Hello,

Few months ago I bought a 2002 Wagon, V70 normally aspirated.

It has 146K miles, in decent shape.

The service message now comes on telling me the car needs servicing. I need to change the Oil and filter which I have not done before on this car.

So my questions:

1- Oil filter cartridge. Does it matter which one I buy? Is there much difference between these ?

Is this Bosch one any good ??


2- Which Oil to use on the Wagon ?

The local auto parts store tells me Volvo needs Synthetic Oil 10-30 or 5-30 and ONLY synthetic Oil.

One independent Volvo shop tells me to use 1 Quart of Synthetic with the rest being regular Oil.

I have a supply of Valvoline 10-40 MaxLife Oil (Regular Oil). Can I use that ?

What should I use and why ? If synthetic why would regular Oil hurt this car or is not recommended ?

Finally once I change oil and filter, how do I reset the service message ? Do I need a special tool or a code reader ?

Thank you all.

 

Volvo engineered the engine on regular old oil. In a hot climate 10w40 will be good, cooler climates 10w30.

We buy filters from Bosch and other suppliers for around $3.00 each. The best filter and oil are the ones that you change regularly.

 

Where do you get the filters for $3 each ?

I live in California, it never gets that cold, it does get hot at times. Northern California.

So are you saying that what I was told about Synthetic being specified is NOT accurate ?

Thank you.

 

The car does not require synthetic. See your owners manual.

 

Owners manual will talk to "hard driving" conditions - ie do you tow? live in extreme heat cold climates etc? For the difference of $1-2 you can go to an OEM filter. I buy in bulk from online stores like FCP and use Mann filters at about $6 a pop. Considering you'd be changing oil 2 to3x a year, you will use up a case of 10 in normal ownership. As to synthetic vs dino, there's no downsize to synthetic other than cost. It won't magically restore your engine but does resist breaking down over time. If you follow the factory maintenance schedule, you should are doing good - but nothing says you can't change more frequent (say at 5000 miles vs 7500). The manual will advise on choice of oil weight. A third choice is high mileage blends - they have seal softeners which may be helpful if you decide to move to synthetic.

2002 VOLVO V70

See the link for your maintenance schedule

 

Hello In California, Congrats on the purchase of your '2002 base. I owned one for 9 years and sold it with 198,600 miles to the very first guy who test drove it.

1) Here's what I've found regarding resetting the service reminder:
Resetting the Service reminder indicator (SRI), model years -2001
The service reminder indicator remains lit for 120 seconds when the ignition is switched on.
Note! If the lamp flashes, it may be because one of the service parameters has not been programmed.
Proceed as follows to reset:

-Ignition position I
-Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
-Ignition position II
-The service reminder indicator (SRI) starts flashing when the reset button for the trip odometer has been pressed for 10 seconds
-Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 5 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded.
Note! If the trip meter reset button is not released within 5 seconds the indicator is not reset. However the indicator will stop flashing.

Resetting the service reminder indicator (SRI), model years 2002-
The service reminder is displayed for 120 s each time the ignition is switched on.
-Ignition position I
-Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
-Ignition position II.
Note! Turn the key to position II within 2 seconds.
-Hold the reset button for the trip meter pressed in until the original value has been reset.
Note! For all vehicles from the 2003 model year a general yellow lamp will light when the reset button must be released.
-Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 4 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded
-If the trip meter is already reset the reset button should be held in for a minimum of 10 seconds and a maximum of 14 seconds.
Note! If the reset button for the trip odometer is not released within 4 seconds, the service reminder indicator (SRI) is not reset.

I hope this helps.

2) Regarding oil selection. You bought your car used with 14X,XXX miles. You DO NOT KNOW how well the car was maintained.
I'd simply use a synthetic because, on average, they clean better than conventional oils.
Various waxes and other "non-oil" junk is processed out of synthetics so I'd just go with them.

