1991 240DL 89k miles with electrical issue
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1991 240DL 89k miles with electrical issue
Hi,
New around here looking for hints. I just rescued from a family member garage a pristine 240dl with 89k miles, but have some electrical issues. The A/C wasn't turning on and the center console lights doesn't turn on. The a/c was tested with a jumper from the battery and works perfectly. Instrument cluster lights woks ok. The a/c relay was bad, a new one was installed and problem persist. There's no voltage on the center console lights cables. Bulbs are ok, continuity its present in all bulbs. All fuses on the rail next to the hood release handle are ok. I just found a ground cable that connects the upper side with the lower side of the firewall in the engine side loosed without a nut in the upper side.
Any chance that this could be the problem?
Any help would be appreciated, im on my way to buy that nut and see what happens. Thank you in advance!
Orlando
New around here looking for hints. I just rescued from a family member garage a pristine 240dl with 89k miles, but have some electrical issues. The A/C wasn't turning on and the center console lights doesn't turn on. The a/c was tested with a jumper from the battery and works perfectly. Instrument cluster lights woks ok. The a/c relay was bad, a new one was installed and problem persist. There's no voltage on the center console lights cables. Bulbs are ok, continuity its present in all bulbs. All fuses on the rail next to the hood release handle are ok. I just found a ground cable that connects the upper side with the lower side of the firewall in the engine side loosed without a nut in the upper side.
Any chance that this could be the problem?
Any help would be appreciated, im on my way to buy that nut and see what happens. Thank you in advance!
Orlando
Last edited by Orlandots; Jul 22, 2020 at 06:25 PM.
no mo volvo
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 11,289
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From: 37 North on the left coast
grounds are real important in ALL electrical systems.
volvo carefully segregated their grounds, so power stuff was grounded at different points than sensitive signal stuff so as to keep electrical noise isolated from the sensitive control circuits.
the AC compressor is controlled by a single wire signal that comes out of the dashboard control box, and goes through a pressure-switch on the side of the reciever/drier, then on to the AC compressor. +12V is compressor on. the pressurestat is supposed to open if there's insufficient refrigerant in the system so the compressor doesn't overheat and fail. you can jumper around the pressure switch to test the compressor but don't leave it that way for too long. on some years there's another high pressure switch in the condensor manifold at the bottom of the radiator stack, this one opens if there is too much pressure, typically because the system is freezing up.
volvo carefully segregated their grounds, so power stuff was grounded at different points than sensitive signal stuff so as to keep electrical noise isolated from the sensitive control circuits.
the AC compressor is controlled by a single wire signal that comes out of the dashboard control box, and goes through a pressure-switch on the side of the reciever/drier, then on to the AC compressor. +12V is compressor on. the pressurestat is supposed to open if there's insufficient refrigerant in the system so the compressor doesn't overheat and fail. you can jumper around the pressure switch to test the compressor but don't leave it that way for too long. on some years there's another high pressure switch in the condensor manifold at the bottom of the radiator stack, this one opens if there is too much pressure, typically because the system is freezing up.
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A/C Electrical Issue
grounds are real important in ALL electrical systems.
volvo carefully segregated their grounds, so power stuff was grounded at different points than sensitive signal stuff so as to keep electrical noise isolated from the sensitive control circuits.
the AC compressor is controlled by a single wire signal that comes out of the dashboard control box, and goes through a pressure-switch on the side of the reciever/drier, then on to the AC compressor. +12V is compressor on. the pressurestat is supposed to open if there's insufficient refrigerant in the system so the compressor doesn't overheat and fail. you can jumper around the pressure switch to test the compressor but don't leave it that way for too long. on some years there's another high pressure switch in the condensor manifold at the bottom of the radiator stack, this one opens if there is too much pressure, typically because the system is freezing up.
volvo carefully segregated their grounds, so power stuff was grounded at different points than sensitive signal stuff so as to keep electrical noise isolated from the sensitive control circuits.
the AC compressor is controlled by a single wire signal that comes out of the dashboard control box, and goes through a pressure-switch on the side of the reciever/drier, then on to the AC compressor. +12V is compressor on. the pressurestat is supposed to open if there's insufficient refrigerant in the system so the compressor doesn't overheat and fail. you can jumper around the pressure switch to test the compressor but don't leave it that way for too long. on some years there's another high pressure switch in the condensor manifold at the bottom of the radiator stack, this one opens if there is too much pressure, typically because the system is freezing up.
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From: GA
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