Hi guys, just wondering how and when is the best way to check out the trans. fluid on the newer model volvo's? on my '06 there is a small dipstick way down in the engine bay. Is it better to check it when the engine is cold(first thing in the morning)? does the engine have to be off or idleing? or when it comes to temp, do you check it with the engine running or shut off? thanks
fabs

 

I like to check it with the engine hot after driving it for about 10 minutes or so.
You always leave the engine running when you check the tranny fluid.

 

thanks Tech....in that case i may have a problem...i checked it out today and it seems that it's way over the "hot" mark on the stick..what do i do??? i seriously hope it's not that extra coolant going into the tranny...
fabs

 

You need to read your owner's handbook. Some cars check fluid in park, some in neutral etc.
It can make a big difference to fluid levels.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Have some drained out then watch it over the next few days/week and see if the level goes up again.

 

thanks guys..ya i'll keep an eye out, actually i followed the procedures (shifting) and checked it again after driving for a while, it is okay, just slightly higher then the hot line but not that much.

The other thing is, in terms of getting a fluid flush, is it necessary to get it done at the dealer? is there any "reseting" procedure that needs to be done after the flush? They are asking $300.00
and the garage i go to asked $229.00....and it's synthetic fluid they use....
what do you think? thanks
fabs

 

The regular shop should be fine.

 

As long as the fluid meets the spec which you will find in your owner's manual.
3309 or something like that. Its not Dextron II or III or any of the common auto parts store blends. Mobil makes one, and of course, the "Genuine Volvo" fluid meets the spec, too. There have been multiple threads on this topic here.

Why its so expensive is that the procedure calls for drain, run, re-drain, re-run, re-re-drain and re-re-run. Most fluid stays in the body of the trans and torque convertor, so you're mixing old and new each time, and with each repeat, putting in a higher % of new fluid.

Make sure you're not buying a "power flush" which, according to reports here and elsewhere and even involving other makes (i.e. Honda) acts to kick up crud and deposit it in bad places within the trans. No power flush. So using the recommended method, use 12 quarts+ which adds to expense.

 

I personally don't like flushes because they are so wasteful.
I prefer to drop the pan or undo sump drain bolt, refill, drain, refill etc.
The flush method takes a LOT of fluid to make a difference, draining the sump typically changes 25 to 33% of the fluid at once. You can usually get away with using a mere 8 litres this way.
I also like to eyeball the transmission pan for early warnngs of something bad happening and to change the filter, if so equipped.

Regards, Andrew.