So 2 months ago I bought a 2003 Volvo V70 with 313,050 miles. I knew it had some issues, both front windows were off-track, rear worked fine (bought new window clips and fixed them myself as I had experience with this as the BMW 318Ti I had prior was notorious for this) and it had a severe misfire (replaced cyl 3 ignition coil and all has been well), currently at 314,085, been over 1,000 miles with ZERO issues. Currently i'm thinking to myself that Volvos are indestructible and will literally run forever? No rust (even though the car has lived in Maine, USA all its life). Original engine/transmission, etc. I had a question though, I had an oil change done at a reputable place here in Maine, USA. He said that the car requires conventional oil, so I let them go ahead and do it, that was 800 miles ago. Car still running fantastic, no check engine lights, etc. However, I thought the car required synthetic? Is this the case or no? ALSO, the car is an Automatic with a "W" button, which I assume means "Winter" and I ABSOLUTELY loveeeee the way it drives in Winter mode... The transmission feels so tight in this mode, the question is... Is it damaging to drive the car in "W" mode year round? I'd love to drive in "W" mode always, but if its damaging, obviously I won't. Thank you so much!

 

Regular oil is fine. 10w30 or 10w40 in hot climates.I would say is that there is no reason for it in dry weather. The torque is less at takeoff from 2nd gear so why do it?

 

I believe they used 5w30, since here in Maine the temps are anywhere between -20 F to 90 F. From what I understand, putting it in "W" mode makes the transmission start off from 2nd gear... However, I like the feel of it... This is the only car that i've had that literally shifts from 1st to 2nd within the first few MPH. (Unless the transmission I have is defective?). The transmission seems to be in 4th gear by the time I reach 30-ish MPH. (Is that normal?). Running in "W" mode, it seems more less of a "slush-box transmission" and a more crisp transmission.

 

It is a 5--speed unit. The first shift is within a few seconds. Yes, by 40 you are probably ready for 5th gear.

 

Though I'm not on the welcoming committee I say WELCOME.

1) What you want to do is visually inspect the rear parking brake hardware. In brief, the shoe linings' glue gives out and pieces of lining whirling about can cause more damage than a piggy bank's contents cover. I didn't make that one up.

2) Do a "glove test" whereby you open the oil fill cap and stretch a rubber glove or balloon over the opening and see if it sucks in. If it blows out the PCV system is clogged and needs fixing (parts replacement). If the pressure is allowed to stay positive your cam seals will be blown out.

2a) Many people feel the more highly refined synthetic oils produce fewer chunks (sludge). These chunks impede the operation of the PCV system mentioned above. ERGO, many people go with synthetics. Also, synthetics have a good track record for cleaning over conventionals but I'd bet there are exceptions. Again, this isn't of my invention. Many have learned the hard way.

3) CLOSELY INSPECT the timing belt and its rollers (tensioner + idler) as well as the water pump. Without history you do not know. A roller can seize and take the belt out and your valves will hit pistons. That's bad. Also, the hearty water pumps are said to go for 2 timing belt changes. Any movement or leaking of the pumps shaft means it's time for a new VOLVO pump. Never buy any other. Again, many before us have learned the hard way.

4) Up to now I always heard that putting the car in "W" mode started it in 3rd gear, not 2nd. I gotta check that.

5) I sold my 2002 with 198,600 miles on it and I thought I was cool. 315K on an '03. You da man!

 

I would not drive a car in winter mode all the time. It probably won't hurt it, but it generates heat that really doesn't need to be created.