Battery???Altenator???Electrical???
#1
Battery???Altenator???Electrical???
I own a 1987 245 GL...having issues with electrical, I think.
Back in January, pulled into a shopping mall, car was running fine...went into mall, came back 10 minutes later, car would not start...had to have it jumped. Went home, turned off ignition and attempted to restart, but would not start. So, I replaced the battery.
About two weeks, after replacing the battery, the lights that come on when you turn the ignition key would not come on anymore.
Then, one day, the car just died in traffic...would not restart even with a jump...had to have it towed. So my mechanic replaced the altenator.
Apparently, the altenator is supposed to charge/read at like 1400 something or other and mine only reads at 1100...car will not start unless jumped and then only runs for about 15 minutes and then dies...any ideas???
Back in January, pulled into a shopping mall, car was running fine...went into mall, came back 10 minutes later, car would not start...had to have it jumped. Went home, turned off ignition and attempted to restart, but would not start. So, I replaced the battery.
About two weeks, after replacing the battery, the lights that come on when you turn the ignition key would not come on anymore.
Then, one day, the car just died in traffic...would not restart even with a jump...had to have it towed. So my mechanic replaced the altenator.
Apparently, the altenator is supposed to charge/read at like 1400 something or other and mine only reads at 1100...car will not start unless jumped and then only runs for about 15 minutes and then dies...any ideas???
#2
A few simple tests to determine alternator vs battery issues using a volt meter:
1) engine off - measure battery voltage across terminals. Should be 12.5V or so.
2) start car - measure battery voltage across terminals. Should be 14-14.5V or so. If less than 12.6, it mean your alternator is not able to charge the battery.
3) if less than 14 but more than 13V with engine running, add electric load - ie high beams, fan blower on high, rear defroster on. Measure voltage - should be more than 13.
If test 1 fails, bad battery. If test 2 fails, either a voltage regulator or alternator bushings are common. (check if your model can replace just the regulator).
If test 3 fails, clean up battery cable contacts, check cable terminations into Alternator for corrosion etc. - retest after cleaning up.
1) engine off - measure battery voltage across terminals. Should be 12.5V or so.
2) start car - measure battery voltage across terminals. Should be 14-14.5V or so. If less than 12.6, it mean your alternator is not able to charge the battery.
3) if less than 14 but more than 13V with engine running, add electric load - ie high beams, fan blower on high, rear defroster on. Measure voltage - should be more than 13.
If test 1 fails, bad battery. If test 2 fails, either a voltage regulator or alternator bushings are common. (check if your model can replace just the regulator).
If test 3 fails, clean up battery cable contacts, check cable terminations into Alternator for corrosion etc. - retest after cleaning up.
Last edited by mt6127; 05-23-2016 at 01:33 PM.
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