What's up people? I just picked up another Volvo. I have a 1990 740 Turbo Wagon B230FT now with 142K on it.

I am hearing some knocking from the top of the engine. I did a search on youtube and a bunch of people got on and said that that sound is normal for those 4 cyclinder motors.

It sounds a little like this at the 32 second mark.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRrTo6NbxUA&NR=1

I notice it a little in this fancy motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbRBbfQAO3I

I want my motor to be more like this one (MUST SEE!!!!!!!!!!!):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqg4SVFYRVI&NR=1

BTW: ANyone have book recommendations for this motor and body type or internet resources. It seem like there is a ton of information on the 850 but not so much on the 740s. I have a haynes book for it that is a little difficult to read because they use different lingo than in the us.

This is my first RWD and am trying to figure out how it works. I noted Fred's site. Any other resources out there?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Sounds normal to me. Perhaps, your valves might have a little bit of play.

I once had a bad click, click, click sound coming from my 740 and couldn't for the life of me isolate it, even with a stethoscope. Then, I noticed a leak from the waterpump. Replaced that and the clicking went away.

 

Fred what did you think about that last link I put up? Like to drop that in the Wagon. Over 500 hp. It says it's a b230. It has the dual overhead cams though unlike mine that has the single.

It seems like the word on these motors is that they are durable.

Anyone ever paid to have a one of these motors rebuild? How much did you have done and what was the cost? I am just trying to think worst case scenario what I would be in for. One thing about this car is it looks a lot easier to work on than the 850 for instance. Everything seems really accessible. I can do a lot of the work but can't do the internal motor parts. Although I am reading about how it is done.

Yeah I am not sure where my knock is coming from and it seems to be variable rather than constant. And don't notice it on the freeway. When I put the stethoscope of the valve cover it seems like that is where the noise is coming from.

 

Yes!!!!! Build that B230FT up!

The redblocks are pretty strong, and can hold a good amount of power.....
If I were you and I had some money to spare.....I would send the car to RSI and have them build up the motor for the 500+hp....http://www.r-sportinternational.com/

Not cheap, but not too over priced.

A nice 2.5 stroker kit with a 16V head on a B230FT block would kick ***! Nice T3/T4 turbo and suspension to put the power to the road!

For a motor like that......probably around $5,000 for parts and another$5,000 for supporting parts and labor.....

The sound is very normal....It is the valve tapping.

 

Ok so if it is the valves tapping there is not much I can do about that other than run high grade fuel, run some lucas fuel stabilizer, and do consistent oil changes with the mobile 1 synthetic.

I guess I could do a compression test and see what readings I am getting. The other thing I wanted to do is check the condition of the plugs.

I have checked the oil and coolant and there does not seem like there is any mixing of the fluid. Not blue or white smoke from the exhaust.

BTW: TIPSP that is a sweet set of rigs you got there! I need to look over your mods to your 740 turbo. What engine do you have in that? It looks like mine but I noticed it is a year later. You have the 91 and mine is a 90.

 

Thanks.....it is the same B230FT as you...... The 90 and 91 are basicly the same.....
I have only done simple bolt on stuff, and I plan on doing a lot more.....once I get some money. HAHAHA.

Your car sounds like it is running properly, so just keep up with regular maintenance, and you'll do fine.

Before you do any engine mods, you need to have a solid stage zero (getting the car back to the way it left the factory).

 

Stage zero... yes, I copied down what those things are today. I am going to take care of those bit by bit. The guy that I bought from had all the maintenance records since 96 and he was consistent with oil changes using the mobile 1. The motor is clean. I'll get some pics this weekend. Supposed to get some good weather.

Did you notice much difference with the anti sway bars. I see that IPD does a set that cost about $300.

The 850 Turbo is more fun to drive but I like the fact that I have room to haul stuff. The 740 is not bad considering the 4 cylinder. The turbo really helps me think.

 

on those stage zero tasks you mention fuel pumps. I have been hearing about a second fuel pump on cars but I have not seen one. I know there is a pump in the tank. Where is the second pump located?

 

I was young when my dad did the swaybars, Bilstein HDs, and TME springs so I dont remember the car stock.....But yes. the swaybars do make a different. Springs and Shocks/sturts work very well for being 12 years old.....

These cars are pretty quick once you get an exhaust, some tuning chips, and a good cam.

It is under the car, right under the driver side
The fuel filter is next to the main pump.

 

B230FT's (and redblocks in general )are noisy. Why? No hydraulic lash adjusters, forged pistons, designed in an era when reliability was more critical than a quiet engine. My B230FT has horrendous piston slap when cold, it's typical of forged pistons and also has lots of valvetrain noise when cold. Again, normal when you have no hydraulic lash adjustment.

I have found later Haynes books (post say mid 70's) are very badly designed and leave a lot to the imagination.
Just immerse yourself in as much as you can read online, eventually you'll start having "AHA!" moments as things come together for you. It's like any learning curve, initially very steep. Oh, and take anything you read on Turbobricks with a grain of salt.
Best bet for initial maintenence is to go by the service chart in teh owner's manual, and do everything for the 100k service if the car has high mileage. Reliability is a side effect of consistent and regular maintenence.

Regards, Andrew.

 

urbo,

That >500 hp engine is way beyond my capability!

 

What would compression test show in relation to worn rod or main bearing or a slappy valve lifter? I have great compression but a pinging knock when warm and under load

 

never mind, I tried 91 octane gas like the owners manual suggest for "optimum performance" and the pinging went away.

 

I would run 91 octane in any turbo/high compression car. Doesn't matter how much boost, I don't like the Idea of detonation.