Oil Cooler Lines Replacement Steps
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01-20-2013, 06:04 PM
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Oil Cooler Lines Replacement Steps
I finally got around to replacing the oil cooler lines on the '98. It was a royal pain. This post will give the reader some tips so theirs is not so difficult.
Have a pan to catch the oil that will drip and drain.
Access to fasteners:
1. Remove engine/radiator splash shield (This is the shield under the radiator that goes from frame rail to frame rail. Yours may have been removed and discarded by a previous owner.).
2. Remove plastic nuts and hinge up the wheel well splash shield. (It should be obvious the wheel is removed.)
Fasteners: (Here's where it gets interesting.)
3. Oil lines are held into the thermostat housing. There is a torx screw holding a sheet metal "yoke" clamp against the line shoulders to keep the lines in the housing. Clean the screw head of gunk. I was able to get a short torx tip into a 1/4 socket. Then I put an insert into the socket that gave me a 6 point to wrench. I was just now looking on Sears to find it and couldn't. But I found what might work better: GearWrench 2 Pc Access Bit Adapters. If you're not confident about not buggering the screw, then take the t-stat housing off to get better access to the screw.
4. Thermostat (may not have to remove) is held with 2 easily accessible torx screws. Make sure the bit is well seated before torquing.
5. Line tabs bolt was the killer. It's tucked slightly behind the A/C lower bolt, behind a stiff section of the wiring harness. Remove the bolt securing the harness to the subframe. Pull the harness forward. (I used a screwdriver as a lever to move it.) It's a 10mm. I used a flex socket and didn't get the greatest engagement but was able to get it off.
6. Removing the lines isn't too bad. Twist, wriggle, swear. Repeat until complete.
Installation:
7. Replace the oil thermostat housing if you removed it. Make sure to use three new gaskets - one square (housing to engine) and two o-rings (for lines).
8. Cover the oil line ends to keep them clean. Install the lines from the center out. You can't get the metal portion around the A/C from the wheel well. I spent hours trying from the wheel well, then did it from the center in about 10 minutes.
9. Seat the lines into the t-stat housing. Oil the o-ring for easier (not easy) insertion. Install the screw and yoke.
10. Install the tab bolt. Be patient.
11. Install the lines into the radiator. Make sure you use new seals here, too.
12. Start and check for leaks.
Have a pan to catch the oil that will drip and drain.
Access to fasteners:
1. Remove engine/radiator splash shield (This is the shield under the radiator that goes from frame rail to frame rail. Yours may have been removed and discarded by a previous owner.).
2. Remove plastic nuts and hinge up the wheel well splash shield. (It should be obvious the wheel is removed.)
Fasteners: (Here's where it gets interesting.)
3. Oil lines are held into the thermostat housing. There is a torx screw holding a sheet metal "yoke" clamp against the line shoulders to keep the lines in the housing. Clean the screw head of gunk. I was able to get a short torx tip into a 1/4 socket. Then I put an insert into the socket that gave me a 6 point to wrench. I was just now looking on Sears to find it and couldn't. But I found what might work better: GearWrench 2 Pc Access Bit Adapters. If you're not confident about not buggering the screw, then take the t-stat housing off to get better access to the screw.
4. Thermostat (may not have to remove) is held with 2 easily accessible torx screws. Make sure the bit is well seated before torquing.
5. Line tabs bolt was the killer. It's tucked slightly behind the A/C lower bolt, behind a stiff section of the wiring harness. Remove the bolt securing the harness to the subframe. Pull the harness forward. (I used a screwdriver as a lever to move it.) It's a 10mm. I used a flex socket and didn't get the greatest engagement but was able to get it off.
6. Removing the lines isn't too bad. Twist, wriggle, swear. Repeat until complete.
Installation:
7. Replace the oil thermostat housing if you removed it. Make sure to use three new gaskets - one square (housing to engine) and two o-rings (for lines).
8. Cover the oil line ends to keep them clean. Install the lines from the center out. You can't get the metal portion around the A/C from the wheel well. I spent hours trying from the wheel well, then did it from the center in about 10 minutes.
9. Seat the lines into the t-stat housing. Oil the o-ring for easier (not easy) insertion. Install the screw and yoke.
10. Install the tab bolt. Be patient.
11. Install the lines into the radiator. Make sure you use new seals here, too.
12. Start and check for leaks.
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