1987 740 gle cnetral door lock problem
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I'd probably arm myself with the greenbook wiring diagram for your year/model, and a volt/ohm meter, and start checking voltages and stuff while manually exercising the lock... there's a central locking relay which gets involved.
here's the wiring diagram for 1992 740/940 central locks... afaik, they all are pretty much the same.
so, the drivers door lock **** has a switch (3/14), this indicates the lock is going up or down, it goes to the relay 2/7, whihc powers the solenoids at the other locks and tells them to also lock or unlock, this switch is wired to a relay in the central console (forward of the ashtray), and that relay runs the lock solenoids on the other 3 doors, and the trunk. its not a simple relay, it has a little circuit board inside with some electronics, and two relays, one for lock, one for unlock.
looking at this diagram, I see 3 possible failure modes... 1) the switch on the drivers door lock plunger is messed up. 2) the relay is messed up. 3) the wiring to/from the drivers door is messed up. if your car is a 1987, it may be subject to the 'biodegradable wiring' that plagued volvos from 1982 to 1987.
if you pull that relay (on the 92, its the middle one on the row closest to the fuses, behind the ashtray), and probe the pins, pin 4 should be grounded when you unlock, and pin 9 should be grounded when you lock. If this test fails, its the switch or the driver door wiring.
if you jumper pin 2 to 3, and momentarily jumper pin 1 to 5, the locks should unlock. if you jumper pin 2 to 5 and momentarily jumper 1 to 3, they should lock. if all those tests pass, odds are its the relay.
here's the wiring diagram for 1992 740/940 central locks... afaik, they all are pretty much the same.
so, the drivers door lock **** has a switch (3/14), this indicates the lock is going up or down, it goes to the relay 2/7, whihc powers the solenoids at the other locks and tells them to also lock or unlock, this switch is wired to a relay in the central console (forward of the ashtray), and that relay runs the lock solenoids on the other 3 doors, and the trunk. its not a simple relay, it has a little circuit board inside with some electronics, and two relays, one for lock, one for unlock.
looking at this diagram, I see 3 possible failure modes... 1) the switch on the drivers door lock plunger is messed up. 2) the relay is messed up. 3) the wiring to/from the drivers door is messed up. if your car is a 1987, it may be subject to the 'biodegradable wiring' that plagued volvos from 1982 to 1987.
if you pull that relay (on the 92, its the middle one on the row closest to the fuses, behind the ashtray), and probe the pins, pin 4 should be grounded when you unlock, and pin 9 should be grounded when you lock. If this test fails, its the switch or the driver door wiring.
if you jumper pin 2 to 3, and momentarily jumper pin 1 to 5, the locks should unlock. if you jumper pin 2 to 5 and momentarily jumper 1 to 3, they should lock. if all those tests pass, odds are its the relay.
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