Tire pressure sensor
what model/year do you own? does your car have metal valve stems or rubber (metal stems mean you have the in-wheel sensor, rubber using the ABS signals to detect a flat - this is common to the 2015+ models)
the standard procedure for your model is to confirm all tire pressures are correct via a pressure guage, then drive at least 25 mph for "several minutes" (ie go for a 15 minute drive) and the system should automatically reset. If it doesn't reset, the recalibration takes a dealer tool or it may mean that one of the sensors needs servicing (your model has the in wheel sensor)
Last edited by mt6127; Jul 10, 2019 at 09:40 PM.
I have the same question(s)-sort of.
I recently bought an 08 XC90 3.2.
Previous owner noted that the TPMS occasionally comes on, and this is a good reminder to check (DUH!) the tires. He said that he would check/fill as necessary, and it would generally go off, but it would do so intermittently. He also noted that he lived in town, and had a short commute, so I suspect that if he didn't drive it for 20-30 miles, it wouldn't reset things.
I got the TPMS light, checked all pressures, and filled accordingly. I, too, didn't immediately drive it for the time (*see question below) and then, 3 days later, the light went out.
Now, I'll make with the questions:
1. Does anybody with the tech/electronic knowledge of the TPMS in these know if it is minutes or miles--that the computer needs to reset?
2. On that '08, when a TPMS alert comes on, it doesn't indicate *which* wheel is the troublemaker. --So, can you find that info out with further digging, via an OBD II?
2(b) -Should I just get an OBD II? I have broad car knowledge, having pulled an engine in an 83 Mazda RX-7, replaced the clutch...
Replaced motor mounts, shocks, and other suspension parts in an 83 MB 300 SD,
Replaced a clutch in an 83 Yamaha Virago
(What is it with this guy, and 1983 vehicles?!?!?)
-And so on (I also did shift linkage work on a 1961 Ford Falcon, but that one broke with the above *83* line...)
My inclination is to just get an OBD. I would prefer to do all the work I could on this vehicle, but it is admittedly the most-technologically-laden car I would ever have worked on...
-So are there any recommendations as to an OBD, and any specific type/or level of tool to get?
I recently bought an 08 XC90 3.2.
Previous owner noted that the TPMS occasionally comes on, and this is a good reminder to check (DUH!) the tires. He said that he would check/fill as necessary, and it would generally go off, but it would do so intermittently. He also noted that he lived in town, and had a short commute, so I suspect that if he didn't drive it for 20-30 miles, it wouldn't reset things.
I got the TPMS light, checked all pressures, and filled accordingly. I, too, didn't immediately drive it for the time (*see question below) and then, 3 days later, the light went out.
Now, I'll make with the questions:
1. Does anybody with the tech/electronic knowledge of the TPMS in these know if it is minutes or miles--that the computer needs to reset?
2. On that '08, when a TPMS alert comes on, it doesn't indicate *which* wheel is the troublemaker. --So, can you find that info out with further digging, via an OBD II?
2(b) -Should I just get an OBD II? I have broad car knowledge, having pulled an engine in an 83 Mazda RX-7, replaced the clutch...
Replaced motor mounts, shocks, and other suspension parts in an 83 MB 300 SD,
Replaced a clutch in an 83 Yamaha Virago
(What is it with this guy, and 1983 vehicles?!?!?)
-And so on (I also did shift linkage work on a 1961 Ford Falcon, but that one broke with the above *83* line...)
My inclination is to just get an OBD. I would prefer to do all the work I could on this vehicle, but it is admittedly the most-technologically-laden car I would ever have worked on...
-So are there any recommendations as to an OBD, and any specific type/or level of tool to get?
the thing to know about TPMS systems is that there are two types - those with in wheel sensors (ie rims with metal valve stems) and those that use the wheel speed sensors to calculate a change in rolling circumference. Volvo moved to the latter in about 2015 or so. The metal stem model do need servicing from time to time, particularly up north where road salt can corrode the stems. The ABS sensor design is simpler but can have false positives when driving in snow. Different models have a reset procedure - best to check the owners manual. To note, my wife's highlander has a reset button, my VW CC doesn't need a reset, it just turns the light off when all four tires report 20 PSI or more. Go figure... As to the OBD2 reader, I think everyone should have at least a basic CEL code reader but they go up in price as they add functionality. OBD2 codes are divided into sets - all readers can read the generic power train/emission codes (such as a $29 Cen-tech from Harbor Freight). As you go up scale, you can add support for ABS codes, SRS codes, model specific proprietary codes. Most models after 2000 or so use the CAN bus protocol and most readers support the same. Finally, you can get into even more sophisticated code readers when can do special functions like reset electronic parking brakes, read proprietary data, read more proprietary codes and real time data. For example, say you want to change the transmission fluid on a six speed Aisin. Volvo says the correct level is measured when the tranny is at 55C. How do you do that? Buy a VIDA-DICE tool :-)
So the net of all this is, depending on what you can/need to do, there's a matching tool. BTW, the other code reader feature to look for is whether you want a hand held device or an adaptor that then feeds data to an app on a phone or PC such as the BlueDriver device (comes with the app).
So the net of all this is, depending on what you can/need to do, there's a matching tool. BTW, the other code reader feature to look for is whether you want a hand held device or an adaptor that then feeds data to an app on a phone or PC such as the BlueDriver device (comes with the app).
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