1988 240 instrument cluster wiring
#1
1988 240 instrument cluster wiring
I have 3 wires that are not connected (left over if you will)...red/white which is tach and won’t be used...and a solid blue and solid orange wires and the only spot they can go is the dual male spade connecter on the back of the panel..problem is idk if both are used or just one and if so which side of the dual spade connector. Thanks in advanced
#2
I have 3 wires that are not connected (left over if you will)...red/white which is tach and won’t be used...and a solid blue and solid orange wires and the only spot they can go is the dual male spade connecter on the back of the panel..problem is idk if both are used or just one and if so which side of the dual spade connector. Thanks in advanced
Does everything work with the blue and orange wires left loose?
#3
#4
that yellow indicator is likely the lamp failure detector, they get overly sensitive with age, and any difference in current between the left and right (pick a light) can trigger it, including differences caused by socket or connector corrosion. if its lighting when you step on the brake, then its the brake lamp circuits. sometimes using Caig DeOxit D100 on all the connector contacts and bulb sockets can help. make sure all your tail lamp bulbs are the chrome socket variety and NOT the brass ones, those don't get along well with European car sockets. also replace bulbs in pairs, if a left light goes out, replace the right one with the same exact bulb type as you sued on the left.
#6
that yellow indicator is likely the lamp failure detector, they get overly sensitive with age, and any difference in current between the left and right (pick a light) can trigger it, including differences caused by socket or connector corrosion. if its lighting when you step on the brake, then its the brake lamp circuits. sometimes using Caig DeOxit D100 on all the connector contacts and bulb sockets can help. make sure all your tail lamp bulbs are the chrome socket variety and NOT the brass ones, those don't get along well with European car sockets. also replace bulbs in pairs, if a left light goes out, replace the right one with the same exact bulb type as you sued on the left.
as far as the orange and blue wires behind the cluster I am going to leave them as they are as I don’t want to risk anything messing up as it appears everything else is fine..other than the lighting behind the cluster which I have yet to figure out.
#7
1. Everything seems to work fine
2. I notice that the left side of the cluster isn’t lit
3. left turn signal arrow stays illuminated at all times.
4. Also when I press the brake pedal there is an indicator light on the bottom right of the cluster that is a yellow lightbulb
2. I notice that the left side of the cluster isn’t lit
3. left turn signal arrow stays illuminated at all times.
4. Also when I press the brake pedal there is an indicator light on the bottom right of the cluster that is a yellow lightbulb
2. One of the two instrument illumination bulbs is out
3. ? bad ground? bad connection?
4. You have a brake bulb out, caused by poor/melted connections at the bulb holder in the tail lamps. Very common with 240s. You will find the brake light bulb holders/housing/circuit boards melted and distorted. For a free solution move the brake lights (by moving a wire in each connector at the taillamp) to the rear fog lamp position. (the upper inner positions, if this is a sedan) Wagons have their own list of rear bulb problems - is your car a wagon? Takes a couple of minutes. The bulbs usually have to be identical, same brand and the third brake light bulb needs to work also.
#8
1. Don't plug in any more wires yet - everything works
2. One of the two instrument illumination bulbs is out
3. ? bad ground? bad connection?
4. You have a brake bulb out, caused by poor/melted connections at the bulb holder in the tail lamps. Very common with 240s. You will find the brake light bulb holders/housing/circuit boards melted and distorted. For a free solution move the brake lights (by moving a wire in each connector at the taillamp) to the rear fog lamp position. (the upper inner positions, if this is a sedan) Wagons have their own list of rear bulb problems - is your car a wagon? Takes a couple of minutes. The bulbs usually have to be identical, same brand and the third brake light bulb needs to work also.
2. One of the two instrument illumination bulbs is out
3. ? bad ground? bad connection?
4. You have a brake bulb out, caused by poor/melted connections at the bulb holder in the tail lamps. Very common with 240s. You will find the brake light bulb holders/housing/circuit boards melted and distorted. For a free solution move the brake lights (by moving a wire in each connector at the taillamp) to the rear fog lamp position. (the upper inner positions, if this is a sedan) Wagons have their own list of rear bulb problems - is your car a wagon? Takes a couple of minutes. The bulbs usually have to be identical, same brand and the third brake light bulb needs to work also.
I would like to pick up some cluster bulbs. Do you by chance know what kind of bulbs they are? I would like to pick them up on the way home from work today as well. Thanks
edit: further research leads me to believe they are a 74 light bulb.
Last edited by joshua.muenchow; 12-04-2020 at 10:19 AM.
#9
Brake lights are all working. I am very curious what the other wires are used behind the cluster.
In the meantime I am going to bring some life back to this 240 with new timing belt, tensioner, front seals, v belts, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. She will be a happy camper. Oh and fix the odometer gear!
hopefully those 2 disconnected wires are not used..
In the meantime I am going to bring some life back to this 240 with new timing belt, tensioner, front seals, v belts, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. She will be a happy camper. Oh and fix the odometer gear!
hopefully those 2 disconnected wires are not used..
#10
#11
I seem to remember there's a wire when plugged into the wrong place on the cluster - fries your speedometer. Years ago I had to purchase several speedometers when my of my techs would "accidentally" fry the speedo - so if everything works leave it alone. Or take the speedo completely out of the cluster before you play with the extra wires.
#12
Yeah - it's the red/white tach wire that if you connect to the double spade will fry the ITT chip on the speedometer. OP seems to know this. The only wire that connects to the double spade connector is the wire running to the cruise control unit. I forget the color of that wire. If you don't have cruise control then nothing is connected to the double spade.
#13
Yeah - it's the red/white tach wire that if you connect to the double spade will fry the ITT chip on the speedometer. OP seems to know this. The only wire that connects to the double spade connector is the wire running to the cruise control unit. I forget the color of that wire. If you don't have cruise control then nothing is connected to the double spade.
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Chynabell13
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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06-19-2019 11:35 AM