Hi all – I have what I hope is a simple question. I took my 2005 v70 in for an oil change and my mechanic said that he wanted to change my transmission fluid because it was really dirty. He quoted pretty high, like 450 bucks, so I thought I would call around and get some other opinions. How hard can it be right?

Anyway, one place I called said that if there was no problems shifting, then he would just leave it. He said on older cars changing the fluid could lead to problems, and if it was running fine to just leave it alone.

Does that sound right to you guys? It seems kind of weird to me. I've had the car since 2007 and I have never changeD the fluid as far as I know.

 

Sorry for the late response.
This "question" comes up all the time. I believe the hardware involved has changed over the years such that the old caveat, "accumulated crud is what seals the transmission's pistons etc.", isn't gospel anymore.

The valve bodies are smaller. The sleeves are aluminum so they scratch.

I love the response that says the specced fluid was clean.

I respectfully suggest doing a drain and fill and see for yourself what comes out. It will be black. It won't have the same lubricating powers as new. It won't flow as well. Its dirt carrying capacity is all used up. Refreshing those 3.5 qts. won't hurt anything.

Many will argue that a complete pump out (using 12 to 16 quarts of fluid) is the only way to go as all the dirt gets removed. The Volvo dealer I bought my car from claimed to have used 16 qts. during a flush. They did it a much lower mileage than your car has now.

Be cautious that the proper fluid is used. A 3309 fluid needs to be used. Many mechanics are careless and will use whatever they have. Genuine Volvo fluid runs $20 per qt., so $320 of his $450 could be just fluid. Do you trust him?

There are several 3309 compatible fluids on the market. If you sign back on I'll list 'em for you.

 

Just to add another "opinion":

The shop where I take my 05 V70 has never mentioned transmission fluid.... and that sob want to replace everything else on the car every time I take it in.

Based on that one dealer- I would go with the " if its shifting okay- then leave it alone".

 

I would change it out with a dump and fill first. See how that goes. If you don’t encounter any problems do a full flush or a few more dump and fills. As I recall 4 dump and fills gives you pretty clean fluid as 50% is replaced each time.

 

Many modern cars have "life time filled" fluid. But what does that mean? It means after the car is out of warranty, you'll eventually need a transmission soon rather than later. Fluid turns acidic over time, when it does, it eats away the metal.

Typically a simple drain and fill will do, no need to flush.

 

Hi, thanks for all the info!

Yes, I do tend to trust the mechsnic; he was a Volvo dealer tech until he decided to open his own shop about 10 years ago, so he would have had experience with my car while still at Volvo.

What i I don't want of course is to replace the fluid and suddenly need a new transmission, because if that happens, that's the end of the car (not worth it money wise to keep it). That would be a shame, because it's still runnjig great and has really been a very reliable car.

So, it seems like we will have a good few years left with this car, so long as we don't torpedo the tranny one way or another!

Anyway, thanks again for the reply and let me know what fluid you recommend. Thanks!

 

A fluid change on an AW 55-50 is pretty easy to do. A drain and fill will take right at 4 quarts of Mobil 3309.

The fluid is becoming very affordable and easy to find on eBay. Buy a case and do two full drain and fills, that will get you as close to new fluid as you can get.

Doing a full flush is not necessary.

 

I had an operation and things are no longer in the order they once were.

As far as good fluids go, I have used these a bunch in 4 different AW55-50 trannies without problems.
Mobil 3309
Wolf's Head Super Universal Synthetic Transmission Fluid (ships FREE from the Amaliestore.com)
Toyota Type IV (aka T-IV)
MaxLife Dex/Merc LV (the LV HAS TO BE ON THE LABEL)