As far as filters go; as stated above, go through known internet dealers like FCPeuroparts, IPDUSA and eEuroparts. Buy MANN, Mahle, Genuine Volvo. Other companies are BOSCH, Cortico, WIX. Many of the old familiar makers do not make a cartridge for our cars. Also, the vendors mentioned above also have the aluminum crush washers for reasonable prices. You can't always find them in auto parts stores.

You should perform at least one drain & fill on the transmission. The trannie's drain plug takes the same aluminum crush washer as the oil drain plug.
Get 4 quarts of any 3309 compliant fluid. Toyota T-IV fluid is one. There is a variety of ones which work just fine. The aforementioned internet sources also sell fluids which work. THe best kept secret is to go to amaliestore.com and buy your oil and "Super Universal Synthetic Transmission Fluid" there. Shipping is free over $39 and the stuff comes to your door. You truly cannot beat the price OR convenience.

I'm on my 3rd V70. I used both conventional and synthetic 5W-30 for the longest time and just recently switched to a synthetic 0W-40.

Hope some of this helps you. Enjoy your V70. They are great cars.


_________

 

Thanks so much for the info.

Tried to do the Oil change today. Could not get the Oil drain plug to budge, it is so tight the bolt started to strip.

I can tell from the sticker on the windshield that the previous owner had the last oil change done at Quality Tuneup. I will call them on Monday and have them Un-loosen the bolt or even do a free oil change since they are the ones who tightened the bolt so tight...I am sure using an air gun. So stupid.

 

Good luck with that, getting a shop to admit to doing something stupid like overtightening an oil plug, especially on a car you just bought.

Full synthetic is preferred as it is better oil with better lubing/cleaning/lasting qualities. In Germany you can't even buy mineral oil anymore, for example. Also, with synthetic you can extend change intervals, easily go twice the mileage.

Filter, if you really love your car use MANN, or Mahle, OEM--they cost about the same as the others and are just better.

 

 

Most shops do not have the correct aluminum sealing washer to put between the drain plug and the pan. I've seen those drain plugs tightened to the point that the oil pan was cracked because Elmer and Bubba didn't know that it needed a washer. Every time the customer complained about an oil drip they tightened it more until they cracked the pan.

Do your own oil changes. Buy a supply of aluminum drain plug seals and also oil cap seals. Change the aluminum drain plug seal at each oil change and the rubber seat on the oil cap every two years.

 

 

I do my own Oil changes. The previous owner had the oil changed at a shop.

I called them and complained about not being able to remove the Oil drain plug. I went there and they removed the plug & replaced it with a new one. The manager there also drained the oil and replaced it with the new oil and filter that I brought with me at no charge, on the phone he wanted to charge me "Labor". I complained that it is extra work for me because I would have to lift the car and do the work again.

I checked & he replaced the plug with a new one & a new washer. I told him not to tighten it so tight that I could not remove it. I also checked and there are no leaks.

It has been decades since I stepped into an oil changing place.

 

I continue to be amazed that people take their European model anything into Jolly Rancher Oil Change Place and expect things to be done right. There is always someone here with a story about something that went wrong.

Over the years, I've become convinced that there is virtually no training at these places and the only quality work that comes is from someone who has pride in his/her own work.

About five years ago we had a customer call us about a car they bought that had a problem some year or so after purchase. The story was that something "let loose" and oil was leaking out of the bottom of the engine.

We looked at the car and found that the oil drain plug was not correct for the oil pan and that someone had either used an impact gun or a very long breaker bar to insert the drain plug. The oil plan threads were totally chewed to hell and the oil pan was now junk.

In our records we did an oil change on the vehicle and they admitted to having it done at a place that "does oil changes". We told them what was wrong and ended up fixing the car. We ordered a new oil pan, drain plug and aluminum washer. When we removed the oil filter that they supposedly installed, it is clear that the oil filter had never been changed and was the brand that we commonly used.

So, either do it yourself and know that things are done right or visit the dealer.