We just finished a cold spell, and my car wouldn't start during, but always after -25. It is parked on the street and can not be plugged in. Which sucks.

This time, it will not start, even when attempting to boost from a running vehicle. There is gas on the spark plugs after attempting to start. It turns over with the starter, but will not fire. Seems like there's no fuel, but.. evidence it is getting to the spark plugs.

New starter, battery, alternator. Time to get rid of her, but feel there is more life for my old Ruby Red.. Just very little money in my account.

 

Have you tried to pull the codes yet?

 

Do you have spark? Is it good and bright and constant?

If you have spark and gas, it would seem to be flooded. You can pull the plugs and let it dry out. Try again. If it still does not fire up or sputters, press the gas pedal some. Once it starts, don't rev the engine.

Give this a try if you can't get any help from the pulling codes like Swift said.

I heard cold start injectors on these cars can flood the engines, but in reality, I have no actual experience on this.

 

Yup...you could just disconnect the connector on the cold start injector and see if that helps. But...if you were to pull codes, it might tell you something interesting such as erratic rpm signal or no rpm signal, indicating you should take a look at your crank sensor.

 

Still working at it, but unsuccessful right now. It has dropped back to -23. Good thing I live close to downtown. Thanks for your advice.

 

So I pulled codes on my 1990 volvo 740 turbo (won't start)

232/131/312 Wiring/ Rpm sensor? From #2 slot which is Fuel related.

 

232 is an O2 code, 131 points to the crank sensor and 312 I haven't a clue although 321 is cold start missing signal. So, given your symptoms, I'd say take a peek at the cps. If you do not know where it is, it is mounted low on the back of the engine, There is a slot on the bell housing where it protrudes rearward to measure the slots on the flexplate if auto and the dimples on the flywheel if manual. It's tough to see it...here's the slot on the bell housing for reference. The slot is at the top of the bell housing; if you use a flashlight and peek straight down below your distributor you can just see it.

The crank sensor is probably dead but before you go through the contortinism of removing it, check the 18" pigtail on it. The connector is usually quite easy to access as it plugs into the engine harness up high on the firewall. Occasionally, the connector itself is the culprit. Open it up and look for gross signs of corrosion or bent terminals not making contact. If it looks good, you'll need to order a new cps from someone, maybe one of our sponsors like fcpgroton.com Here's the one you need...
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...ategory_id/116
$35 plus shipping will get you on the road. Be sure to clear the codes from your OBD so any codes you pull from here on out will be fresh.

 

I have found a crack in the wire casing up near the connection along the firewall. The wire itself looks o.k, but moisture ect.? Is it one 10mm bolt that connects the sensor? With a series of extensions and a universal joint seems possible, but not fun. I hear the brackets are really flimsy too.

 

Yup...one single 10mm. The bracket is made from "pot" metal...quite soft. With extensions, it isn't bad on a 240 but the 7 and 9's w/ cam mounted distributors definitely add an element of surprise!

 

Since our last cold snap, my car won't start. No codes come up. Seems like the same symptoms as my Crank Position Sensor, which I replaced last year in a similar cold weather situation. I couldn't find anything that looked out of the ordinary, and have been trying to get at the relay tray. How do you get it out? Very difficult to get at. Fuses look fine. Going to check for spark but thinking that it's fuel related. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

I had a friend with a way dirty air filter. Have you changed that recently? If it's plugged good and with the cold temp fuel enrichment happening, in a cold snap, the car may just pump way too much fuel in to light it up. You may be able to get it running by flooring the car to let a lot of air in. As soon as is starts, let off the gas. If it sputters a bit too it may mean that it's your problem. If you know that your air filter is good, then forget it.

 

It looked good and clean when I checked last. I'll have a look though. Would codes come up if it were a relay problem? I've heard the fuel injector relay, or radio suppression relay can become an issue.

 

The first I'd do, if you haven't done it already, is get a GOOD battery and change the one in the car. This could very well be your problem... Jumping is very unreliable.

 

I got it started the other day with a friend and it seems to start o.k now. Just really flooded I guess, cleaned the plugs and removed the air filter after checking for spark. I'm now getting a 1-2-1 code (faulty AMM?) but it seems to run o.k.