Will do if I run it!

 

Well, we got the head in today..

CAn't wait to get the car running.












Tomorrow is the day...

 

Good luck!!

 

THanks.

it is still raining though...

time to find an ez-up

 

Who ever did your head did a nice job.

 

THe guys at RSI took care of it. seems to be good so far!

 

Only ran into one problem, though, it really isn't an issue. The new head had a thread hole under the fourth runner for some sensor or something. our old head didn't, so we had to pulg it. NP...

Anyways, The whole processess went very great. Finished it monday, and the car started up first try on the first crank! It made some funny nosie and some high pitched whinning during the first start/idle phase, almost has a knocking sound, but I sware the knocking sound has been there since they got the car. All the other whinning nosies are gone. Drove the car on a 90 miles trip 1 hour after the first start up, and did fantastic!

We checked compression before the first start up, and got some disappointing numbers (#1 120, #2 = 105, #3 = 80, #4 = 115).
We will check after the head is broken in. Those numbers better improve, or we'll be pissed!

Still breaking in the new head, boost was turned done to ~10psi, and we are trying not to load the motor so it will only hit 0psi max for now, keeping revs below 3,200rpms with little throttle.

Crappy pics from tonight:







I really wish it has a new cam now...
And the turbo is going to get replaced sometime next year (found some small cracks, but it still boost great).

Now it is time to start the 244T projects.

 

Congrats!

 

Thanks tech...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1wuUgXk4KU

Audio sounds terrible for some reason...

i will make a better video tomorrow.

 

Doesn't sound bad, typical redblock noises. You DID check valve clearances yes?
Compression on an engine that's been apart is meaningless too, could be any number of reasons compression is down, like lack of oil in the bores etc.
Don't get too worried about the head gasket either, give it a few heat cycles and it'll be as good as it gets!

Regards, Andrew.

 

Did you put any assembly lube on the cam or turn the car over without the plugs in first before starting it?

 

I just listened to the video and went back and read everything. Can you take another compression reading. The one before could have been skewed due to dry rings. But by now it should be ran in a bit. That sound is odd, definitely have a lifter tap. could just be a bucket that hasn't quite ran in. But there is another noise in there. Wish the audio was little better but it sounds like there is a bit of piston slap going on.

 

We actually didn't check the valve clearances. We didn't think we had to since the guys who did the head already adjusted the valve shims. They said they like to shim them around the tighter side of the scale.
We put the oil in the car with out the valve cover on. poured the oil all over the cam and we did turn the motor by hand a few times before starting it.

Will make a new video today....

BTW, what is a normal time line for a new head to be broken in?
The computers seemed to pick everything up pretty quickly. it is still adjusting some things...

 

We broke in new engines in the first 20 miles at BMW. We recommended not beating on the car for the first 1000. When special motors were built we actually had a methodical process for breaking them in. Put the car in first go somewhere where we could keep the car at 2800 to 3000 rpm's for about ten minutes, then shut the motor off and let it fully cool. Start the motor, idles it for about 5 minutes and go out and run it up to 4000 rpms through a couple gears come back idle for 5 minutes, shut it off and allow it to fully cool. Start up again idle 5000 through a few gears idle and let it cool. Then drive it around normal for an hour or two. Pull the valve cover check the torque on the head bolts and other components. Replace the oil, and drive it however you want. BUilt several motors, haven't had one fail yet.

But being that its just the head, it's probably ready after the first few heat cycles.

For the next time you build a motor make sure to coat everything in assembly lube especially under the bearing caps. Just pouring oil over the cam shaft isn't going to allow oil to get under the caps and protect that area. Also with the plugs out turn the motor with the starter (or if you can access the drive shaft on the oil pump spin it with a drill.) for about 30 seconds. Just hand spinning it doesn't pump the oil up there. And there is quite a bit of oil to pump up to get it to the head.

I don' tthink you ruined your block or motor by improper brake in process or anything. I think its been jacked up since it was over heated. If it were me, I would build a new block. But i'm kinda cautious.

 

Thanks for the info. When I build a motor for the 244T, I will keep this in mind.

ohh....When we checked compression, before the first start up, that should have got the oil pumping...

This video still has bad audio. The motor sounds like it use to though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCrusFKsYiU

 

Did they replace the rubber cushions between the valve stems and lifters?
If not that can make it sound like that as well.

 

I believe they replaced everything with new parts except the valve seats...

Have to check the invoice again, but I am sure they did.

 

OK just wanted to make sure.

 

okay

car seems to be running great! only entered the boost zone ~5psi with slight thottle a couple times. nothing hard yet.

 

Cool break it in right.