ok i just overcame a just problem with my whole fuel system and now i am throwing a 2-2-3 idle air control valve signal missing or faulty. what should i do?

i am only throwing a 2-2-3 the car is having a hard start, i can get it to start a little and then it starts acting up. rough idle, hard idle, doesnt want to go. ect

can someone lead me in some kind of direction, the iacv are very expensive on the regina so replacing the part is kinda only possible if i know for sure that that will fix the problem.

 

So, your hard starting problem continues then?

 

well it was fixed until today and out of the blue the car started acting crazy.

i dont feel the IACV buzz or humm when i unplug and plug back in the iacv the plunger goes in and out/ shuts but i still dont feel any buzzing with ignition in the on position.

 

When i unplug the IACV and try to start the car it starts, it idles better but its not 100%

When i plug the IACV back in and try to start the car it Doesnt Start it tries but does not start.

and again when i plug and unplug the iacv the plunger goes in and then closes shut,no humming or buzzing from the IACV at all.

can anyone help me out, this is my only car and i need it back into operable condition.

 

Did you ever change that Coolant Temp. Sensor?

 

no because when i fixed the quick release main line connector at the fuel tank assembly it stopped all of the starting problems and it started on the first crank. all starting issues stopped.

now i have 2-2-3 code and i am continuing to get that code i clear it, get it again.

would the coolant temp sensor throw a 2-2-3 code?

 

i pulled off the rotor cap and button and they both were worn so i am replacing those. i dont imagine this is going to fix anything, however being worn our also isnt going to help anything either.

 

i installed the rotor cap and button, thank you sweds for creating the most awkward backwards engine possible.

anyhow i installed the part and it still doesnt start.

when i unplug the IACV the car starts right up, and idles its not driveable, but it idles, then i go to the engine bay and plug the IACV in and BOOM the engine cuts straight off.

is it safe to say the iacv is toast?

 

Throwing code

2-2-3-idle air control valve
2-3-3- idle valve closed
2-2-1- oxygen sensor not orerating lean at part throttle faulty O2 or air intake leak

Replaced:
Distributor cap
Rotor cap
Spark plugs twice
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Fuel filter o rings
Fuel pressure regulator o rings top and bottom
Idle air control valve
Exhaust manifold gaskets

Radio supression relay working
Fan relay working
Fuel pump relay working checked with spare also
All fuses are good
#1 fuse is good
#11 fuse Is good
Checked all fuel lines for cracks or leaks
Checked all vacuum lines for cracks or leaks
All injectors are firing
Getting good spark at coil
Getting good spark at plug wires
Checked map connection
Checked map hoses
Cleaned air intake box
Cleaned air intake hoses
Cleaned air intake filter
Cleaned icv hoses
Cleaned iacv connector
Cleaned throttle body through and through
Throttle switch clicks at a minute amount of throttle opening
Throttle switch clicks again for wide open throttle


Not throwing any other codes I am completely stumped I went over the engine with a fine tooth comb either the O2 sensor isn't working causing a lean idle. Or something is going on I mean I checked and checked and rechecked everything.

I did notice that with the iacv unplugged and the O2 sensor unplugged no difference was made in how the car was running. However this isn't explaining the iacv codes.

I also unplugged the positive side and let the fuel trim relearn its self and tried starting the car still nothing.

 

Certainly unplugging the oxygen sensor will put the computer in open loop mode - which means it uses a predefined fuel map (and will throw a code). I'm not sure if unplugging the IAC will do the same or not.

Have you checked your IAC to verify it is operating properly? I did a quick google search on bench testing the IAC and came up with this:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo...iac_valve.html

 

So i replaced the intake manifold, Hooked everything up, its a back breaking job jesus, i mean its easy but man my back hurts.

so i am still just getting a 2-2-3 code i didnt replace the intake manifold thinking the 2-2-3 would disapear. it was old and needed replacing.

i cannot now get the car to start at all with the iacv plugged in or not, i checked and rechecked everything and still cannot find out why its not starting or anything.

 

Ok so today I replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor. Thus helped the car start however it was just a ***** in the chain. It was a problem but not THE problem. Before replacing the cps the car would not start at all didn't even try to just cranked and cranked so one problem down on to the next.

I got my hands on a multimeter today and I checked the tps.

I unplugged the sensor and I put the ground wire to the sender so and positive to the batter positive and got 12.44v. So that is good

Next I checked the harness voltage put ground to ground terminal and positive to signal wire and I got 4.99v. So that is good

Next I turn the ignition key on but engine not started and I plugged in the tps connector and I inserted ground and I inserted positive onto the signal wire. I got .045 volts I go to turn the throttle and it jump straight up to 5 volts. I check it again a same thing. It doesn't graduate in voltages like .045 1 volt 1.5volts 2 3 4 5 it just went from half a volt straight to 5

So this leads me to believe that the tps is gone like the wind.