I live in CT in New England, I'm due for an oil change on my new to me, 176k mile 2001 XC70, what oil weight/filters do you use/recommend? I'll be running this up to Nov. most likely till my next change, it's got regular non synth in it now.

I want to run full synth, I've always used mobil 1, hell I use it to lubricate my firearms too, but I've seen some issues, recently with either the Mann or Mahle, I can't remember just now, but there was a defect that was blowing motors, so I may just run an OEM filter from FCP. I live about 15 minutes from them, so it's a "will call" go get convenience with them.

Volvo recommends 5w/30 and this summer has been mild, I don't drive nutty, not like a grandmother but not like a kid either so I don't see any need for 10/30,...no "extreme" environments, but it does get cold here in the winter. This car sees a lot of stop and go, up hills, down them-not tons of highway miles.

I'll check the PCV too for fouling etc.

As much as I hate Walmart for destroying small town America, I will embrace the dark side and buy my oil there for sheer price.

Sound good? Or is there something you folks like for any reason. I tent to think that any claims made by oil companies about "extended life" or what not, detergents, etc. are just bunk. If I'm wrong tell me, but again I go with what I know and Mobil 1 is what I know.

 

The way to read the numbers is the first number is the cold viscosity - ie a 5W is good below -20F where 10W is good to -5F. The high number is the warm viscosity - at 85 or more the 30W gets thin where a 40W keeps its viscosity. The owners manual suggests either 5W/30 or 10W/30.. I run 5W/30 synthetic in my 2000 S40, 10/40 high mileage in my 850T, and 5/40 Syntec synthetic in my VW CC (here in CT also), so I wouldn't over think the choice of weight. As to brand, Volvo specs are for ILSAC specification GF-2, including ACEA A1, API SJ, SJ/CF and SJ/Energy Conserving. Most major brands - Castrol etc will meet these specs - there's some web pages that will list by product to compare. One word of note - it is possible that switching from dino to synthetic may create leaks. This is more true of the older cars (like my daughter's 850T) where the synthetic is slippery enough to leak by older style seals where the dino won't. So try it out but keep an eye for any spotting. You can also hedge by trying a blend, but you should be able to get a fair price on a national brand synthetic at Walmart (as I do). When it comes to filters, I buy my OEMs in bulk from FCP as well.

 

Sound and solid per usual sir, I did find other comments as to the full synth creating leaks, but I' think I'll chance it. Thank you, I found a pretty damn good step by step change procedure on another forum, but it called for the filter to be changed first and pre-filling it with new oil for the pump, then the drain plug pulled. And torque specs of 17 nm on the filter, or 1/4 turn past hand tight, and 25 nm on a new aluminum crush washer on the plug nut.

Sound about right?

 

I think the full synthetic leaking is like old guys (me) who still think you can't rotate radials. It may have been true at one time but the synthetic oil has advanced and so has seal technology. I run synthetic in my 1976 garden tiller, snow blowers and my high mileage cars and it doesn't leak any more or any faster than on regular oil.

If you really want to talk oil, this is the place to do it: Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site