Changing transmission fluid by filler tube.
#1
Changing transmission fluid by filler tube.
Hello everyone,
I have a 2001 v70 2.4t with 72,000 miles. The trans fuild is starting to go darker so, I thought I would suck some ATF out of the filler tube and replace with each oil change time. I hope that I am not the only one who thought of this. Any idea of how much ATF come out the filler tube and if this is a good idea?
I have a 2001 v70 2.4t with 72,000 miles. The trans fuild is starting to go darker so, I thought I would suck some ATF out of the filler tube and replace with each oil change time. I hope that I am not the only one who thought of this. Any idea of how much ATF come out the filler tube and if this is a good idea?
#2
#3
Thanks for the reply,
I was wondering If changing 3 quarts from the top without using ramps, removing and reinstalling skid plate would "keep" the ATF in good condition without the mess. I am assuming that I can suck that amount of ATF from the filler tube (it should go to the pan). I get my Volvo engine oil and filter changed at a shop every 5,000 miles. I have JWS3309 for Aisin-Warner Transmissions for $5 a quart so it is not a cost factor.
I have a 1983 MB 300SD with 350,000 miles which I do oil tube and filter changes my self from the top since about the 1990's.
I was hopping that I am not missing something that other forum members can see as a problem.
I was wondering If changing 3 quarts from the top without using ramps, removing and reinstalling skid plate would "keep" the ATF in good condition without the mess. I am assuming that I can suck that amount of ATF from the filler tube (it should go to the pan). I get my Volvo engine oil and filter changed at a shop every 5,000 miles. I have JWS3309 for Aisin-Warner Transmissions for $5 a quart so it is not a cost factor.
I have a 1983 MB 300SD with 350,000 miles which I do oil tube and filter changes my self from the top since about the 1990's.
I was hopping that I am not missing something that other forum members can see as a problem.
#6
#7
Pick one!
I don't know if there's an obstruction in your suction tube's pathway to the bottom of the trannie's sump.
If it works, you're in. You know how easy it is. Rolling up a pair of ramps, removing the plastic shield and unscrewing the 24mm plug is also easy.
The benefit I see with unscrewing the drain plug is that you get a high velocity drain from the bottom of the sump. Raise the right (pass. side) higher with wood and you'll get closer to 4 qts. out.
Both are incomplete fluid removals. You can easily "catch up" and maintain the fluid cleanliness you desire. Both will work.
If you have an aversion to ramps etc., you can disconnect the cooling line and pump it all out in one session. Even there I prefer to do a sump drain so the pump out is done with 100% fresh fluid. You will need a catch pan with an open side and a pour spout (<$10). Do not get the one with a closed side so you can lift it like a suitcase. The draining fluid will hit the surface and splash a lot.
If it works, you're in. You know how easy it is. Rolling up a pair of ramps, removing the plastic shield and unscrewing the 24mm plug is also easy.
The benefit I see with unscrewing the drain plug is that you get a high velocity drain from the bottom of the sump. Raise the right (pass. side) higher with wood and you'll get closer to 4 qts. out.
Both are incomplete fluid removals. You can easily "catch up" and maintain the fluid cleanliness you desire. Both will work.
If you have an aversion to ramps etc., you can disconnect the cooling line and pump it all out in one session. Even there I prefer to do a sump drain so the pump out is done with 100% fresh fluid. You will need a catch pan with an open side and a pour spout (<$10). Do not get the one with a closed side so you can lift it like a suitcase. The draining fluid will hit the surface and splash a lot.
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