out new shift points

 

Paulpk and Sketch,

Thanks! That is why I do it. Honestly all the info here has been super helpful. I just want to add to it.

Sketch,

Did you pull your tranny out the top with the engine? Not sure how hard it would be comparatively speaking going out the bottom. Prob easier in a lot of ways. There would be a lot of things you wouldn't have to take off.

I would recommend doing the timing belt while you have it out. Also front and rear main seals. I also did the cam seals, which is also easier while it's out of the car. Also the turbos were not that hard. It was $70 well spent.

I replaced the #4 coil. Runs much better now. It also seems to have much better power. My fuel economy is also better, but I can't say by how much. Only have about 30 miles on it total. After clearing out the P0304 code it hasn't come back yet- but a new one showed up. P0014. Not sure whats up with that. Cleared it- will see if it comes back on a longer drive tomorrow.

Funny story. But I got the coil out of a junkyard. A couple days ago I got a few clips off of an '04 XC90 they had in the junkyard. Today I knew exactly where to go- only to find the engine and transmission gone. Someone pulled it in the last couple of days. Found a coil off of an early 2000's XC70. $9 out the door. Seems to work fine.

 

i dropped the transmission out the bottom as i hadn't originally planned on touching the engine and didn't want to have to pull any of AC lines or anything else that wasn't needed. now i'm back and forth as she likes to leak a small bit of oil and mark her territory which she's continued to do in the garage even after letting her sit for a couple of months without running.

so now i've opted to pull the trigger do all the timing components, water & oil pumps & all of the seals i can easily get my hands on, etc, however i'm trying to decide between if it want to:
a) do all of these with the motor hanging inside of the car (lowered, can lower it about another foot and get to it all from the bottom (i'm 5'5" and still flexible enough at 30 that sitting in a wheel well for an hour or two isn't TOO uncomfortable))
b) lower the car and pull it out the top (difficult to raise/lower without the subframe in, however i can always slap it back on) or
c) see how high i can jack it up and just roll the engine out on a dolly and then slap it on the stand.

I was hoping to avoid pulling all the components on the front end, etc, however that's looking like it'll be the easiest way to redo the engine stuffs; then i can reattach the transmission to the engine on the outside and lower it all in in one fell swoop


P0014 is VVT iirc - hopefully that doesn't reappear for you, not sure what the fix is if it reappears. hopefully just an electrical connection that isn't snug!