1992 Volvo 245 Ran Fine, Died, Won't Start Again, No Error Codes

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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 05:08 PM
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Default 1992 Volvo 245 Ran Fine, Died, Won't Start Again, No Error Codes

My car has had regular maintenance since new. A week ago it was driving along and instantly died. After 3-5 minutes it started and has been fine until now when the same exact thing happened.

There are no error codes.

Less than 10k miles ago it had new spark plugs, distributor cap, plug wires, new Bosch fuel injectors, crank position sensor, fuel filters, air filter. The fuses and fuse box were cleaned, connectors to amm, CPS, etc have been cleaned.

I hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key. The battery is a year old and fully charged. The engine cranks over fine, but never starts.

I'm out of ideas and my car is miles from home, parked on a street. Any thoughts of what to check?

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 08:58 PM
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From: GA
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What fuel injection system do you have. It could be the old CIS or the newer electronic injection system?

(early car had CIS, later the cars had an air mass meter with electronic injectors, that was only for that one year!)
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 11:04 PM
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I have the LH 2.4 electronic system. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 08:20 PM
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From: GA
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Do you have fuel pressure? Do you have spark? (if no spark)

The ignition amp is a failure point. Have replaced a few. Bad connections inside or outside - moving the connector has made some cars start.


 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 05:18 PM
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I have no spark.

What's your thoughts on testing the ignition amplifier?
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 08:40 AM
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From: GA
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Originally Posted by Build
I have no spark.
What's your thoughts on testing the ignition amplifier?
I (or any of my techs) never found a test for that amp. It does not set any codes either. We would test with a known good part. - after checking connections, power and ground to all related components, wiggling wires at the amp while trying to start, making sure there was no pulse at the coil with a test light, making sure the injectors are firing (that would mean the crank sensor is working), etc.

I'm sure if you knew what the inputs were you could test all of them - but it was so much quicker to just plug a replacement in!


 
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