1992 240 GL intermittent starting issue
Hey Gang!
My beautiful 92 240 GL (standard transmission) has been giving me starting problems. I recently replaced the ignition switch,battery, and starter.
Sometimes the car won't start. It makes the clicking sound and nothing else happens. Usually this happens in the morning. Oddly enough, the thing that always makes it start is if I connect jumper cables to the battery and to another vehicle. The other vehicle must be running for this to work.
Is there a relay causing this? Thanks so much!!
Doug
My beautiful 92 240 GL (standard transmission) has been giving me starting problems. I recently replaced the ignition switch,battery, and starter.
Sometimes the car won't start. It makes the clicking sound and nothing else happens. Usually this happens in the morning. Oddly enough, the thing that always makes it start is if I connect jumper cables to the battery and to another vehicle. The other vehicle must be running for this to work.
Is there a relay causing this? Thanks so much!!
Doug
have you tested the battery and charging system?
my first pass test is to measure the battery cold voltage (after sitting and before trying to crank), if the battery is fully charged it should be about 12.6V at 'room temperature'
then I start the car, and check the battery charging voltage at idle with all accessories switched off, it should be about 1.2V higher than the cold reading.
when you switch on the ignition, the battery/alternator light on the dashboard MUST COME ON. when the engine is started, that light MUST GO OUT (sometimes it takes a throttle blip to make it go out, thats ok). that battery/alternator light is a key part of the alternator charging circuit, it provides the 'bootstrap' current to the alternator field coil via the D+ circuit on the alternator, this allows the alternator to start generating electricity.
if you're not seeing the charging voltage, its quite possible you just need a new voltage regulator, get a real Bosch one, they simply bolt onto the back of the alternator.
my first pass test is to measure the battery cold voltage (after sitting and before trying to crank), if the battery is fully charged it should be about 12.6V at 'room temperature'
then I start the car, and check the battery charging voltage at idle with all accessories switched off, it should be about 1.2V higher than the cold reading.
when you switch on the ignition, the battery/alternator light on the dashboard MUST COME ON. when the engine is started, that light MUST GO OUT (sometimes it takes a throttle blip to make it go out, thats ok). that battery/alternator light is a key part of the alternator charging circuit, it provides the 'bootstrap' current to the alternator field coil via the D+ circuit on the alternator, this allows the alternator to start generating electricity.
if you're not seeing the charging voltage, its quite possible you just need a new voltage regulator, get a real Bosch one, they simply bolt onto the back of the alternator.
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