So, I have been having lots of trouble with my 2004 s40 t5 lately and recently had to have it towed to a dealership 60 miles away. The steering wheel had locked up ad the car wouldn't start. I had also been having trouble with a rough idle. After 4 days of diagnostic work they have no idea why the car steering lock up, but they finally got the car to start consistently. They speculate that the lock mechanism is going bad but don't to sell and install the part if they aren't certain that's the problem. As with the rough idle they finally determined that it is "probably" the mass air flow sensor which is causing my car to surge and idle roughly.

They told me it would cost $600 to replace the sensor. I called my local mechanic would just two weeks ago cleaned the sensor for me and asked how badly they were going to screw me. Average price of sensors are around $300, so another $300 to undo two security torx and replace the sensor? No. I then called back and told them that I would probably just replace it myself. As soon as I said that I got the normal attitude I fugured I would get and the tech went on to tell me that the sensor would have to be calibrated if I bought an aftermarket one? Does anyone know if that is correct??????

I also told him that I had recently had the sensor cleaned twice and that I was a little skeptical about that being the problem. He told me that "you should never clean the sensor, even though people tell you to." Everywhere that I have seen, not once did I see anyone mention not cleaning the sensor? Anyone know anything about this???

Why do dealerships try and **** you in the ***!?

 

Just a few thoughts;
The are good dealers and bad dealers. There are NO cheap dealers. They have a big overhead and new car sales don't make much profit compared to service and used car sales. Personally, I'll pay top dollar for first class work, but won't pay a penny for 2nd rate work. This guy you're going to doesn't seem to instill alot of confidence in you and I would go elsewhere(but that's just me)
If you have cleaned your sensor twice recently I would want to know why- they don't need cleaned very often. On an '04 it is not inconcievible that the sensor could be bad any way (miles?) and yours has had alot of cleaning with God knows what. If the plugs and wires were good it is a reasonable guess but not w/o a guarantee that it would solve my problem.
You kind of throw in the starting problem in the middle of your post, then mention that they apparently fixed that. How?
This local mechanic you mention, why did you not have it towed to him? Would of been cheaper. Is it because he just cleaned your sensor 2 weeks ago? And the the car started running rough, not starting and the steering wheel locked right after he worked on it? And he is "casting stones" at the dealer? I think you need to look for someone else altogether.

 

if it is the mass air flow sensor and that is what the told you it was, that just search around, mine went right after i bought my c70 and the used car dealer and i managed to find 1 brand new on i think ebay for $80.there is no calibration needed my c70 runs smooth with just a simple install of a new map sensor and a tune-up, smoother than my 2005 grand prix with 1/2 the mileage i might add

 

Donf,
Sorry I just stated rambling with all of my thoughts and I have left a few things out. Let me start from the beginning:

The whole problem with my car started about a month ago with my car losing power when I was going down the highway. The check engine light came on and the error code read "air leak between MAF and throttle body" I took my car to my local import auto mechanic and they cleaned the MAF and returned the car. It ran fine for about a week, then began to sporadically idle extremely rough. I cleaned the MAF myself, to see if that would solve the problem. At the same time I removed the throttle body (which was extremely dirty) and cleaned and reinstalled. I started my car once everything was put back together and my car began to idle even rougher and also was sputtering and back firing when I would step on the gas. Pissed off, I called it a night and left it for the morning.

The next morning I went out to start my car to see if it was any better and it wouldn't even start. The car would click once and acted like the battery was dead. In my display window it read "steering wheel locked, try again". But, the steering wheel was not locked. The car thought the steering wheel was locked and would not allow the car to start. No Error codes, sometimes a flashing check engine light, not always. Without being able to even start my car now, I had it towed to my local mechanic. After a day of diagnostics by them, and still being unable to start it, they determined the steering wheel lock mechanism was bad or the software to unlock the steering wheel needed to be reinstalled. The only problem was that they were unable to do they procedures at there shop and the closest place was in at the dealership 60 miles away.

Luckily, my insurance covered a flat bed ride for my car to the dealership. After 3 days at the dealership they were unable to determine the problem with the steering wheel lock, but were now able to consistently start the car. The sputtering they determined was caused a bad MAF and wanted to charge me 600$ to replace. No! I just bought one online for 115$.

My local mechanic is the problem. I feel like a dealer of volvo vehicles should be able to easily diagnose problems with their own vehicles! If I install the MAF that I just bought and my car doesn't run any better, I am going to be pissed. I will pay for top notch work as well, however, I will not pay for sub par work from a dealer who is out to screw their customers. Even when they can't 100% diagnose the problem. I would go to another dealer without a second thought if it wasn't 4 hours away.

I should be getting my new MAF sensor in a few days and I will easily install it myself in 5 minutes and save 300$. If this doesn't fix my car I am unsure of what I will do next (probably leave it in a dark alley with the keys in it). I understand that dealerships have a huge overhead, all I want is for them to back up their vehicles and be able to be honest with me and not screw me. I bought my volvo for a reason but I am quickly loosing my love for this car.

 

Most stealers that do not have a competing dealership with 50 miles do suck. I have to live with one here in Little Rock. I try not to even go there for parts, which they charge double what another dealer across the country charges. So I usually order my stealer parts from NC.

Similar to the situation you have, they don't trouble shoot very well either. If your local mechanic had to clean the MAF, it is likely that problem. About 1/2 the time that works for longer than an week. A lot of places do NOT clean MAF's for that reason. They charge an hour of labor to do it just to have it fail within 30 days and have to charge 1/2 of the people to replace them. As to why they claim you would have to get one calibrated, they may have been referring to an after market MAF or they were just trying to secure work. The stealer here charges to tell you what's wrong with it, not sure why the get the *** when you thank them for the info they gave you and they charge $$$ for the info anyway.

It's tough on the indi shops that can't afford to stay up to date with all the software stuff that these cars need. I hope I'm really well off before I need to get a software driven car. It sucks when they hickup.

As for the notice that the steering wheel is locked up is concerned... is that still on display? Even with the car running? That's crazy. I had a car at our stealer once and they never did find the problem with the car. I figured it out after I picked it up when they gave up. I then sent them a bill which they did pay. Why should I have to do their job without pay?!

Hang in there man. I'll be the last person to tell you to keep a mid 2000 Volvo. If it were older I would tell you to fix it and keep stepping. The jury is not in on the 2000 cars yet, wether they will last 18 years like the pre-2000 cars.

 

Thanks, I think they should officially change dealership to stealers....I like it!

 

easy way to test the maf sensor, unplug it and start the car, if it runs smooth it is most likely the problem (though I wouldn't suggest driving it with it unplugged, as the car will be running super rich) or at least that what worked with my c70 with diagnosing the problem.

 

The last dealers I contacted about timing belt (and other related parts plus replacement service) for a Volvo 740 wagon with turbodiesel 6cyl engine (1985), they just laughed and said: "my friend listen to me, we repair only 'VOLVO-s' and no cars with converted fake engines from other cars, understand?" .... What a shame.
They do not know about the early diesel volvos. So I am totally horrified by any major repairs that come by on this car.
I wanted to say this: "you, of course, do not repair volvos at all AND any more, because they do not exist any more, my friend" but I stfu and drove away.