Is there any one with information or solution as to a DTC 232 on a 1992 240 ? Not too long ago the mass air flow unit was cleaned and a new air filter was installed.

 

I assume you've cleared the code and it comes right back consistently?

if you can find another car with a good compatible MAF, swap them, and see if the problem goes away (or migrates to the other car, hah!).

Ive had mixed results with cleaning them.

but, code 2-3-2 could be lots of things, from funky vacuum hose to a munged up O2 sensor, to clogged injectors, to a failing fuel pressure regulator to the MAF.

it even could be the engine temperature sensor (ECT), if thats reading too far off when the engine warms up, the LH2.4 brain will think its still cold and be dumping too much fuel in.

 

I mentioned I cleaned MAF, it was the throttle body, which was causing the engine to shut down during warmed up hot summer days. Talking to a Volvo parts man who owns a 93, it seems that likely its the O2 sensor as you mentioned. The price I was given was $250 for the sensor, is there a good aftermarket supplier or cheaper vender that can be recommended? I think I shall be testing or just replacing the ECT sensor first. Which ever is cheaper.

 

no way a redblock o2 sensor is anything close to $250. thats more like dealer price installed after overcharging you for labor. if you're willing to splice the wires, they are like $60 for a generic Bosch 3-wire sensor , if you get the Bosch sensor with the Volvo harness ready to plug in, they are about $140. and the 240's is pretty easy to access and install.

Oxygen Sensor

 

$250 for a sensor? Is that installed or just the sensor? Either way that's a bit pricey.

I have a 1993 240 wagon, I was getting the 2-3-1 code, which was running rich/lean. I narrowed it down to the O2 sensor. I got a Bosch O2 sensor on Rockauto.com for $80, FCPEuro (my new favorite) has the same one for $79. I did it myself and I'm a novice to intermediate. If the O2 sensor is in the catalytic converter like mine was, unhook the harness (follow the wires back to the firewall and then they come up to the engine on the passenger side on the firewall), unscrew the sensor, screw the new on back in run the wires the back the same way, plug it in and good to go. Only real issue is they can be a pain to unscrew, a wrench is fine but the lip on the converter can make it awkward. I went to Harbor Freight, got an offset 22mm O2 socket (has a cutout for the wires so it can go on and the offset gets it over that lip) and it popped right out with a breaker bar.

Believe me if I can do it, its not that hard. Not even an hour start to finish (for me anyway), most of that was pumping my ancient jack to get the car up.

 

Just ordered with free shipping from FCPgroton
Volvo 240 Oxygen Sensor

May have to wait a few days but that's do-able. Thank you Pierce.

 

The car has over 103k on it, I know I have not changed it and its possible it may be original. I am pretty handy and have done various rebuilds on various autos. I just ordered from FCP for 79.77 with a one year warranty, original fit. I may have an O2 sensor socket in the garage. Thank you Nuclearseal for the helpful and encouraging reply.

 

I don't think I've ever had to change an o2 sensor on any of my cars until they are up around 200k miles... wait, no, our 1991 Mercedes 300E 2.6 only has 56k miles (long story, but it sat for years undriven), and its O2 sensor was showing up as 'slow' in a test so I changed it (really really easy on that car), was one of many things that made the car run a little better, as when we got it, it was running really rough and frequently stalling at stops.

 

JFK area of NY. Stop and go traffic. Majorily weekend shopping used. Car sat for maybe up to a year or two also, had a parasitic electrical drain. What would be the DTC for a worn gas cap gasket?

 

I don't think these old cars had the sensors to check for gas tank vacuum, thats a newer OBD-II thing. here in California, when I smog test my older cars, they put the cap on a vacuum tester, and they put a vacuum tester on the gas tank (both with appropriate adapters)

 

Update to this 92 Volvo 240 dilema. The O2 sensor was changed and car driven home with the check engine light uncleared and no performance problem. Today before using it attempted to manually clear codes which would not so had to pull negative cable from battery. Check engine light went out. Upon trying to use the car that came home from repair garage with no incident, it now after pulling battery cable and having CE light out will not idle properly and is shutting down. Read in book that system is adaptive and car should be run for ten minutes to heat lup, did that and idle seems to have smoothed itself somewhat. Now checking DTC its displaying 1-1-3 fuel injectors. Is this a typical behavior of an elderly 240, one problem begats another? Can I flush system with say fuel cleaner before changing injectors now?

 

multiple problems is typical of any old car thats been neglected for a long time. properly maintained, a old volvo redbrick is a very reliable car. if the codes didn't clear when you followed the reset procedure, you likely were doing something wrong.

follow the 'erase codes' procedure here exactly.
Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes

to wit, key off, jumper in position #2, key on, press button for 2 seconds, read code, repeat til code repeats in case there's multiple codes. then press button for over 5 seconds, release, LED should ligth, press button AGAIN for over 5 seconds, LED should go out and code should be cleared. press button for 2 seconds, code should read 1-1-1. key off, jumper in position #6 and repeat the above sequence.

if you're having lots of electrically related problems under the hood, I'd be carefully inspecting the engine wiring harness for brittle/cracked insulation. we've never had any such problems with our 400,000 mile 1987 240, but its a california coastal car, and has always lived in a mild climate.