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Six amp drain?

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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 04:24 PM
  #1  
KZQ's Avatar
KZQ
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Default Six amp drain?

Hi Folks,
I've a 2005 Volvo VC 90 that has started killing the battery which was, until recently, in good shape. I disconnected the ground lead from the battery so as to measure any current that might be flowing. I expected some minor drain as it takes several days to really exhaust the battery. Instead I read something more than six amps. I suppose I'll start removing fuses, one at a time.
Any suggestions where to start?
TIA
Bill
 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KZQ
I disconnected the ground lead from the battery so as to measure any current that might be flowing.
it takes several days to really exhaust the battery. Instead I read something more than six amps.
It can be very frustrating to try to find a parasitic drain on a modern car with a CANBUS system (and Fords have them also - remember Ford owned Volvo about the time your car was built)

It takes a least a few minutes for modules to turn off. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect it with an ammeter inline (to measures amps) - you will power on a module or three and have to wait until they turn off to get a valid reading. Same with removing or installing fuses - you may wake up a module unintentionally and get a false amp usage reading.

A better option is an inductive ammeter where wires don't have to be disconnected to get an accurate reading. Most systems in your car will turn off after a period of time - for instance the dome lights if left on will go out after a while. Not sure about the mirror lights in the visors -

How old is your battery?


 
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Old Sep 11, 2024 | 05:56 PM
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KZQ
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Originally Posted by hoonk
It can be very frustrating to try to find a parasitic drain on a modern car with a CANBUS system (and Fords have them also - remember Ford owned Volvo about the time your car was built)

It takes a least a few minutes for modules to turn off. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect it with an ammeter inline (to measures amps) - you will power on a module or three and have to wait until they turn off to get a valid reading. Same with removing or installing fuses - you may wake up a module unintentionally and get a false amp usage reading.

A better option is an inductive ammeter where wires don't have to be disconnected to get an accurate reading. Most systems in your car will turn off after a period of time - for instance the dome lights if left on will go out after a while. Not sure about the mirror lights in the visors -

How old is your battery?
Thanks Hoonk,
I suspected something like that and I do have an inductive amp meter. The battery is a couple of years old however I'm sure these dead battery episodes have damaged it.
Bill
 
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